Question about Husqvarna Forest & Garden 125c 17" Curvgastrimmer
I have a Husq. 125c trimmer, it's not performing as it did when new. It sounds like it's struggling all of the time, it doesn't have that same high pitch healthy sound my other 2-stroke engines have.
Still trims the edges, though it won't go through anything tough like it used to.
Took it to my local repair shop who gave it a 'full service' and cleaned all the carb. etc. out....but still not right.
Has this machine simply come to it's end after 1 season of lawn maintenance contracting, or is there somthing that can be fixed before I go and replace it?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
find L on your carbruetor and turn it clockwise 1/4 turn to see what difference it makes
it should begin to idle by itself?
zama carb. 1 turn out from closed
walbro 1and 1/4 from closed settings are only preliminary
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
The drive shaft is not seated into position properly or the shaft has
broken. Have you had the shaft off recently? If so, take the shaft off
again and try to seat the shaft as you gently pull on the rope. If you
need further assistance, just let me know.
If you need further assistance, just let me know.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
There can many different answers. Fuel was old? Could have junked up the fuel filter in the fuel tank $5 or fuel junked up carburetor kit will cost you $15 take in carburetor to lawn mower shop. If you do rebuild make sure to blow out all ports and lines with compressed air. Make sure to run weed eater out of fuel if stored for the winter. M.J.'s Mobile Maintenance
Posted on May 24, 2010
SOURCE: Bought a new Husqvarna 128LD
Here is a little more info than you need, but if you follow the directions it will get your trimmer going again.
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages causing it hard to start.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of trimmers.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Jul 30, 2011
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