How do i know if my graphite motor brushes are ok?
I'm not sure if my motor brushes are the problem that makes my K45 mixer noisy and smoke, how do i tell? I took them out and they're half black and half copper-colored.. Are they supposed to be all one color?
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Re: How do i know if my graphite motor brushes are ok?
If you have some length on the brushes they sound OK. If they're getting short they may need replacing because they're not making full contact all the time and may be arching. Your problem may also be in the gearbox. May need new grease and have the gears, shafts and bearings checked for excessive wear.
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the K45 was introduced in 1962 and ran until 1978 when the K45SS was introduced. You have an open circuit inside, you need to open the machine from the rear and look to the power cord connections. make sure that the wires are connected and none are floating loose. the next step would be to replace the speed control switch. then check your carbon brushes if either one of the brushes are down to the nubs then it would cause a short when you turned it on, if that is the case then be glad that you have breakers and not fuses because you would have fried your motor. the speed control switch has no power attached to it. ifg the problem still exist after checking power cord, speed control plate and brushes then you have a fried armature or stator either can short the system if they have a burned wire inside especially the stator. let us know how you fare on this after you check out the first easy steps, we can help with the harder fix also.
is it a K45 or a K45SS? If it is a K45 you will have to replace the filters inside and probably the speed control plate, if it is a K45SS then you need a new phase control board. The K45 is pre 1978 and the K45SS is post 1978. Your information is correct on pre 1978 K45 models that the capacitor is bad, but it might be cheaper to go garage sale hunting and find a second machine as the parts are no longer made and having spares on hand may be a significant advantage in the future, also there are a great many of the K45SS parts that will also repair the K45 mixer so it may not be a practical solution. Watch ebay regularly for K45 parts, they come up every couple of months. On the parts diagram also look for the K5 diagram as it is identical to the K45, one is a 5 quart mixer and the other one is 4.5 quart, same parts same motor same everything.
Check to see if the motor brushes are worn or not sliding freely; you can do this without taking the mixer apart. On either side of the main mixer body, you should see a plastic screw-cap ~1/4" diameter. Take each off, and you should find a small black graphite (ish) chamfered block connected to the end of the spring. If the block is damaged, or even stuck when trying to pull it out, that's your problem.
That is what happened to me. To fix, I used a pin to pry out the stuck brush/spring, then scraped around the inside to remove sticky debris. Also, I used a utility knife and gently shaved the sides of the block, so they'd slide more easily. After a few tests for smooth sliding, I reinstalled e brushes and the motor spins as normal. Best part: it was a FREE fix, and I didn't have to disassemble much!
Do a search on YouTube for "kitchen aid mixer brushes", and you should find a helpful video from 'ereplacement parts'. Good luck!
You will also want to pay attention to the side of the brushed that are angled as they only go in one way. You will have to look inside the brush hole and make sure you put the angle to the same side as the angle on the inside of the hole and everything should work just fine.
What everyone is forgetting or they just don't know is that...The K45 introduced by Hobart in 1962 and was replaced in 1978 by the K45SS are two completely different machines. With completely different wiring systems. The K45 is wired together with wire nuts and the K45SS used connectors on the Speed control switch. All of the websites posted above are for the K45SS (Stands for Solid State) The manual for he K45SS is easy to get from Kitchenaid as the mixer electronics did not change from it's introduction in 1978 to 1986 when Hobart sold the Kitchenaid division to Whirlpool. The K45 on the other hand is a product and property of Hobart NOT Whirlpool or the Kitchenaid division of Whirlpool. The K45 Manual ... well I just can't find one! They way wires are routed is totally different in the K45 from the K45SS so the diagram in the K45SS manual does not help. Also the brushes in the K45 were square not camphor-ed like they are in the K45SS so there is no right or wrong way to insert the brushes in a K45. Whereas; in the K45SS there are four ways to insert the brushes in their holder and three of them are wrong. The K45SS brushes go into a completely different brush holder than the K45. The K45SS is the same today in 2012 as it was in 1978. The K45 is the same only from 1962 when Hobart introduced it to 1978 when it was replaced with the new Solid State model. prior to 1962 it was the K4-A model and it was different entirely. So if the people asking for help say their mixer is a K45 we should be asking for clarification as to a K45 or a K45SS.
Hi JIM, Happy New Year! From the symptoms you describe of your sister’s mixer it appears there are a couple of issues that need to be addressed. Issue #1, when your sister found the loose governor counterweights that should have been a clue that the governor needs to be replaced. The counterweights should not come off the governor.From your description that you “put everything back together, the actual mixer runs (but a little too fast on slow)” is an indicator that although everything went back together, the governor is still not functioning properly, so it still should be replaced. Issue #2, which concerned you more, was “the arcing that is constant on the actual contact points that turn the motor on and off.” The contact points you refer to are the mixer’s electric motor brushes, and although arcing continuously occurs (that’s why the mixer head gets hot during heavy usage) under normal operation, it may be time to inspect and replace the mixer’s brushes; the more worn the brushes, the greater the arcing, which makes it more noticeable while more heat is produced. Before going too much further, be sure to have your Parts List Manual on hand, too.If you don’t have the original you can easily download a PDF version from the KA website: (http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home). Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals& Guides> and enter the 6 character model number, KSM150P and select the file: KSM150PSWH0.pdf (773.44 KB) listed for your model that appears under Parts List (61). Check to see that this matches your sister’s mixer model. Turn to pages 8 & 9, titled “Motor And Control Parts” which provide an exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of the mixer’s motor and electrical control components.Locate Illus. Nos. 29 and 19, Governor Assembly and Carbon Brush, respectively.These are the parts that I would replace – one governor and two carbon brushes. As far as parts go, here are four potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com.Prices for the same part can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping. Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble and reassemble your mixer. If you feel troubleshooting and repairing is beyond your capability, then I would seek out a local small appliance repair shop in your area. KA Customer Care can give you names of local KA authorized repair shops in your area, but you can also do an online search to supplement what KA may provide you. Call to explain your circumstances and find out their hourly rate and get an estimate of what they think it would cost to repair your mixer. Also, always obtain three or more estimates – do some comparison shopping. Good luck and have fun. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA If this solution has been helpful, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln
If it started to smoke out the back it may just be the motor brush.There are several parts available online I have included one site of many HERE There are a lot of parts sites available you may want to find one close to you.You can check your brushes before you order replacement ones by unscrewing the large black screws on each side of the mixer if there is not much left of the metal portion on the end of the spring that's the problem.Hope this helps you.
Zaczac, There are two probable causes for this. One is that the insulation in the motor has broken down. This is definitely an unsafe condition, and unless you are a motor repair specialist there is nothing you can do. The other cause is an accumulation of graphite around the brush holders. Fixing this would require pulling down the motor and cleaning the graphite away. This usually happens with motors that have done a lot of work. It is normal that by the time the brushes have worn so much that the dust causes shorting the motor needs to be serviced.
Read this to understand what is required to pull the motor down and to reset the speed control:
There is the possibility that if the mixer is 30 years old and it has never been serviced that the gasket around the gear case is leaking oil and in that case it would not be hard to get liquids on the armature or the stator as the gear grease in the transmission is vegetable base grease and it separates into liquids and solid and when the head is tilted up the failed gasket allows the separated oil to leak down and to the rear onto the mixer right onto the motor parts. It maybe nothing more that cleaning out all the old grease and re-packing and adding a new gasket.