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My stihl fs88 whipper snipper has just had new air filter and diaphram, fuel tank cleaned, new spark plug, but is still only half power or less and is not running good and keeps stopping every few minutes. What could be causing this?

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SOURCE: my fs 45 whipper snipper is starting but running

I have a Stihl FS 45 and have had problems with it running for a short time then cutting out. The problem is like to be either- the filter attached to end end of the fuel pick hose that goes down into the fuel tank is blocked or- there is a crackor split in the corrugated section of the fuel pick up hose between the fuel tank and the carburettor. If such a crack or split exists it will cause air to be sucked in with the fuel upsetting the fuel/air ratio. A new hose not adjustment is the only cure

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

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Battery is NO GOOD.... need new ones, these quickly go bad, if not religiously charged and discharged. You must charge a long time when first get them, and then as soon as flat must go back on charger, for at least 4hours... regardless what is said. If ever removed before properly charged, then it will "remain" at that level, next charge and so on... All batteries MUST be flat before recharge, and full before used again, no exceptions.

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

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Posted on May 22, 2011

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SOURCE: stihl weed eater runs 2min. then stop

Stihl weedeater was running and stopped suddenly. Put in a new fuel filter and cleaner air filter with soap and water. Checked spark plug and it appeared fine. Started the weedeater, ran for a second or so and stopped. Spark plug wasn't gas fouled. Could it be the carburetor needing new diaphram gasket and spring.

Posted on Jun 19, 2011

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: stihl weed eater runs for

Hi
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Aug 24, 2011

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