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Re: HE4T will not enter diagnostic mode
Usually if it's you motor controller it should stil go into diagnostic mode. so that is probably not your problem. can you post a picture of the inside ccu board and of the door lock this would be helpful.
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Page 5 of your manual seems to indicate you can select spin only under wash options and press start. If other options are already selected and they won't un-select through the options menu, press the power button off and unplug the washer for a minute or two. Then replug, turn power on and retry just selecting spin only again.
I have the manual for this machine. Under "Code 21" it says the following:
"F21" (Drain Problem)
Select STOP twice to cancel the cycle. Unplug washer or
Check the following:
Is the drain hose kinked?
Is the drain hose frozen?
Is the drain hose clogged?
Is the drain hose more than 96" (2.4 m) above the floor?
Plug in washer or reconnect power. Re-select cycle and press
START. If the problem remains, call for service.
For "SUDS" code, the following:
"SUD" (Suds Routine)
When excessive suds are detected, a suds routine
automatically starts. This routine removes extra suds and
assures proper rinsing of your garments. "SUD" is displayed
during rinsing to inform you that Suds Routine was activated.
Use only HE (High Efficiency) detergents.
Here is some more information that may help you as well:
"F" Codes other than F20, F21 and F22
Select STOP twice to cancel the cycle. Select DRAIN & SPIN
if there is excessive water in the washer.
Re-select cycle and press START. If the problem remains, call
I hope this is of some help to you, Please rate and comment, Thank You
You didn't mention if the machine was giving any error codes. Do the following steps to get any stored error codes and post them back to me. Select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
it is probably the door lock asm itself but lets try the diagnostic mode. Usually on the newer duets when the lock quits you get a quick series of beeps upon pressing start. On the old style (red leds, no teardrop) set drain/spin cycle, no spin option press prewash 4 times quickly new models (green leds, teardrop front) the old way may also work but will only start factory test, no code display. instead with unit off, select any one option key, press and hold 4 secs, release 4 secs and repeat till all lights come on (3 or 4 times) then it will flash any f codes, press that same key again to advance to the next code if any (most recent code first) then it will go to display software versions (n:xx etc) when it shows C:00 the door should lock at C:01 it will fill with cold water this is the factory test routine it will advance automatically. some steps may take a while but should complete them all and turn off. we are of course interested in if it locks here and advances. a F code may still get displayed.
Once you retrieve your clothes, try running diagnostics on it. You can envoke the diagnostic sequence by selecting DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN and then pressing any button under OPTIONS 4 times (must be the same button). The display should go to "C00" as the washer begins a sequence of tests that checks the fill functions, door lock, dispenser functions, motor speed, spin and drain. Allow the washer to run through the entire sequence and shut off. If anything is wrong an error code should be generated. Hopefully, all you had was a minor glitch. Let me know how things turn out. I hope this helps you.
Okay...my experience with this model front loader leads to the following possible problems:
CAUTION: UNPLUG the washer if you plan to service the interior. It is dangerous to have your hands inside the unit with moving parts and energized. Plug the washer back in and stand back if you plan on doing any operation checks.
1. Door bellow ripped or torn (this is the gray rubber boot around the door - open the door and inspect along the entire door boot. Including the areas behind the rubber fold where the rubber meets the wash tub. It is common for them wear out and tear. NOTE: Make sure the fill hose on the left-hand side of the door boot is fully snug in place. Sometimes it will come loose and leak BEHIND the door boot.
2. Drain pump or hoses leaking - You will need to remove the lower panel under the door to see inside the washer. Remove the three torx type screws under the front lip at the bottom of the panel. For easier access, place a small block of wood under each front foot. The washer is heavy so you may need assistance to lift the front slightly. CAUTION: Do not lift on the door, push on the door panel or control panel. If the panel sticks, slightly tap on the sides and it will drop down and come off. The pump is located in the front under the wash tub. Make sure the clean out trap is snug and all your hoses are tight and not torn. Check the drain hose that leads out of the back of the washer from the drain pump to ensure it is not cracked.
3. Air Dome hose has come loose from the tub - This will be a small rubber hose connected to a plastic piece (called an air dome) on the right-hand side of the wash tub as you are looking in from where you removed the bottom panel. It should be located behind the drain pump and mounted physically to the wash tub. The other end of this hose runs to the pressure switch, which turns the water flow off when the washer tub fills to the approriate level. If this hose comes off, the washer will start to leak on the FILL cycle and will not shut off. I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is still worth a look since you have the panel opened.
4. Tub seal leaking or tub cracked - These would be the most undesirable of all possible problems because it would require the removal of the entire wash tub in order to correct. Inspect the wash tub seam and make sure there's no water coming from around the tub.
I hope this gives you a few possible items to work with. Inpsect the washer interior when you get the panel off and post back if you can determine where the leak is coming from.
HELPFUL HINT: Put the washer into diagnostics mode if you plan to leak test. At the control panel select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, however). "C00" will be displayed on the operator console, and you will hear the door latch engage. The washer will run through a series of tests by filling using hot and cold water, checks all your dispenser features, tumbles the drum, spins and drains. This diagnostics can be stopped at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice. The drain pump will come on and drain the washer.
First of all, does the washer make a distinctive "click" when you push the START button? This is an indication that your door latch is locking (or at least making an attempt to lock). Normally, however, the display would have an "fdl" fault code indicating a door lock failure if it were bad. I have seen the latch go bad and not register a fault code, though. You can perform this simple diagnostic test to see if any fault codes register:
1. Select DRAIN/SPIN
2. Under SPIN SPEED select NO SPIN
3. Then, under OPTIONS push the PREWASH button 4 times.
You should hear the door latch click then "C00" will show on the display. The washer will begin a series of tests (C01...C05 - depending on options and model) by testing the hot and cold fill valves, the various dispenser compartments, followed by tumble, drain and spin.
If there is something wrong the diagnostic test will abort and a fault code will be displayed. The washer usually beeps when it displays a fault code.
If you attempt to perform the diagnostic and the display momentarily flashes after you press the PREWASH button the fourth time and goes out, this can also be a symptom of bad door latch.
You need to perform these simple steps first in order to further diagnose. Let me know what you come up with.