After about 1 year of use, the deck does not close correctly. After powering on, it goes down, up and off. A few weeks back this started and after 3 or four times it would come on and work. Now it just keeps powereing off.
I've seen the same problem posted here and elsewhere many times, yet I have not found a solution.
Any suggestions short of throwing it off a bridge would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Kenwood MP925 cant get to work
The ribbon cable to the face plate needs replaced. It's an easy fix and any shop that does car audio repairs will likely have them in stock (mine does). Every shop has their own rates but my shop charges around $65-75 to fix that problem. Call around and ask. The bad part is:
J84-0153-05 FLEX-RIBBON CABLE FROM FACE TO MAIN PCB
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What model and is there something in the way of the tape. Often times if a belt fails or a cam system gets stuck the head base can not
retract and then the door can not open or close correctly- do not force it as the parts will break.
Adjust the position of the door by using the black and purple
buttons. Black moves the door UP (open) and purple moves
the door DOWN (close)
Setting the up position:
1. Press and hold the black button until the LED starts flashing
slowly, then release.
2. Push and hold the black button until the door reaches the
desired UP (open) position
3. Push the door control or programmed remote control. This
sets the Up (open) position and begins closing the door.
4. Immediately when the door begins to close press and release
the black or purple button. This will stop the door
Setting the Down position:
5. Push and hold the purple button until the door reaches the
desired DOWN (Closed) position.
6. Once the door is closed, If there appears to be too much
pressure on the door, you may toggle the door back and forth
using the black and purple buttons to reach the desired closed
7. Push the door control or programmed remote control. This
sets the Down (closed) limit and the door should open.
The problem is in the power supply inverter board, caused by bad capacitors. To have it repaired by a professional will be costly and consideration should be given replacing the monitor, "average life span 3 to 5 years" in most cases.
There are 2 lines from the fuel tank on my 359. The one with the fuel filter on the bottom goes to the carburetor. The second goes back down through the plastic housing and appears to be capped off underneath, probably a vent.
Illustration J shows 2 lines. http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/USA/2006/I06000/I0601077.pdf
Below the carburetor the is a u shaped hose both connections are within 3/4' of one another below the carburetor. I think it is pn 537 24 65-01 on detail G. HTH
Your serial number is the key to the correct IPL for you saw.
sn 06 1500198.
06 - year made (single digit prior to 2000)
15 - week made (mid March)
00198 - 198th unit produced by Husky that week.
Next time keep the carburetor up...tipping it down will allow oil to go where it's not supposed to. For now drain out the remaining oil, replace the air cleaner and remove the spark plug. When the plug is out pull the engine over a few times. It's possible that there is oil in the cylinder and this will help clear it out. Replace with a new plug and try. If this doesn't work, repost.
Hello. This kind of sounds like the loading deck is a few teeth out of time. In other words the tape is not fully dropping down. When the drives start pulling at it the first few minutes of playing it probably seats down a little further and a little further until it finally bottoms out and seats correctly. This I have seen before. The timing issue can result from pushing a tape in a little hard at times instead of letting the loader pull it in itself after it makes its first switch. At some point the loading deck went out a tooth or two and has remained that way ever since. Putting one of these loading decks back in "time" provided there is not any damage to the loading gears should be handled by someone experienced with this. If your familiar with gearing it would simply be a matter of marking the gears when you "trick it" to load a tape. The metal tape retainer should hit bottom when it drops in. When you start your re-timing process you only go one tooth at a time until you finally get it to hit bottom. You should not go a tooth more because you may cause damage to the main gear or one of the others. Good-luck and hope this helps.