# Primary winding of ac power xfmr open

What is the secondary voltage of this xfmr? I have a few that might work.

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Posted on Apr 14, 2009

Hi,
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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## Related Questions:

### Conventional power pack

A primary and secondary usually refers to a transformer. The primary side being the input side 110 AC Volt or 220 Volt AC side. Also called Source.
The Secondary being the "output to load" side 12 Volts "for example". And also called Tap (Secondary Tap)

The voltage is changed by conduction, magnetic flux, neither side touching one another. And the number of turns of wire, per side, determine the voltage. The voltage may either be a step-down or Step-up depending on its use.
An unconventional method is to have both the primary & secondary combined into a single tapped winding - which arrangement is called an autotransformer. The autotransformer does not provide isolation between primary and secondary circuits but its simplicity makes it economical and space-saving.
Imagine a single wire wrapped from the top to the bottom being the primary, and tapping in. in the middle and bottom for the secondary, so the output becomes 1/2. That would be a step-down transformer.

The actual measurement of a transformer is measured by its efficiency (Faraday Law) which is defined as a ratio of power. I hope that's sufficient, but if you want more I would buy for \$2 bucks an Electricity Made Simple Book, because there are pages after pages to write about transformers, and to understand electricity in general it is helpful to understand the difference between alternating current and direct current and its magnetic field of induction and magnitude of emf.

May 10, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

### Schematic malibu 8100-9120-01

http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

I don't think they post schematic for the transformer
But generally, the primary coil receives 120Volt AC input from household electrical outlet
And the secondary coil produces 12Volt AC output for the low voltage lights.
The 'coil' is a coil of insulated wire wrapped around a metal core. Two coils set side by side create a transformer... when primary is energized, the secondary responds to the magnetic field caused by primary core... resulting in a current that flows on the secondary coil.
Output voltage on secondary coil is determined by the number of wraps and diameter of wire.

Some transformers offer a choice of secondary output... Kichler for example... you can select 12-13-14-15 Volt AC output
This is achieved by the way the secondary coil is wrapped.... for less voltage a wire is tapped at one point on the coil... for more voltage, a wire is tapped at another point on coil. This gives the user several wire choices to connect the lights.

Gene

May 09, 2014 | Intermatic Malibu 300W Power Pack...

### No power light on my hitachi modelcx-36w cd tape radio player but power to the machine the fuse is fine

If the radio has a power transformer check there is AC voltage to the primary "fuse side", [ 2 wires ] if yes check the secondary side, if no AC voltage is present the power transformer is open at the primary. The part must be replaced.

Jun 12, 2012 | Audio Players & Recorders

### Where does the coil fire from

Here's (sort of) how it works: the coil gets a constant low voltage (12 volts or less) signal from the ignition switch to the coil's primary wiring.. The computer tells the ignition module when to interrupt the ground source for the primary windings. When ground is interrupted, the primary winding's electromagnetic field is collapsed, thereby inducing high voltage in the coil's secondary wiring or windings (much higher voltage due to many more secondary wire's windings than the primary windings). The coil's secondary winding (or wire) is directly tied to the coil tower's big wire that delivers high voltage to the distributor cap and on through the rotor to the spark plug wire and then to the spark plug.
Are you more confused, or did my explanation help? The coil is the key to produce high voltage to jump the sparkplug gap with a spark. The trick is to wrap the inside wiring around an iron core or rod (thus the term windings), and when current is passed through the wire it creates an electromagnetic field which has a strong (strange?) effect on the coil's secondary wiring, or windings.
Look at it this way: Anybody can explain it (I just did), but how many of us truly understand electromagnetic theory?To me, it's a magic black box, lol.

Feb 08, 2012 | Mitsubishi Cars & Trucks

### 650 raptor coil testing

If you suspect a malfunctioning ignition coil, check the resistance of primary and secondary windings. Do this when the coil is hot, and again when it is cold. Also measure from the case to each connector. The primary windings should have a very low resistance, typically from a few tenths of an ohm to a few ohms. The secondary windings have a higher resistance, typically in the 10,000 to 13,000 ohm range. To get the actual figures for a specific coil, check the manufacturer's specs. But as a rule of thumb, primary windings range from a few tenths of an ohm to a few ohms, and secondary winding may be 10 ohms or more.

