Low discharge super heat

"Low capacity thermal lockout"#81. What this tells me is your 1st stage cooling(low capacity) is locked out for 4 he's due to a dirty outdoor coil, weak outdoor fan motor run capacitor, slow outdoor fan motor, overcharged with freon, restricted or short cycling outdoor airflow(overheating), damaged discharge temp switch, faulty outdoor circuit board. That's all the scenarios I can think of for now. Hope this helps!

What is the model number?

Hi, Anonymous you may have hydraulic lock caused by excessive liquid in the cylinder or you have squeaked your top end this is commonly known as "HEAT SEIZE" the piston heats up expands and becomes extremely tight in the cylinder bore and usually occurs mainly on 2 cycle engines right after a fresh top end rebuild, but it can also happen to brand new motorcycles, these are rare instances due to better quality control and education. Overheating failures that cause pistons to seize are many and each one should be carefully diagnosed to prevent future repeat offenders and the usual suspects are:
1. Lack of lubrication due to low or no oil.
2. Among the causes of lack of cylinder, lubrication is clogging of lubricator by dirt or waste, obstruction in oil pipes/lines, leaky check valves, leaky pump packing, broken oil pipe/line, oil too cold to feed.
3. Wrong type of oil used in premix or oil tank.
4. Improper premix ratio you should start with 32:1 as a baseline.
5. New rebuild piston to cylinder tolerances set up too tight.
6. Failure to follow proper break in procedures with a 16:1 premix ratio.
7. Loose fasteners causing intake, base, or head gaskets to leak or blown crankshaft seal, failure caused by age, overheating or walking. 8. Holes in the intake manifold bent or warped intake flange or reed cage any stray air coming into a cylinder will cause a super lean condition.
9. Improper assembly of reed valve gaskets.
10. Insufficient warm up time for temperature conditions before wide open throttle.
11. Broken, pinched or cracked fuel line.
12. Carburetor fuel passages clogged or restricted from stale fuel varnish, ethanol sludge, dirt, rust, or fuel level in float bowl too low.
13. Main jet size too small or partially clogged
14. Air filter improperly installed, missing or not sealing.
15. Faulty or improperly adjusted oil pump and or cable.
16. Failure to bleed oil pump after a rebuild/replacement or running oil tank dry.
17. Engine coolant level too low, too old, or improper mixture ratio.
18. Radiator clogged, fins damaged, or faulty cap.
19. No liquid circulation due to failed oil or water pump.
20. Cavitation due to air in oil or coolant system.
21. Water and oil mix due to blown head gasket.
22. Timing retarded due to faulty CKP sensor or CDI.
23. Improper spark plug heat range (too hot) and or gap.
24. Excessive engine load, brakes dragging, clutch slipping, transmission lubricant level too low or viscosity to high.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
xr250 possible seized engine
Honda XR250 seized advice
Honda XR250R Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda XR250R Owner Manual

You need a megohmeter to test the line voltage wiring AND the compressor.

what is carrier 30hxc096 chiller fault code t-055 mean

You really need to talk to the carrier people for a solution here.
There are too many variables to be sorted out to give you a solution on line

To start with, the more I look at a system, the more familiar I become with that unit. Also, these machines can make me look like a genius or a fool! If you have a pressure switch problem, it's more than likely an expansion valve issue. I've seen a 2 month old Carrier, 4 compressors at 6 tons each, fail due to their expansion valve having an intermittent miss, closing for no reason, or not opening upon demand. And I spent 3 weeks chasing this because when it fails, all you can do is see the code, troubleshoot a bit, call Carrier tech support, then reset it. I ended up calling out Carrier, yes they have field techs, and it took 2 of them about 5 hrs to figure it out. These 2 only work on chillers, and took them 5 hrs! They adjusted the settings and walked away from it, said it was cycling on to close(each circuit), had damaged the valve. Still under warranty but did not replace. If its not the cooling fan circuit acting up, it may be the expansion valve(s) acting up. In that scenario, the tech is going to need to camp out by the unit, and catch it in the act. If you get a second opinion, call a refridgeration company that has some background in chillers. Or call Carrier.Hope this helps!

Hi, the indoor chiller unit blower section will have a sheet glued to a panel on the unit that will tell you where and what the code 302 means on the unit. Then you will be able to make the repairs you kneed.
Shastalaker7
PS the numbers above show that this is a 3 ton unit, 38CKC036. The error code more than likely will be 3 flashes from the board followed by 02 flashes. I may be wrong on that , so correct me if I am.

I watched your video on youtube. Sounds like a seized compressor. Do you know if it is reverse cycle or electric heat?

No, I would not recommend putting water into the chill chamber since if there is a "gap" hole in this compartment, the water could get inside the unit's electronics etc.. which could at the very least short the unit and at worst electrocute you as you take the bottle out/touch the unit. That's the problem with this or any other Peltier/thermoelelectric type of chiller. They are only good for maintaining an ALREADY cold bottle's temperature, not for chilling it rapidly. There is no good or inexpensive way to get better chilling from these types of units. It's the law of themodynamics and heat transfer. Water is the best/safest/most inexpensive medium to use, not chilled air or even super cold air. Cold air or even super cold air just does not match the chilling potential of a liquid like water. The reason why 50F air is no problem, for you to be out in for hours, but 50F water you'll get hypothermia in 20-30 mins.

The best unit for chilling a warm wine bottle is the cooper cooler. Go to www.coopercooler.com. It uses ice and water and sprays the ice cold water over the bottle while spinning it to chill it quickly. This unit is great since it can also chill single serve drinks like beer/soda etc so is more versatile than the other chillers. Cheapest is about $59 which is much less than the waring at ~$100