Electrical Problem Don't get 220 to the element

It requires a 2 pole ganged breaker to meet code and guarantee the breaker is on two legs of the single split phase service. That in itself doesn't explain the 120 volts at the heater element.

Replace the two single breakers with the appropriate 2 pole ganged breaker. Before connecting the feed to the heater, turn on the ganged breaker and measure voltage across the breaker. If not 240VAC then there is a problem at the breaker panel.

If there's 240 at the breaker then you've somehow wired the thermostat incorrectly but can't imagine what you did.

First check that all connections are good. turn off power and take off the cover plates pull out the wires connected with wire nuts and check that they are not loose remove any electrical tape covering the nuts and turn power back on. with a meter check that you have 220 at the connections. if all is good at the incoming service check the upper element if power passes it in parallel check the exiting connections.if good there check the bottom power if you have 220 there either your element is bad or the thermostat. check the element by turning off power again and check the element with a continuity tester. if the element is good then your thermostat is probably defective try turning it up higher and see if you get 220 out of it.

The element is broken, you can pick up a replacement from any wholesaler of plumbing/electrical/appliance parts. Otherwise, there could also be an in-line fuse. if you look up your appliance on the internet ( a silver sticker on the lip or groove around the perimeter of the door has the serial number and model number) you can search the exact model number and find the manual, and then see if an in-line fuse exists. Otherwise, replace the heating element

Graham

Did you install the unit? Has the heat ever worked?

More than likely the element is shorted or the thermal cutout on the element assm has failed you can test them for continuity if they don;t have continuity they are bad. 1st reset your house breaker, the dryer needs a full 220volts to turn the heater on, if that is good check the cord and make sure you haven't lost 220 there, then check the element and cutout.

We have situations like that where even with an electrical meter it may appear that both sides of the panel have voltage when actually one of the main breakers or fuse has blown. If that is the case power flows through some 220 volt devices to feed the second side of the panel but no 220 volt appliances work. If that is the case then the voltage will not be 120 volts on the second side but some lighting has a brown out or too low of a voltage. If none of this is happening then you have blown your element. To prove that... verify with a multimeter that you have 220 volts on the element.

It doesn't matter. The element completes the circuit.

The indicator lights operate on 120 volts whereas the elements operate on 220 volts.
Using an electrical test meter go between the two hot legs and see if you are getting 220 volts. If not you have an open or non completed circuit.
Do not test from one leg to ground as you will probably read 120 volts for each leg. By reading across both legs you should get 220 volts.

First thing to check is look for ~220 volts AC across the two slanted connections in the dryer power socket. You need a voltmeter for this. If no 220 volts, check the house electrical panel to see if the dryer circuit breakers (pair) have tripped--push them OFF, then ON. Recheck for 220 volt at the dryer socket. If voltage is still missing, you may have one or two bad breakers--replace the pair. If ok, try the dryer. If it starts, then quits, you have a short inside the dryer--likely the heating element. Nearly full tear down to get to the dryer element in back of the drum. Weigh repair cost versus a new dryer. Hope this helps!