Question about GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

My Ge Profile double oven JTP56 constantly displays "door locked." When I try to run a clean cycle in the upper oven it just continues flashing, and when I try the same with the lower oven, the display reads "F3" Any ideas? Thanks, John

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  • 5 more comments 
  • johndullahan Apr 15, 2009

    Hi Ginko,


    The display has been flashing "locked door" for a few days now.  It was unconnected to a cleaning cycle and persisted despite cutting power for extended and repeated periods.  This morning, after cutting power all night, there was initially no display at all, then all numbers flashed for a while before it went back to flashing "locked door."   


    I tried running cleaning cycles, but both ovens now signal "err" when I do so, and when I try bake, it won't respond.  There is now no indication of "F3" as displayed yesterday.  


    If you recommend replacing a sensor as a possible solution, can you provide a more detailed description of the sensor (to help find it among the many parts listed in the parts list/diagram available on your site)?  I would also appreciate any hints about how to locate and replace the defective part.  (I am pretty adept at fixing appliances)


    Thanks,
                John D. 

  • johndullahan Apr 15, 2009

    Ginko,


    Thanks for your prompt and detailed response.  Yes, I can read your comments fine, and would really like to have a detailed description of the possible defective sensor.  


    Thanks again,
                         John

  • johndullahan Apr 16, 2009

    Ginko,


    Thanks for the detailed instructions for locating the sensor, as well as the link to the part.  However, I think you may be thinking of a different model - I can't find anything to the lower left of either oven.  I did find circular vents on the left front roofs of both ovens, and what appears to be a sensor on the right front roof of the top oven. It is held by two screws and when removed it looks like a 3/8" diameter pipe about 2.3 inches long, held in with two screws, and when removed, the green and orange wires are connected to the front and back of the pipe.  A small black protrusion in the rear appears to be the actual sensor.  


    In addition, the back walls of both ovens have protruding 3.5" probes/sensors.


    My model is a GE Profile JTP56.


    Thanks again for your patience,
                                                   John  

  • johndullahan Apr 16, 2009

    There is only one of these open pipe sensors and it's in the upper oven roof  (the same spot in the lower oven has a blank cover held with one screw).  I noticed broken portions of white insulator inside.  So if I should replace this one could you provide a link? (As you did for the below-referenced different sensor)


    Two other types of visible sensors in both ovens are on the upper part of the back walls - straight, about 3" long, closed, and appear to match the sensor part you said I needed and provided a link: part number 252959 (in an earlier exchange) 


    Should I replace both of them as well as the pipe sensor referenced in the first para above?


    Thanks,
                 John

  • johndullahan Apr 16, 2009

    I am impressed with the rapid response and the detailed and helpful nature of your advice.


    I initially didn't provide the full model number because I was unsure of the letters after JTP56.  I just looked carefully with a flashlight and here it is:  JTP56AOW1AA  (The O could be a 0 and the 1 could be an I) 


    In addition to the elongated identical sensors, should I also replace the (open pipe type) one in the top oven roof?


    Gratefully,
                     John

  • johndullahan Apr 16, 2009

    Thanks so much for for your patience and extremely helpful advice (especially the link to the parts).  I ordered the two sensors, which don't appear too difficult to replace (The upper (convection) oven has a cover over the fan which will have to be removed.)


    Thanks again,
                          John D. 

  • johndullahan Apr 16, 2009

    I have been extremely impressed and satisfied with the patience and professional advice over a series of extended email exchanges. The link to the needed replacement parts was provided, precluding the necessity of trying to locate them myself. I unequivocally recommend this service to all needing assistance with errant appliances.

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI, here's a break down of your issue and also an few causes and solutions to this problem.

F3 - F4 Open oven temperature sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven temperature sensor. Could be a result of:
· contamination on terminals
· pinched wire in oven temperature sensor circuit
· cold solder joint on control. · Disconnect power to range and remove oven temperature sensor connector from control.
· Measure oven temperature sensor resistance at oven temperature sensor connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72 degrees F).
· Measure each oven temperature sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor circuit.
· Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace.
If all above is ok replace control.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 8 more comments 
  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 15, 2009

    Here is a direct link to the oven temp sensor below.

    CLICK TO VIEW THE OVEN SENSOR


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 15, 2009

    Ok, this sensor is located inside each oven(upper and lower). the location of the housing is to the left lower hand side of each oven once you open the door. When opening the upper and lower door, just look to your left lower hand side. the housing may be brown because of regular heating during usage. the actual sensor that you will be inspecting is located inside the housing. the sensor will have a good size braided wire that is connected to a connector that is running to the control board. i would inspect these wires for weld marks on the connector ends.

    remember, you will have to replace both oven sensors. there are two that run to the control board. I have provided a link to a picture of the sensor housing in the previous comment posted.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    OK, the 3/8" diameter pipe about 2.3 inches long, held in with two screws is what you are looking for. this is the sensor housing and there should be one in each oven. my diagram was upside down. i apologize for the confusion. you will need to replace the sensors and wire connectors as well.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    Ok, concerning the last comment you posted. the last paragraph was dead on. the two 3 inch long housings are the sensors. there is a sensor kit that you can buy that has everything you will need for this repair in one box and it can be purchased on line at the link i provide earlier. the actual part number for the sensors at hand is WB23X5340. you will need to replace both sensors in each oven. If you can please give me your complete model number, i can assist you more thoroughly. the part number that you have given me is missing four letters and one number(5 digits total missing). once i receive the entire model number, i can give you a run down on the parts at hand.


    Model number example ---
    JTP56AA1AA


    CLICK TO SEE THE SENSOR WITHOUT THE HOUSING.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    Most model numbers are found on the center of the vent trim near the door and inside the door on the front face. they can also be printed on tags located inside the oven or on the back of this unit.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    OK, there is no need to replace the open pipe on the top of the oven. the main sensors are the focal point. now, if the ceramic insulators are not operational, they may need to be replaced but, its not important at this point. I have located a sensor kit. i will post a link to the page. there are no images of this kit but, its the correct model

    i will also place a links to the GE website were you can also order the sensors directly from there as well. you will have to order two sensors from the GE site. The links are below.

    CLICK FOR GE UPPER BODY SENSOR

    CLICK FOR GE LOWER BODY SENSOR

    CLICK HERE FOR THE SENSOR KIT.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    OK, i have located another site that has genuine GE parts as well. the link is below.

    CLICK HERE FOR A DIRECT LINK TO THE PARTS STORE FOR THE INDIVIDUAL SENSOR PURCHASE.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    I would personally recommend the kit on the repair clinic website link.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    The two previous GE links appear to be broken. I do apologize for that.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Apr 16, 2009

    Good deal. this will defiantly restore your situation.

    Please rate and god bless:)


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  • GE Master
  • 19,396 Answers

F3 is Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor


That happens after a self cleaning cycle, usually because temp probe is stuck or broken.

To start cut power for ten minutes by tripping the circuit breaker.Also allow the oven cooling down completely.

Connect back and hit cancel button.

If the door does not unlock, you will have to undo door lock, and replace the oven temperature sensor to solve the F3 problem.

You can find all parts and diagram for the oven here.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Apr 15, 2009

    Hi John , you probably have a faulty temp probe, check also connection to element , test element for continuity and control board.

    Please, let me know if you can read my comments, I can give you parts and more detailed instructions.I think I have been locked out.

    Thanks


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