Question about Lutron 1000-Watt Incandescent Dimmer Switch by Electronics, Inc

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Light switch feels hot

I have six 100w recessed lights in my living room. When I go turn the lights off the light switch feels hot. The lights and switch were installed by an electrician. If it's a 600w switch why would it heat up? Do I need to get a 1000w switch?

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If the switch is rated at 600 watts and you have six 100 watt lamps connected to the switch, you are at the capacity of the switch and heating would be expected. It's general practice to not place loads on a device that will exceed 80% of the device's ratings, in this case 480 watts.

Some heating in a dimmer switch is not unusual, but if it's hot, it should be replaced with a device with a higher rating or the loads should be divided. You could also lower the wattage of the lamps (to around 75 watt each) unless you would lose too much light.

If the sockets in the fixtures can be lowered closer to the surface of the fixture, you can probably reduce the wattage since more light will exit the fixture. You will also save a few bucks with less wattage. Lastly, check the fixtures themselves and see if they are rated for the wattage of the lamps you have in them.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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1 Answer

How to wire in an on-off switch for ceiling light from power source going to living room.


Pretty easy if you can get the wires from the existing wall outlet. Just run a wire from existing outlet to the where you want the new light. Install inside an approved ceiling electrical outlet box and then run another wire to where you want the switch or switches. If you go to home depot or the library you can look at the books with diagrams on how to wire it. You can skip the wall switch if you use a light with a pull chain.

Sep 20, 2014 | Electric Electrical Supplies

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Connecting lighting correctly


Don't know what you're working with.

AC household electricity?

Common (White) wire goes to all three lights. Goes to silver colored screw.
Hot (Black) wire goes to switch, then all three lights.

ALWAYS put the switch in the hot wire. Not the Common.
Reason?
Let's say you are changing a light bulb.
Your feet are on the floor. You are then considered to be Grounded.

You have the light switch off. You go to remove the light bulb, slip, and a finger goes in the socket.
Result?
You get shocked.

Hot (Black) wire has the switch. This time of you slip, and a finger goes in the light bulb socket; you won't be shocked.
The power is turned off at the switch.

Common wire comes from source. (Service Panel/'Breaker Box'), and goes to the lights.
Hot (Black) wire comes from source, and goes to light switch.
Then to the first light, second light, and third light.

Is there a 3-way switch involved?
Walk in one end of the room, turn the light on, walk to the other end of the room, and turn it off?

Post back in a Comment as to the exact query.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Jan 26, 2013 | Computers & Internet

2 Answers

I have a dead short somewhere in the wiring for 6 recessed ceiling lights. How do I trouble shoot this to find the short


Test each light separately.
Black Hot wire arrives at one screw on the switch. The Hot black wire going to Lights connects to other screw on the switch.
The White Neutral that completes the circuit to lights is connected with other white wires that are covered with wire nut pushed to back of box.
Open up light#1, and the Hot and Neutral arrive from switch box.
The Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6 are also located inside light#1 box.
Check each wire for signs of high heat and burning. Check each wire if the insulation has been sliced, or cut short, or if copper is visible because wire nut does not cover wires correctly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html
Disconnect Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6, so switch is only turning on light#1.
Test if there is a short when turning switch ON.
Then repeat step, so switch turns on light#1 and light#2, but light#3-6 are disconnected.

May 31, 2012 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Light won't turn off - very hot and heating up


HI. This is the direct result of a failed door switch. This switch controls the actual evaporator fan, as well. This dysfunctional switch must be replaced, asap. This replacement will correct your issues. The switch will generally be loctaed or mounted near the door jamb or recessed near the the door and unit structure intersecting areas or closing points. Once extracted, it can be tested for proper functionality with a ohm/multimeter.

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1 Answer

I have a levitron 6696-I remoter switch installed in my living room. This switch feels very hot to the touch. Is this normal or is something wrong?


Remove a hot wiring device immediately.

This is not safe.

I just found your post, and am going to send the response now without discussing the dimmer.

You can add a comment and get in touch with me.

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1 Answer

What sense is there in a three way switch with an off position? yes, if you turn it off the other switch will not work.


If a three way switch is wired correctly you can turn off the light or appliance from either switch as you can also turn it on from either switch. If you have two doors entering into your living room and a three way switch for the main light at each entrance then either switch can turn the light on as you enter or either switch and turn the light off as you exit.

Dec 02, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

3 Answers

I have a problem with my kitchen's recessed lighting. For some reason, the six bulbs will go out during the evening hours, then come back on. There is no pattern, with one, two, three or four of them out...


It sounds as if you may have higher wattage bulbs and/or the wrong type of bulb installed in the can fixtures than the recessed cans are rated for.

When the wattage of the bulbs is higher than the rating of the fixture, and/or the wrong bulbs are being used, the recessed can's thermal overload device will shut off the light, to prevent damage and a possible fire situation.

It is unlikely that you've got a faulty dimmer, since you state that not all of the lights go off at once, thus it can be narrowed down to each can and thus the thermal overload being the culprit.

I would suggest you look inside the recessed can light fixture and determine what the maximum wattage bulb you can use, (60, 75, 90 watts, etc.) and use the next lower wattage bulb instead. I also install only Halogen bulbs in recessed cans, (they have a flat lens vs. a rounded bulb lens area like PAR type bulbs). Halogen bulbs are also the most efficient incandesent bulb that provides the whitest light possible and directs more light (and thus heat) downward away from the recessed can.

I avoid using a standard light bulb or PAR type bulbs in any recessed can fixtures as they tend to heat up quite a bit and cause the thermal protection to trip frequently.

As a Master Electrician that has installed literally thousands of recessed fixtures and dimmers, I can say that my customers prefer the Halogen light over standard bulbs and they last longer too.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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I have recessed lighting in my living room with a dimmer i want install a fan with no lights on it


Do you mean you want to replace your recessed with a fan with no light? Try to visit www.contemporarylightingdecor.com, they have lighting and fan experts who could give free advice.

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