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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you need to replace the throtle body controll sensor. Also you may want to make sure all your linkage from the pedal to the throtle body is cleaned and lubed correctly. While playing in this direct area. Your throtle body is only 4 bolts away. Why not get some carb cleaner and get to know your truck just a litle more.
If this is a carborator, then you need to turn my warmup idle down. there are 2 sets of idles on carborators. the one to warm up the engine, automatic choke or pin settings. Get a Chilton, find out which idles pin is for what. and play a litle bit.
I think you have a throtle body so I would also check the automatic air intake sensor. It could be going bad. Check your filter and make sure its clean.
hope all this helps.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
Here's the deal. I have never even heard of your bike brand but I have 18 years in bike repair. If you promise not to give me anything less than a "helpful" rating I will tell you how to do the fix based on the assumption that the bike has a standard carb and not a CV carb. The standard carb has a top "cap" that unscrews from the center of the carb body.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine. Now unscrew the top cap and pull the slide out of the throat of the carb. When you re-install the slide, be sure the long notch on the side of the slide lines up with the small pin inside the throat of the carb.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Don't waste your time.
Have the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) replaced.
Check all vacuum lines for leaks.
Clamp all vacuum hose connections.
Do NOT replace any sensors unless the computer codes indicate.
THIS WILL FIX YOUR PROBLEM!
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Engine stalls or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
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