When bottom freezer door is closed the gasket is compressed at the bottom of each side and almost open on one top side and definitely open on the other top side. There doesn't appear to be any adjustments to the drawer slide or door mounting hardware to accommodate rotating the door to fit and close squarely. Refig was used in rental unit for a while so problem went unnoticed until large ice build up, etc. Any suggestions? Any sources of manuals?
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Re: Freezer door misalignment on ARB8057CSL
Before adjusting hinges you need to take a good look across the door from the side to make sure the door is not warped rather than the hinge misaligned. Cannot give much info on hinges but most do not give much adjustment and most can be accessed it is possible that one of the fixings is loose. The other possibility is that the seal is preventing the door from closing, although it does sound as though it is the top hinge not pulled towards the cabinet properly. Sorry to be vague. Hope this is of some help.
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Make sure the doors are closed tight - freezer door may open a crack when frig side closes.
If door is tight, make sure the door gasket makes a tight seal. Often they need to be cleaned (409 is my favorite) or they get twisted. They also sometimes come away from the door in spots. Pay attention to the bottom seal which you usually don't notice in daily use.
I have a refrigerator with a top freezer that was constantly popping open, just enough to let the heat in and melt anything inside. This can also cause heavy frost build up from condensing humidity in the air. The frost can build up on the front face of the fridge where it meets the magnetic gasket on the door making it even harder to keep the freezer closed.
The cause in my case was that slamming the refrigerator door sent a puff of air through the ductwork to the freezer above. The sudden pressure increase popped the freezer door open and the door wasn't heavy enough to close on its own. Since this is a beer fridge in my garage I fixed it by putting a stick on childproof latch from H-D on the freezer door. :-)
If this was our main fridge indoors, I would first check to see how much force it takes to open the freezer vs. the refrigerator section. It should be about the same. If not, check the freezer door gasket to be sure no food or ice is built up on it and that the mating surface is clean. Check that the door is closing parallel to the mating surface. A misalignment would make it hard for the gasket to seal or stay sealed. Adjust hinges if necessary. If all seems ok, check to see if the fridge is level or possibly needs to be adjusted so it tilts back just a bit to make the doors self closing and not fighting gravity to stay closed. If all else fails, inspect the door gasket to be sure it isn't broken or stiffened with age. Inspect the bottom of the door gasket with a mirror. I once had a side by side with what looked like a good gasket until I felt around the bottom of the door. Replace if necessary.
Good day, First, make sure the gasket including the bottom is clean, as well as the mating surface of the machine itself. The machine itself should be checked for being level. Side to side, if it's a top freezer model, the hinge side cannot be lower than the other side. As well, front to back it should be leveled but with a slight tilt to the rear to assist in closing. If none of this helps, then the magnets in the gasket itself have gotten weak and the gasket needs replaced.
Notes: Heavier items keeped in the freezer door will help to a degree. Closing the door slower as well.
The reason this happens, is that with the main door open, then closed, a large volume of air is forced into the fresh food compartment. There are vents that are open between the freezer section and fresh food compartment. This large volume of air when closing the main door is compressed into a smaller area, causing the problem.
If the ice is clear and frozen on the floor of the freezer the defrost drain line may be plugged causing the water to over flow the
drain trough and leak into the bottom frezer compartment.
This will require a service tech. to remove the rear panel inside the freezer and find the reason for the blockage of the drain line.
Mold or slime in drain line
Debirs covering the drain inlet hole
Out of spec defrost heater.
If the ice is fluffly like snow then the freezer door may not be sealing properaly.
With the freezer door closed check the door gasket all the way around the freezer door.
If a gap is seen on one side the freezer door may be misaligned.
To realign freezer door remove all ice with a hair dryer.
Soak up all moisture on the metal rails and inside the freezer.
Pull freezer door all the way out unitll it stops serveral times.
This may realign the freezer door.
If not the door slide rails,Track or Roller gears may need to be replaced.
Replace the seals. It may appear to be in good shape but what is happening is the compressed air from closing the refer door is going up and releasing the seal on the freezer I would replace the freezer seal first as that should solve your problem.
the door pops open because freezer and frig. are connected together via duct. air pressure builds when you swing ref door closed. apply a small amount of vasoline to the surface of the hinge side of both gaskets. this will aid in door closure. also the unit may be not level
Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket. Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.
Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door: This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
I hope this helps, and if you need more information On solutions just let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
The freezer door is relatively light weight, and when the fresh foods door closes, the air has to go somewhere and the easiest escape route is to momentarily pop the freezer door open. The door should close again quickly. If is does not, make sure the freezer door liner is not touching the top or bottom, causing dragging resistance, and make sure that the front leveling legs are raised up so the door closes by it's self when released from a 45 degree opening. Sometimes the hinge side gasket rubs and holds things up also, especially if that area was cleaned. If that is the case, rub a film of wax on the hinge side gasket to lubricate it. Additional weight in the freezer door will also help.