Oct 28, 2010 | Yamaha XS 650 B Motorcycles

### I live in New Zealand which has 240 volt supply on the grid. The zantrex 2000 works with an input supply of 120 volts. How can I use it?

Hi, OK, there are two ways to achieve this. One. Using an external STEP DOWN Transformer, 240 V AC, to 120 V AC. The ONLY thing that matters is KVA. As long as the KVA is the same ir will work. This means as long as the Output Voltage and Current are the same, it's irrelevant whats on the Secondary. So if
The second, is to remove the existing transformer, and substitute with an exactly the same Secondary Outputs, BUT with a 240 V AC,. Input winding. Most likely it is a simple step Down transformer anyway, that steps down, whatever the external voltage is, down to say 12 -18 V AC. Therefor ANY suitable 240 V AC transformer with the SAME secondary winding(s) will work, no problems. You can even get some transformers Overwound, for 240 V AC, a very common thing, depending on transformer construction. There are a few transformer manufacturers in the "Yellow Pages" contact one of them and inquire.
As a tip, sometimes the existing transformer has TWO 120 V windings, and sometimes only ONE side is used, for US power, and for 240 V AC, you simply connect the other winding in series, and NOW you have got your 240 V AC to whatever.

Sep 01, 2010 | Inverter Xantrex MS2000 Sine Wave Charger...

### Transformers primary winding broken. What the ratio? 230 VAC to ? VAC (10 VAC ??)

For transformers, the voltage to turns raio is calculated by formula:

V1 / N1 = V2 / N2 where,
V1 >> Voltage at primary
N1 >> number of turns at primary winding

V2 >> Output voltage at secondary
N2 >> No. of turns at secondary winding

V1 = 230 and V2 = 10. If you know the no of turns of winding at one side, you can calculate the turns on the other side.

Aug 12, 2009 | JVC RC-ST3 Cassette/CD Boombox

### P1370 and p1350 trouble codes

P1370 Ignition Control (IC) Module 4x Reference too many pulses

P1350 Ignition Control System

Ok, these codes are signaling a malfunction within the Ignition control module. it is sending way to many signals to the coil. i recommend testing the coil for damage and irregular resistance. i will explain how to do this below. i would replace the module as well. The control moduel is Located Under hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in base of ignition coil pack

Ignition Coil Test Procedures__

Ignition Coil Resistance

* with the key off and the battery lead to the ignition coil disconnected, use an Ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistance of the ignition coil. when checking the resistance across the windings, pay particular attention to the meter reading. if the reading is out of specifications, even if it is only slightly out, the coil or coil assembly should be replaced.
* To check the primary windings, calibrate an ohmmeter on the X1 scale and connect the meter leads to the primary coil terminals to test the winding.

* An infinite ohmmeter reading indicates an open winding. The winding is shorted if the meter reading is below the specified resistance. Most primary windings have a resistance of 0.5 to 2 ohms, but the exact manufacturer's specifications must be compared to the meter readings.
* To check the secondary winding, calibrate the meter on the X1,000 scale and connect it from the coil's secondary terminal to one of the primary terminals.

# A meter reading below the specified resistance indicates a shorted secondary winding. An infinite meter reading proves that the winding is open.
# In some coils, the secondary winding is connected from the secondary terminal to the coil frame. When the secondary winding is tested in these coils, the ohmmeter must be connected from the secondary coil terminal to the coil frame or to the ground wire terminal extending from the coil frame. Many secondary windings have 8,000 to 20,000 ohms resistance, but the meter readings must be compared to the manufacturer's specifications. The ohmmeter tests do not indicate such defects as defective insulation around the coil windings, which causes high-voltage leaks.

