Question about Maytag SAV5710 Top Load Washer
Hi, My 3 year old Maytag SAV5710AWW top-load washer just gave way on its belt (it stopped working and smelled like burning rubber so I took off the front panel to find the belt severed & burned). Motor itself and all 3 pulleys looked to be good. Per Washer_tech's solution suggestion, I replaced the drive belt (PN 27001006 after market part) and installed it with the three T20 torx screws removed on the pump. I looped the belt as illustrated below then screwed the pump back up: ......*** .....*...*..(A): Transmission pulley .....*(A)*..(B): Tension pulley .....*..*....(C): Motor pulley .....*.* .....**(B) .....*.* .....*..* .....*(C)* ......** HOWEVER, when I ran a test cycle (@ mini water level, no extra spin, regular wash), the washer looked fine initially (water IN -> 1st Spin -> Drain), but then during the Wrining cycle, washer started making a high pitch ing-ing sound (like motor running in hyper) and gave off a burning smell (mechanical burn not rubber). I did not find anything wrong with any of the pulleys nor was there any electrical wiring damages inside the control panel nor was there piece of clothing caught btw the agitator and the tub. I know that burning smell and screeching sound has many causes other than the bad belt but I'm now clueless about WHAT. I now know that the belt itself was not the culprit - something else caused the motor to run hyper eventually burning out the rubber. Any idea on other root causes that I should check out and how to get at them? I've heard that motor itself or the sensor may also cause such symptoms but I don't know what steps to take. Pointing me to some Diagrams would greatly help. I'd appreciate FixYa's expert help again! -dealmaster3
A lot of people may be searching for help with horrible sounds and burned belts for Maytag and Admiral washers only a few years old from Home Depot etc. They used a cheap pump that has a corrugated sheetmetal ring that holds the bearings. Well as it runs the vibration and friction cause it to slip down and grind on the pulley as well as not turn easily. If you put the washer on it's back and turn the small pulley and it turns with a gritty feel or you can actually see a loose metal collar type ring thing that looks like a cookie cutte; then you have a bad pump.
There is a small access panel on the back of the washer. Three screws and two spring clips on the hoses and you're done (use big pliers on the hoses). Put the belt back on (just push motor to one side, it's not tight), then check for leaks and reinstall the cover. VOILA! You can find the pump on ebay for $25 or your local GE parts dealers for $50.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
You may very well have a bad thrust bearing in the transmission puley or a worn spin bearing. Either one of these could have caused the belt to overheat and break.
Try this. Start the machine as normal. Does the wash cycle work as it should ? Drain/spin cycle ? Rinse cycle ? Determine wich cycle the machine is in when the high pitch sqeal begins then shut it off.
Will wait for you answer
Posted on Jan 02, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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