No lights inside or outside and will not work on dc either, do have 14 volts going to unit

On the power pack there may be a label that says 12v dc or 18v Dc or some other voltage. There may be a input voltage on the keyboard and a current rating eg 12v DC 1A current or it might be AC voltage of 12V or some value.

get a volt meter or a multimeter and measure the voltage on the plug. positive is the inside part and the outside part is negative. dc setting if dc volts expected or AC setting for if AC voltage expected
Or get power pack tested at a music shop you may have a faulty power pack

You will need a volt meter, a cheap one is fine, mine was free at a parking lot sale. Set the volt meter to DC Volt, if it gives you choices pick 20 volt. Hook it to the battery see what your readings are should be some where around 11.5 to 12.3, now start the engine ,run at high RPM . Did the voltage go up ? If it went down it is not charging, It should have went up to 13.8 and as high as 15 volt , this settles back down to 13.8 as the battery charges up. Did your rectifier have three in a row flat spades ? If so unplug the three wire plastic holder, the two outside wires on this plug are from under the flywheel, ATTENTION this current will be AC not DC current so set you volt meter to AC ,engine running fast, ground your meter to the engine and check for voltage on the two outside wires on the plug,one at a time, should be 18 volt AC or around on each wire, if so your stator is working . The center wire on the plug is DC . When plugged into the rectifier the two AC currents go through diodes which change it back to DC current and also there is a regulator inside the rectifier that controls the amount of DC Voltage. So follow the middle wire and test it ,I think it goes to the charging meter on dash .

Flywheel. Check for AC voltage on the two outside wires of the voltage regulator with it running. At fast speed, should be 30-40 volts ac. It that is there, then check dc voltage on battery, which should be close to 14 volts dc.

very possible the wrong alternator for the application
some units are internally regulated , some are externally regulated and some are regulated in the ECM
14 volts is not enough for the electronics
has to be 14.5-14.8 volts dc and if you do not use accredited auto electricians they would not have checked for ac or dc voltage
the system told you that what you did is incorrect so now you will have to go to an accredited auto electrician to have the problem sorted

You can probaly test it at the battery. Test the leads that go to the battery with battery disconected you should read about 13.6 dc volts on a voltmeter , if it is 11 or 14 converter is probaly shot . if it is bad locating it can be a hunt. Sometimes they are built in to the bottom of breaker box and other times especially in fifth wheels it will be a stand alone unit inside of a compartment somewhere. If uncomfortable working on electronics seek help from a professional rv tech. Good luck hope this helps.

It sounds like it could be the main power board. If you have 12V going to the board and the fuses are all ok then the power board would be the next item that could cause this issue. I would recomend a dinosaur electronics replacement board. They are a high quality aftermarket product. You will require the P711 board by Dinosaur. ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold

If you light is charging when you use the 12v automotive charger but not when you use your AC power transformer, my thought is that you might have a problem with your AC charger, not with the light itself. I have AC/DC transformers from the 1970s that still work fine, but I have had numerous modern AC/DC transformers burn out on me in recent years.

One easy test is to use a multimeter to measure the output voltage of your wall charger. Place one test lead on each of the charging terminals (i.e., one inside the barrel and one outside the barrel, if you have a standard coaxial charging port) and check the DC reading. If it's zero--or anything less than 12 volts, actually--the charger isn't working correctly. The problem may be a torn or cut wire or something actually inside the transformer.

Replacement chargers can be found at Radio Shack and other stores. You may also be able to score a cheap replacement at a "dollar plus" store or even at a second-hand shop. Make sure that the terminal polarity is correct on your replacement charger or else you'll fry the batteries in your light.

Good luck!

Find the Regulator & unplug. Connect a AC volt meter to the 3 white wires at the connector that is unplugged from the reg. connecting the 2 red & black meter leads to ANY 2 white wires at the plug (colors don't matter with AC. Run the bike & rev up. You should have starting at about 30 volts ac Up to about 90 volts ac reved if the Stator is good. Now move the 2 meter leads to 2 more white connections & check again. Now you have one more pair of white connections to check. Should have the same 90 volts on any of the 3 pairs of whites (3 phases). If they are low, The startor inside the cover is burnt--Replace it. If good, Then the Regulator/Rectifier Unit that rectifies ac to dc & then regulates the output at 14 ~ 14.5 volts DC on the red & ground (Green or black or housing ground) to go to the battery is the only other part that is for charging. You can't test a regulator other than to see if you have 90 v AC going into it & the plugged in it should be showing 14 Volts DC at the battery terminals , Not just 12 volts. Make shure you have a fully charged GOOD battery before tests or the readings will all be off.

i have a hb-208b adapter if any one needs one
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