Question about Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000ES Front Load Washer
I did a sanitize load of towels, then the next load it started filling with water then stopped, then added more water, then stopped. Then the cycle began, and it began to count down, the went back to 45 minutes and turned itself off totally before washing the load. I spun the water out, drained it, and put in a different load, and NOTHING same thing happened, it is only 3 weeks old. I am only half way through the FIRST 64 load HE detergent bottle!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: error messages EFO and E10
could mean two things not getting enough water or the drain hose is too low I had the same problem and my drain hos was down to low if you have it on pedalestals like mine is you drain hose needs to be two inches high than the wash machine
Posted on Oct 08, 2007
The drain filter is clogged. I had the same problem. There is a filter inside the "drain boot" (black) that comes from the drum to the drain pump. Mine was completely clogged with money, lint, etc..
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on what you've described,...you likely need a door lock/switch assembly.
The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, aside from pump's being obstructed.
I think it fool's many people because the lock indicates it is energized on the panel, however the built in "monitor" switch inside the assembly fail's. I do see a lot of these particular machine's...unfortunately.
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **unplug the washer from the wall...safety first of course.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
There is a slim chance of a faulty motor or motor control board, but that would not be where I would direct you to start...those are exceptions rather than the rule.
Thank you for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 12, 2010
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Hello hitman43 - Are the house valves turn on fully? Most common cause is a faulty switch that doesn't allow the value inside turn or a kinked fill hose. Other possibilities can be water valve faults, faulty control board, pressure switch or wiring failure. Contact a professional to move forward accurately.
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