Question about Maytag SDG3606A Gas Dryer

3 Answers

Gas dryer starts initially , runs ok till burner shuts off

After initial start and run time, burner shuts off for a short time. relite starts ignitor is energized but the gas valve does not open. looks like some interlock or cycling function is not working properly. I have the wiring diagram can you direct me to the faulty part? maytag SDG3606AWW

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  • pellis8689 Apr 12, 2009

    dryer stsrts up initially ok so the flame sensor and gas valves are working ok. this is not the problem

  • pellis8689 Apr 12, 2009

    since the dryer starts up initially burner on etc the flame sensor and gas valve must be ok but i checked the gas valve coil resistance as you suggested. all ok 1365,560 and1220 ohms. something else is the problem

  • pellis8689 Apr 12, 2009

    not the problem see my prior reply

  • pellis8689 Apr 13, 2009

    Magtag SGD3606AWW dryer starts up initially ok. flame on etc. flame shuts off on cycling thermostst I guess. when re lite is atemoted ignitor glows red but no gas on for ignition. I purchased your $9.99 premium assist package but offered no help. your assist package offered help till the problem is found. hou do I proceed?

  • pellis8689 Apr 13, 2009

    maytag SDG3606AWW dryer starts up fine flame on ok upon cycling relite ignitor glows red but no flame on. what is the problem

  • pellis8689 Apr 13, 2009

    not the problem same issues please advise

  • pellis8689 Apr 13, 2009

    checked all per your instructions dryer will not recycle on. to repeat initially it starts up ok burner lites so gas valves & ignitor circuit must be ok on relite attempt ignitor glows red but the gas valves do not open. what is wrong?

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3 Answers

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On the gas valve you will see two coils when you see the igniter glow test for magnitesim with a screw driver on top of the gas valve stems .the coils go open when they get hot and shut the gas down.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

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Sometimes the problem is as simple as checking the exhaust duct. You may have lint building up in the duct and even in the back of the dryer at the exhaust hole. When the dryer gets at a certain temp, it says "Clothes are dry"

After checking the vent - Three other most likely causes is either the solenoids on top of the gas control valve, the gas valve or the radiant flame sensor on the burner flame hood.

Ohm test the flame sensor with electrical power to dryer turned off or machine unplugged. Ohm meter should show a closed circuit. (Needle swings all the way over to right side of meter.) If circuit closed, sensor is okay.

Solenoids on top of gas valve may be defective. There are two. Any one of them fails both get replaced. Sold and installed in pairs only. Remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

To accomplish this task, the entire burner and gas valve must be removed. Then the solenoid coils can be removed from the top of the gas valve and replaced.

The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.

There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs.

Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions inclosed in the packages.

Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve. This is a non repairable item. Replacement is the only option, if defective.


Finally - your problem may indicate a bad Temperature Selector Switch.if the unit must cool down for 20 min or so then operates again.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

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  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Apr 13, 2009

    SGD3606AWW is not a vaild (or too old) dryer, and not listed on Maytag site or parts supply stores so I cannot provide you a link for spare parts.







    As you were told initially from my last answer - the solenoids on the gas valve are likely bad if the igniter is glowing, but the gas is not igniting.







    Quoting from my original answer -



    "After checking the vent - Three other most likely causes is either the solenoids on top of the gas control valve, the gas valve or the radiant flame sensor on the burner flame hood.

    Ohm test the flame sensor with electrical power to dryer turned off or machine unplugged. Ohm meter should show a closed circuit. (Needle swings all the way over to right side of meter.) If circuit closed, sensor is okay.

    Solenoids on top of gas valve may be defective. There are two. Any one of them fails both get replaced. Sold and installed in pairs only. Remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

    To accomplish this task, the entire burner and gas valve must be removed. Then the solenoid coils can be removed from the top of the gas valve and replaced.

    The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.

    There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.

    Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs.

    Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

    Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions inclosed in the packages."








    Please replace BOTH at the same time.

    Thanks for using FixYa.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Apr 13, 2009

    Components:

    Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
    Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
    When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
    Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
    Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
    The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.

    Operation:

    At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
    (NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
    The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

    Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

    Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
    Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
    Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
    With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
    So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
    It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

    Testing the Coils:

    If you look closely at the coils, one has three terminals on it and we will test this one first. With the coil out of the dryer and the terminals on top facing you, the first terminal on the left is number one, the middle is two and the right side terminal is number 3. Using your ohm meter, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. You should get a reading of 1365 ohms or - 25 ohms. Next, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3. You should get a reading of 560 ohms or - 25 ohms. The next coil only has two terminals and it should have a resistance of 1220 ohms or - 50 ohms. Keep in mind when testing these coils, they should be tested at room temperature. If you have run the dryer and they are warm or hot, the resistance reading will be different.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Apr 13, 2009

    This is most likely one side of the gas valve opening up. Normal, but you need the other side to open up to get gas flowing to the burner. This won't happen if the radiant sensor or secondary coil (on gas valve) is broke.


    CHANGE BOTH COILS (SOLENOIDS) TO END YOUR PROBLEM !!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Apr 13, 2009

    The burner assembly consists of the gas valve, the igniter and sensor, and the thermostats. The gas supplied to the appliance is turned on and off by the gas valve, as follows:



    • First--when you close the dryer door, set the timer, and press or turn the Start button--the motor starts. When it reaches full speed (in about a second) a switch on the motor turns on, which allows the electricity to flow through a simple thermostat to one side of the gas valve.


    • The gas valve then sends power to the igniter, which glows bright orange.


    • As heat and light from the igniter warm up a sensor that's right next to the igniter, the sensor circuit opens, then supplies power to the other side of the gas valve. This completes the circuit and opens the valve.


    • Once the valve opens, the gas rushes out and the igniter ignites it. As the gas burns, it keeps the sensor warm, which keeps the gas flowing.


    • When the dryer reaches the pre-set drying temperature, a simple thermostat turns off the flow of electricity to the gas valve and therefore turns off the gas.


    • When the temperature in the dryer falls about 20 to 30 degrees, the thermostat again allows the electricity to flow through to the gas valve, and the cycle starts over.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Apr 13, 2009

    Have you replaced the solenoids???

    And the problem remains???

    Or do you just feel that is not the answer???

    I have given you many troubleshooting steps and directed you toward the gas valve - yet you keep saying that is not the problem.



    When the Igniter glows - and there is no ignition - One of the Gas Relays is not functioning properly. ESPECIALLY after it has been running - then shuts down - because the relay is warm and the coil has thermally expanded.



    Please replace the solenoids - IF they can be obtained - it will be at your local parts store - I have checked online resources, and they have no record of your Dryer.

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  • 291 Answers

Typically, it has been the coil of the gas valve that died. You can 
tell by pulling the kick panel and watching the action while it tries to 
start. the unit will sense 
the temperature of the glow bar and you should hear a click as the gas 
valve opens. Once the gas ignites, it senses the higher temperature and 
keeps the gas valve open. (An alternate control system just turns on 
the glow bar for a preset number of seconds and opens the gas valve. If 
it then senses heat from the flame, the valve stays open, if not, it 
closes the valve. This is known as single stage detection.)
 turn off the gas to the house and promptly replace the dryer valve with the correct one. 
click the link directly to get the detailed info-- http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/13/converting-a-gas-dryer-from-natural-gas-to-propane/
you asked for the part shown in the diagram which to replace so click this another link too http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYgasdryermvalves.htm

keep updated.please do accept the solution. thank you for using fixya. thanks.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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