Question about Whirlpool GR2SHKXKS Top Freezer Refrigerator

6 Answers

IS THE COMPRESSOR THE PROBLEM?

Refer stopped cooling problem not electrical is it worth fixing?

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  • SNGMAN4 Apr 15, 2009

    thank you...pulled out a good deal of wool from the back and front of the evaporator...fans are both working...uncovered the coils in the freezer...not cold...felt compressor... no hum...hear the occasional click from the compressor area and when i cut power to the appliance heard a click a few seconds later. ??

  • SNGMAN4 Apr 15, 2009

    i guess i mean condensor coil were woolly...the ones down low in the unit near the compressor

  • SNGMAN4 Apr 15, 2009

    WOULD A COMPRESSOR START KIT FIX MY PROBLEM?

  • SNGMAN4 Apr 15, 2009

    your advice takes me back to my original question...is this 8 yr old unit worth fixing? the compressor is 200 bucks plus plus

  • SNGMAN4 Apr 16, 2009

    for 318 dollars i would have several duplicate parts the it looks to me and why the tank?

  • SNGMAN4 Apr 16, 2009

    thank you, i am very busy with other things right now and lucky for me i have a working back-up but i will do the things you suggest in the next couple of days and i think i will order the start kit and cap. i appreciate the advice and i will let you know what happens.

  • SNGMAN4 Apr 17, 2009

    you must be talking to someone else

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6 Answers

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I think ur compressor problem .the solution is replace the compressor

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

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To correct this problem, unplug the appliance and disconnect the water supply. Remove the water line where it enters the valve--usually at the bottom edge of the unit. Locate the wire strainer and remove it. Clean the strainer with a stiff brush, using mild household detergent. Reassemble the component in reverse fashion.

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

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If you can describe the problem in detail maybe I can offer an opinion.

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

  • Farley Redfield
    Farley Redfield Apr 16, 2009

    I have a better grasp of your problem reading the previous posts. Let me answer your question this way. Are you positive the compressor will not start. Allow me to give you some hope and maybe save your refg.

    If a compressor is tight due to linear expansion from heat a tip worth
    remembering is as something cools it contracts, except for water at freezing. A
    few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12
    hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
    and sometimes as long as 24 hours may have expanded parts from heat. About 1/2
    the time it is ok after new start components are installed with a start
    capacitor and relay. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then
    stop again. A “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the
    compressor, and stopping on this hard spot it can’t overcome the “tightness”.








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    If your wondering how to check out your refrigeration
    compressor;


    Modern Compressors have two operations that have to work
    together just to run. More items must be considered for them to work and work
    efficiently in systems. The 2 areas that must work together are electrical and
    mechanical. IF Either your compressor is mechanically broken inside or the motor and or start
    components are not working properly with the motor electric side, sorry, it is compressor time..





    Electrical


    Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to
    each other.


    1. If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad. If
    not go on to the next step.


    2.Your readings between the compressor terminals should all
    be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.


    Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
    close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
    couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals. If you get only
    2 readings don’t panic wait 24 hours for the motor to cool off for sure and
    recheck it. If still no reading then your compressor motor is open. A new
    compressor or replacement of the appliance is required. If you now get the 3
    readings described make a diagram you feel comfortable with as to where the
    wires go to each component before removing anything, then continue:


    3 Assuming the above checks out: Get a new *Start relay *start
    capacitor if so equipped relay *external overload and *run capacitor if it has
    one. In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or
    terminals on the compressor or wiring per your diagram and replace them on to
    the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing
    the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have
    to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it
    AC or Refrigeration.(all these parts will be less than $30 to $100 and its sure worth the try for a compressor)





    *May or May NOT have this component:


    *Start Relay:


    MOST 99.999…% of refrigerators of the household type have a
    start relay of some kind and they vary in size shape and color. It plugs directly
    onto the compressor. SOME AC units but not all have one and it is different.
    These Resemble a box about 2”X2” X 3” with at least 3 terminals on it and these
    3 terminals are marked 1, 2, & 5. Each of these will have at least 1 wire
    on them and there may be other terminals (4 & 6) as well that can be used
    with several wires on each.


    * Start Capacitor


    100% of AC and Commercial compressors that use a start relay (and remember some do not have one but those
    that do…) and only some domestic refrigerators use a Start Capacitor. At least
    2 wires going to a black (usually) cylinder which is the start capacitor. Start
    Capacitors ALWAYS HAVE 2 or more Wires and ALWAYS HAVE TO HAVE A START RELAY.


    *External Overload


    MOST 99.9% of Household refrigerators, 80%+ of smaller commercial
    refrigerators, and most 90% of window unit AC’s but almost no central AC
    compressors Have an external overload. Those that do not have an internal
    overload. These vary in size and color and description a basic one is round 2
    wires and generally black about quarter size USA AND IF USED ALWAYS MOUNTED ON
    THE COMPRESSOR with the other wires and terminals there.


    *Run Capacitor


    Some domestic refrigerators (can be a small rectangular box)
    medium and larger refrigeration and (99.999%... of all) AC central and Window
    units have a compressor that requires a run capacitor. These type units also
    have a fan motor that can require a run capacitor. These Capacitors always have
    at least 2 wires and often 3 or more if the capacitor also is wired to the fan
    motor.


    .

    If a compressor is tight due to linear expansion from heat a tip worth
    remembering is as something cools it contracts, except for water at freezing. A
    few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12
    hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
    and sometimes as long as 24 hours may have expanded parts from heat. About 1/2
    the time it is ok after new start components are installed with a start
    capacitor and relay. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then
    stop again. A “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the
    compressor, and stopping on this hard spot it can’t overcome the “tightness”.





    If you follow most of these steps above you will arrive at a
    correct diagnosis well over 90% of the time ( allowing for what is unusual or
    for misunderstandings)



    30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed..


    Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify
    anything you don’t understand.





  • Farley Redfield
    Farley Redfield Apr 16, 2009

    When you say "problem is not electrical" I assume you mean the power to the fridge is OK. Now check power on to the compressor. The problem may be electrical with in the refrigerator.

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HI, here are the components that are needed to repair this unit.


Run capacitor, compressor $41.40
Start relay, compressor $29.60
Relay and overload, compressor $32.75
Start device, compressor $35.40
Compressor tank $179.75


Total price for these commpressor kit components will be $318.90

If you can find a replacement fridge that is less than $318.90, i would buy it. If not, it would make since to purchase a compressor kit.


Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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Hi,

After analysing the various troubleshooting done and the symptoms provided its practically logical to go ahead and replace the compressor.

Thanks

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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Here is a great link to a few tips on how to fix the issues. I have had this problem once myself before and the solution about cleaning the coils fixed me :)

http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Hope this can fix you-

If none of those fix it for you then you are probably looking at a relay problem with i would estimate about 50-75$ for the part and probably 150-200$ for the labor of a repairman

Please Rate

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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