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Won't give hot water

I have a Rinnai 2424 water heater that has quit heating my water. I have shut down the electricity, turned off the gas, waited 5 min, turned the hot water on in the house, turned the gas back on, and switched on the power--these are the instructions as I understand them on the side of the unit on the outside of the house. But I still don't have hot water. Could you help me please. I am not a technological wonder. I have had this unit 5 years without a hitch until now. Could you help me please? I live in Festus, Missouri, so if you can't help me, could you inform me as to the nearest service provider? Thanks ever so much, Deborah

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: unit won't start it just flashes CL (the door is closed)

REPLACE POWER CONTOL BOARD

Posted on Jan 18, 2008

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  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: dish drawer leaks

The f1 is a flood error. There is a sensor in the bottom reading water. You have to dry it out before you can do anything or the drain pump will just keep running. Check the lid of the drawer you where using to see if anything may have been holding it up or if the seal is torn. If that looks ok you will have to check the lid actuators to see if one is not working. I would replace both right and left if one is out.

Posted on May 15, 2008

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Heating Element Won't Shut Off

id say your thermostat is bad look under the washer and follow the wire from the heating element to a little round disc replace that

Posted on May 26, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: dish drawer leaks Fisher Paykel

When water accumulates in the bottom it triggers an error code and it keeps running. There is a water sensor in the bottom. I pull out the bottom drawer, mop up the water and use a hair dryer to dry the water (the more you mop up the less you need the hair dryer). Be careful to not get any of the plastic too hot. Kill the power before messing with the unit. The first time I did this it took 20 minutes to dry out. I have gotten more proficient and it take about 5 minutes now.

I had a water leak which was due to the rinse agent cap not being completely sealed. Water leaked out of a small hole in the front (I'm guessing an air vent but don't know for sure) and flooded the bottom.

I also had a leak due to having too tall a dish in the drawer and the top not sealing. I currently have a leak on the top drawer of unknown origin, but the bottom drawer still works.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my rinnai 556fa propane heater

I had the identical trouble with my Rinnai 431F just now & read the unanswered posts.

I checked my intake & exhaust & found them connected & intact then went out to check the exterior vent assembly. The "bell" or dome was almost entirely clogged with ice.

I suspect the 60 - 76 lights flashing means insufficient combustion air.

Anyway, I took a hair dryer to it & in 10 minutes it was working as well as ever.

This won't help you October posters but if anyone else has this problem in the future I would start with the outside vent assembly. Get a good look right up inside because I would have missed this ice if I didn't get up close with a flashlight.

Here's a good source for manuals too...

http://www.houseneeds.com/products_rinnai.asp

I'm going back to bed.

M.


Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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GE Smart Water Hot water heater 40 gal will not stop heating water.


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http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Gas-water-heater-89-valve-2.jpg

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3) For gas: Copy following link to identify gas control valve thermostat, and troubleshoot by type of gas control.
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When in the shower, the heat fluctuates from hot to lukewarm over a 10 second cycle. The water will not stay at a constant temperature.


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the solution is to install a small buffer tank (5 or 10 gallon electric water heater) after the Rinnai. this will give the water something to mix in. it will solve your problem.

did you make sure to use a 3/4" gas line to the unit. not just 3/4" at the unit itself. sometimes when there is not enough gas, the unit will act funny and cycle from hot to warm or even cold. Make sure you check the gas line size, its very important.

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I have a problem with my Rinnai hot water heater giving me intermitant hot and cold. The water gets hot and I get in the shower. A few minutes later the hot water stops and I have to shut of the hot water...


We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Solution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.

Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined:
TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.

The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.

My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem.

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We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Soution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.

Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined:
TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.

The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.

My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem. Also - the Rinnai pipe going outside is a pipe within a pipe - so its both inlet and outlet air.

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I wonder if you have this problem below caused by a drop in water pressure from someone flushing a toilet or a washing machine. I would call the company to remedy this issue.

17. What is a cold water sandwich effect? The term “cold water sandwich effect” is a term that is used to describe the introduction of cold water into the hot water supply line during frequent on/off operation of an instantaneous water heater. The cold water sandwich effect, when present, appears as a momentary drop in hot water temperature as it is discharged from a hot water supply outlet (i.e. shower, tub, or faucet). This phenomenon is present in the operation of all instantaneous, tankless style, water heaters, but is minimized with the high tech design of Rinnai water heaters.
The technology built into the Rinnai water heaters is designed to minimize the cold water sandwich effect. Rinnai water heaters are microprocessor controlled and when water flow through them ceases, they remain in a “ready to fire state” for approximately 1 minute. If water flow through a Rinnai water heater begins within the first minute following water flow stoppage, the water heater will fire back up within 1 to 2 seconds. This minimizes the cold water sandwich effect that would otherwise be experienced with a low tech tankless water heater. It should be noted that the cold water sandwich effect cannot be removed completely from tankless style water heaters. The safety standards developed to insure the safe operation of water heaters require a delay in the ignition sequence of all gas water heaters.
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We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Solution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.

Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.

If you are reasonably machanically inclined:
TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.

The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.

My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem,

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