May 17, 2009 | 1997 Cadillac DeVille

### Wiring harness 1974 sportster???

I am assuming your bike is stock, or close to it. In 1974, all h-d's used a battery coil ignition with wasted spark. Battery positive flows from the ignition switch to the coil, through the coil primary winding to the points, then open or shorted to negative (through the chassis) depending on the points being open or closed. When the engine is turning over, this is what happens: The small cam that operates the points has the points in the closed position, so battery current is flowing through the coil primary, through the closed points to negative. This causes the primary winding inside the coil to set up a magnetic field. When the cam starts to open the points, the current tries to bridge the gap. If we let this happen, the big arc between the point surfaces would burn up in a hurry, and the plugs would not fire for the following reason: The ignition coil is a transformer. It has a primary and secondary winding.The secondary winding has many more turns of wire than the primary. When the secondary winding "cuts" magnetic lines of force a larger voltage is induced in the secondary. In the case on your sporty, we are boosting 12 volts to over 10,000 volts. This depends on 2 things: The number of lines of force and the speed they are cut. So, when the points just start to open, the condenser absorbes the current until the points are open enough to prevent arcing. Then the current flow through the primary winding stops. The magnetic field quickly collapses, cutting through the secondary windings that are connected to the spark plugs. The resulting high voltage (pressure) Jumps the gap on both plugs and lights the fire. One of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke so that spark is wasted. So: ignition on : 12v at coil positive. With points closed, 0 volts at coil negative. If you read voltage here, the points are dirty or open or the wire from the coil to the points is open. Points open: 12 volts at coil negative. To check for spark, you don't have to crank the engine. Just manually opening the points should fire the plugs. After you get the plugs firing, post again and I will tell you how to razor tune this thing. It should start instantly with a perfect idle. Hope this is clear.

Oct 14, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

### Repair for Emerson MW8102SS microwave

What probably happened when the power went out is that you had a power surge or SPIKE as well, either before or after power was lost and then restored.

This sometimes can happen just before the power trips at your substation that feeds your house, or else it can happen when the power comes back on.

There are safeguards that are suppose to be in place to prevent this from happening, but sometimes they fail as well.

If you are in a bad area that has frequent power outages I would suggest adding an appliance surge suppressor to your microwave - similar to those like they use on refrigerators.

If your microwave is a 110VAC unit and somehow 220VAC is crossed circuit wise (as in underground, etc) then the same thing can cause your present day problem as well. Happened to my neighbor once and the same thing happened to their Litton Microwave. They gave it to me free, as they were just going to throw it out anyway.

I was able to open it up and get the part # off the L.V. XMFR and ordered a new one for like \$10 direct from the XFMR mfr after getting their factory phone #. Litton wanted \$36 for their same identical part. \$\$\$

When this power outage happens like it did to you then you get a surge of current that will overload the primary side of the LOW VOLTAGE Transformer (XMFR) and causes it to go open circuit in the secondary - as in - it makes a break inside the XFMR itself causing the Control Panel to go dead as well. Because this AC XFMR is a step down type that takes 110VAC and drops it down to say maybe 18-24VAC you can see why it wouldn't like 220VAC on the primary side - as then the secondary side would rise up to say 36-48VAC which is way too high for the DC rectified voltages that run the Control Panel logic circuits, etc.

Nothing will work at this point except maybe for the cooking chamber light - maybe? If the Low Voltage XFMR has a fuse in it's circuit that fuse can be blown. If there is no fuse for that circuit then the L.V. XFMR has to be replaced. Usually the XFMR part will cost anywhere from \$18 to maybe \$35 if you can get one.

If you know someone that is handy with a DVM (digital volt meter) perhaps they can OHM out the primary and secondary side of that L.V. XFMR for you as I firmly believe that is your only problem.

One thing you might check first though is if there is a Circuit Breaker (CB) on the back of the MW unit. If it has one chances are it may have tripped, and by pushing the popped button back in - your problem would be solved hopefully. IF it even has a CB.

Hope the info helps out?

Best regards,

Frank

Mar 03, 2008 | Emerson MW8102SS 1100 Watts Microwave Oven

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