I just recieved a used pair of these. They were obviously tampered with and were modified from thier original passive setup to a bi-amp configuration. I'm not a slouch with a soldering iron and was fairly confident that I could re-affix the respective leads to thier original factory set up. I first observed the (disregarded) high-end crossover coil with two black wires coming from it leading to a dangling female plug. Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but this should be between the POSITIVE powersource and the horn correct? And, if so, is the + the tip, or the shaft of a 1/4 in. input jack? I know this sounds like a dumb question but any-ones help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, ..... Don
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Bi-wiring basically works wtih one amp. You need a crossover network and a signal doubler to use two amps (bi-amping). There are many diffent ways to bi-amp (horizontal, vertical,...) This link: - -http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize031998.htm-- explains them all. Bi amping is usually not worth the extra price and complexity when used on smaller speakers.
is the difference between bi-wiring and bi-amping?
Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but
connecting that power source to a woofer and a
midrange/tweeter on a
Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers)
connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier
midrange/tweeter on a speaker.
How do I bi-wire?
Your speaker must have two separate positive and negative
connections (one set for the woofer and one set for the
midrange/tweeter). Connect one wire between the positive
the amplifier/receiver the positive terminal on the speaker.
the other wire from the negative terminal on the
to the corresponding negative terminal on the speaker.
jumper straps connecting the two sets of speaker inputs.
process for the second set of terminals on the speaker,
them to the same positive and negative terminals on the
receiver/amplifier. Repeat the steps for each speaker you
Bi-Wire, connecting them to the appropriate terminals on
How do I bi-amp? Bi-amping is similar to bi-wiring, but involves
amplifiers: one for the woofer and one for the
Passive bi-amping involves a direct hookup between each
and the speaker terminals. True bi-amping involves hooking
preamp to an electronic crossover that replaces the passive
crossover network in the speaker. The active crossover then
to multiple power amplifiers.
Line outs Left and Right from mixer to power amp Left and Right inputs, Power amp outs to Subs(if they have passive crossovers built in check specs on subs). From Subs then to Main spkrs. Make sure power amp is set in stereo mode using this way.
Alternative: You will need at least a 2-way stereo crossover unit inline after mixer and before power amps if the subs don't have a built in passive crossover. Most of them do have passive crossovers in the subs these days. Then separate amps or one channel would drive the subs and the other the main speakers. True stereo would require at least a 2 way crossover and two stereo power amps if hooking them up this way.
There is another option as is common with many sub setups. Send the signal to the mains using L/R outputs from mixer and a separate Mono output to the subs only. Putting only bass/kick and low frequency outputs in this send would help too.
If the horn cuts out after some usage ...then its probably the limiter lamp that is gone .... the limiter lamp is switched into circuit once the " polyswitch " gets hot .... so at first the horn works ...then when the limiter lamp is switched in ...nothing !
its just a standard 12volt car tail light lamp ...let me know if this helps