Fridge not cooling! But the Fan and light is working! HELP!!
We moved recently and I decided not move my fridge with the help of my brother in law using a dolly. We moved it down 3 story using stair case and it came down banging every step one at a time. So, we get to the new house and we plug back in the fridge. Lights go on, fan is working for freezer and fridge both, so we though everything is fine. But next morning, all the frozen food was defrosted, my milk didn't feel cold (like before). We change the setting for freezer and fridge to colder and gave it another day but still no improvements. Fan seems to be working fine for the freezer but the air is not cold. I dont know much about fridge but i checked out the compressor and all i found was that when i touched the compressor, it was hot but not hot enough to burn me. I could actually keep in touch with it for few seconds before i get the burning feeling.
THis is all i could tell you please, help me!! Thanks!
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It works like a fridge or ac. When its charge gets low it can't cool. It will cycle on and off as freon goes around the circuit. Must be leaking around seals or crack in line. A good ac man could check its pressure to determine. Also, thermostat could be going bad, I would check that as well.
Open following link for troubleshoot error codes showing 7 flashes on Honeywell gas control valve is system lockout due to flammable vapor: http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Honeywell-gas-control_error-Damper-series.pdf The FV system in Rheem can be tripped by presence of flammable vapors such as gasoline or paint fumes etc, or it can be tripped if water heater was dropped, or mis-manufactured, or if gas control valve is defective, or if water heater is not getting adequate fresh air, or there is inadequate venting of combustion by-product. When combustion chamber overheats, then glass vial breaks and damper shuts off air supply to water heater and it will not light. Open following link for possible help fixing the problem: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repair-Rheem-FVIR.html
Moving a water heater outside is not a good idea because of freezing and increased electricity usage. If you are set on moving it, I would recommend moving it to a garage instead of the outside.
Which ever way you decide to do it, you will need to make sure you build a flat platform for it and that you run a new electrical line from the circuit breaker panel to the new location. I would also recommend that you install an exterior electrical box near the new location. Make sure that you use armored cable from that box to the connection on the water heater.
Now you have to tackle the water lines. You will have to run the cold water line from its present location to the new location of the water heater and the new hot water line back to the old water heater location. Make sure that you insulate all lines not once but twice. A heat tape installed on both lines would also help with freezing.
Many times fines from these filters become dislodged and plug up the filter housing. If you have the bypass plug for the filter, install it and run a couple gallons of water through fridge to flush the system completely. The install the filter again. Make sure none of the water lines feeding fridge are pinched or kinked and valve is on all the way. RJ
When the fan stops working it also stops the boiler. Safety. Check that the fan is turning and blowing air out. You can hear it turning at the top of the boiler and at the vent pipe exit. With the electrics off, remove front cover and test the fan by moving the blades by hand. Any element of stiffness or jerking or if the fan does not turn freely - replace. These have an induction motor - no repair Check the electrical contact wires to fan are ok. If the fan is ok check also the 2 plastic tubes to & from the air pressure unit [usually close to one side of the fan] are intact [no splits or holes and will maintain pressure and vacuum] and fully connected to their metal terminals. Next is to examine the pcb (the electronic board behind the switches) Look for any block connections loose and any obvious signs of black marks on the board. If the latter, replace
Th epproblem you are most likely have is from a safety called a flag switch usually located either in the blower or right past it. When you unplug and replug you reset the switch. Sequence of events.
1 fan comes on.
2 switch is made from the airflow of the fan.
3 ignitor come on
4. main gas valve opens and ignitor starts flame.
You are being stopped at step 2 when the fan does not move with the air. This shuts off and out the water heater from calling again. Find the fan switch and make sure it moves easily. They get dirty and also dry from lack of lube.
It is most likely the water valve stuck open, telling the controls to heat water, that it thinks is flowing through it, but without actual flow it overheats. Depending on how comfortable you are with taking it apart yourself, you could open the valve to see if it just needs cleaned out, or if you have a ruptured diaphragm or some other cause.