Question about Dewalt dw3988 14tpi portable band saw blade - 44-7/8", .025" - 3 pack

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My center piece on the table will not line upor go back into the table top of my Delta 14" Bandsaw when I use a bigger blade. What should I do to correct?

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Can you turn it 180 degrees so the slot faces the other direction?
If not, (because of the notch), you'll need to readjust your guides...You probably should anyway..
Begin by backing off the bearing behind the blade that keeps the blade from riding farther back into the outfeed table. Then loosen the guide blocks and adjust the upper wheel so that when the blade tracks on the tire, the cutting edge is just forward of the center of the tire, (where the cutting edge of the narrow blade tracked). Once you have the blade running smoothly, bring the guide blocks in close to the sides, and adjust the back bearing so it just barely spins when the blade is freewheeling, and provides support when a cut is made.
You may have to adjust these instructions slightly to account for what's available with your saw, but that's basically the method for making the blade track in the center of the knockout.


I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!




Posted on Apr 13, 2009

  • efs_perpends
    efs_perpends Apr 13, 2009

    Can you turn it 180 degrees so the slot faces the other direction?
    If not, (because of the notch), you'll need to readjust your guides...You probably should anyway..
    Begin by backing off the bearing behind the blade that keeps the blade from riding farther back into the outfeed table. Then loosen the guide blocks and adjust the upper wheel so that when the blade tracks on the tire, the cutting edge is just forward of the center of the tire, (where the cutting edge of the narrow blade tracked). Once you have the blade running smoothly, bring the guide blocks in close to the sides, and adjust the back bearing so it just barely spins when the blade is freewheeling, and provides support when a cut is made.
    You may have to adjust these instructions slightly to account for what's available with your saw, but that's basically the method for making the blade track in the center of the knockout.


    I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
    If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!





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Sounds like your table is tilted. Put a small square on the table against the blade, then adj the table to it. If that is not it, then the blade guides are off up and down, back off all the guides, wheels, turn the blade by hand, get it tracking in the center of the tire, then bring the bearings up the blade, don't push it , just touch it, then bring in the guides, again, make sure it doesn't push it, the guides stop it from going off, it should track by itself. Hope this helps.

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It might help you also to google Dunlap & PowerKing for the manual.
As far as tuning it up goes...
Check each of the wheels' "bearings" to begin with, to ensure they are running smoothly and as true as possible, without end play or wobble. Then use straightedges and flat jointed boards to line up the three pulleys as much in a single flat plane as possible, by shifting shims, etc. (It may behoove you to remove the table out of the picture to begin with, if possible, so you can get the wheels lined up well with one another, then replace the table once the blade will track.)
The adjustments on a three wheel system can be a little more delicate and temperamental than on a standard 14" bandsaw, so be moderate in your tracking adjustments, and crank the wheels by hand to begin with as you work the tension up on the blade, checking constantly to keep the blade running as close to the center of all three tires as possible. Don't worry about the blade guides at all until you get the blade running on the wheels well. Then move the backed off guide blocks and backing bearings into place. They are meant, after all, to keep the blade from deflecting, not to force it into position.
That's my quick advice for how to tune it up.
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I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

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When making a straight cut with my bandsaw, the blade will


Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order:
  1. First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing nut in the back).
  2. Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front), so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides against the blade.
  3. Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight.
At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift".
But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line.
If you follow these tips and they prove helpful, please let us know your problem is solved. Otherwise, give us a little more detail and someone will be happy to follow up.

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