My 1950 Ford 8N tractor w/side mount distributor has been converted to
12 volt. I am using a single wire alternator, 12 volt coil and solenoid. I
have rewired the tractor using 12 guage wire. I converted it to
electronic ignition to eliminate the points. Before doing the rewire the
tractor quit running. At that time the solenoid would click but the
starter would not turn over. I replaced the solenoid and it still clicked
but no start. I replaced the starter and did the rewiring and now
nothing is happening. It has a push button starter on the dash, the
factory one is no longer in use.
The solenoid has two side post, one to hook directly to the battery the
other to the starter. On top two smaller post labeled "I" and "S". I
attached the starter button to "I".It has another wire that runs from
the starter button but I am unsure if that is for a ground or something
else. Does a wire connect to the "S" side of the solenoid and where
does it go.
I used the 12 volt diagram from ntractorclub.com to rewire my tractor.
Battery checks out good.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP....
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: 1950 8N FORD TRACTOR WON"T START.
Hi..my name is Keith..and i have 9 ford tractors..i have 9N's..2N's and 8N's..and i have converted one or two of them over to 12V..and i use the solonid that has only 1 side post...and thats what my original starter swich connects to and on the big terminal i have the battery wire and a 12 gauge wire that i run to the amp meter....i hope this helps..and if you have any questions..please write back
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If it starts but misses meaning it runs but not on all cylinders?.....then,
Are the spark plug wires in the correct firing order?
Are the spark plug wires in good shape?
Is there compression on all cylinders?
If a valve is bad it won't fire smoothly.
If you pull the plugs are any black with carbon?
(a black carbon coated plug will not fire,especially with a 6 volt system)
Is the distributor car attached fully and correctly?
When the distributor cap is off,is there any side play in the distributor shaft?
Is the point gap correct on the points?
Start the tractor cold and feel the spark plugs,the one or two that are colder than the others are the missing cylinders,if two are cold you could try switching those spark plug wires with each other,in case they are mixed up,and if two are missing are side by side you could have a head gasket leak between cylinder problem.
TIP 1, the BEST THING to do on a Ford 8N is to convert it to 12 volts neg ground.Add a alternator,(76 chev pickup alt fits good) leave the starter as it is (it does care if it's positive or neg ground or 12v) and add a 72 dodge ignition resistor in line to a 12 volt coil.(unless your new 12v coil does not need a resistor)
This set up will increase your fuel economy,add power and start instantly in any temp.
TIP 2,you can use unleaded fuel in a Ford 8n as it already has hardened valve seats.
BUT 10% Ethanol fuel is BAD,it can be used, but shut off the fuel at the tank and let the tractor carb run dry before shutting it off if you are not going to use the tractor with in a few days.
You need to check the spark plug wires. Check the continuity with an ohm meter if you have one. Rule of thumb is 10000 ohms resistance for every 12 inches of wire. Also make sure to check the coil as well. This should be located at the other end of the spark plug wires. Hope this helps and good luck.
If you are doing 6 Volts at the distributor you must either have Resistor wiring or a separate resistor in the system. They make both 6Volt and identical 12Volt coils for your unit.
You will eventually burn up a 6Volt coil if you use 12Volts on it. There is an aftermarket company which has Antique supplies. Carpenter(Maybe John) has supplies for Tractors, cars and trucks that are earlier models.
Do a Web search using his name and marry it to Tractor parts, etc.
YOU CAN USE AN 8 VOLT BATTERY, IT SHOULDN'T HURT ANYTHING. THE ONLY THING IS IT WON'T STAY FULLY CHARGED. THE GENERATOR IS DESIGNED FOR A 6 VOLT BATTERY NOT 8 VOLTS. WHAT I DO IS CHANGE THE SYSTEM TO 12 VOLTS. NOTHING WILL HAVE TO BE DONE TO THE STARTER, IF THE TRACTOR STARTS LIKE IT IS SUPPOSED TO. IT WILL JUST START FASTER. YOU WILL NEED NEW POINTS & CONDENSER & A RESISTOR FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR. ALSO A 12 VOLT BATTERY & A MID 1970'S INTERNALLY REGULATED ALTERNATOR, MOUNTED IN PLACE OF THE GENERATOR. THIS A LITTLE WORK BUT THE TRACTOR WILL START AMAZINGLY FAST. I HAVE DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES & IT WORKS GREAT. IF THE FUEL GAUGE STILL WORKS YOU WILL NEED A SPECIAL RESISTOR FOR THAT. OF COURSE ANY LIGHTS WILL HAVE TO BE CHANGED TO 12 VOLT GOOD LUCK. DR. VOLT.
Had the same problem, but was my fault for bypassing the ballist resistor (my bad). Anyway, I fried the coil. Read all the posts and bought new 12 volt coil (it has been converted before I got it 13 years ago). New points, condenser, cap, rotor. Now it is just my timing is a little off, but I have strong sparky but not enough to fry my coil again.
If anything, keep the ballist resistor. it is needed to drop the voltage to the coil so it doesn't fry.
You need a voltmeter or test light to find 12 volts on one side terminal of the coil--the other side terminal goes to the distributor. If both sides have 12 volts, then the points may be dirty. If no 12 volts on the coil, trace that wire back to a resistor block on the firewall--check both ends for 12 volts. If still no 12 volts, check the ignition switch. Have you checked for a blown fuse? Generators are usually nearly totally enclosed and long with several terminals sticking out. Alternators are shorter and wider with lots of ventilation slots and several terminals on the back. They also have a prominent fan behind a smaller pulley. You might see if you can find a Haynes service manual for this car if you are on your own.
This sounds like a bad fuel pump to me. The only way to be sure is to check the fuel pressure when cold, probably around 45 PSI. Then when it get hot it will drop way down to 10 or 15 PSI. Check the pressure if you can, or change the fuel pump.