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Installation of the Graff pop up drain plug

How to install the Graff pop up drain plug which has a bolt that sticks down with a nut. Is there a way to adjust. If not, it doesn't work very well.


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If you losen the nut the bolt is adjustable make sure you tighten nut

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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How do i repair a leaking bathroom drain


This can be difficult if the drain is old or if Hercules overtightened the ring during installation. This sounds like you have a pop-up type drain and here's how you do it. You will need a 12" pair of channel type pliers, a 6" pair of pliers and a flat screwdriver. First put a pan under the trap, and remove the three nuts holding trap together. The trap is full of water so remove carefully. Now disconnect the pop-up rod on the faucet from the pivot rod on the drain by sliding the spring clip off. Unscrew the pivot rod nut and remove pivot rod that sticks out of drain. Now your plunger is disengaged and you can pull it out of the top of the drain. Next, using big pliers you loosen the hex nut under the sink. Uscrew nut all the way down until it reaches where the pivot nut screws on. Pry rubber gasket and friction washer out of the sink all the way down. Now push entire assembly upward. If the drain is not old, you don't have hard water, was properly installed, and the stars align properly, you can just unscrew the chrome ring by hand. You may have to use the big pliers to unscrew it, or, hopefully not, sawzalls are awful handy. Good luck.

Feb 17, 2015 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Radiator installation on 2003 Kia Sorento


That is a VERY easy radiator.
Loosen radiator drain plug and drain coolant from radiator.
Disconnect cooling fan connectorsRemove upper and lower radiator hoses after marking them to ease installation.
For vehicles equipped with automatic transaxles, disconnect transmission cooler lines at transaxle.
Remove air conditioner condenser fixing bolts and radiator bracket fixing nuts.
Remove the radiator, radiator cooling fan, air conditioning cooling fan and transmission cooler lines from the vehicle as an assembly.
Transfer all necessary parts (fan assemblies, cooler lines, clips, speed nuts, fittings, etc.) to the new radiator.

Reverse procedure to install.

Fill and bleed cooling system.

Apr 14, 2012 | 2003 Kia Sorento

1 Answer

I need to know how to seperate my transmission from my block


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
AOD
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle on hoist or stands.
  3. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter.
  5. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  7. On 2WD drive models, matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
  10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  12. Remove the two bolts securing the bell crank bracket to the converter housing.
  13. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.
  14. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  15. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  16. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
  17. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  18. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  19. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  20. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
  21. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  22. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture.
  23. Tighten the converter drain plug. To install:
  24. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  25. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  26. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.
  27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
  29. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
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Nov 03, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

How does transmission come out


prev.gif next.gif Transmission Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
  3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
  4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
  5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
  6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
  13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
  14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
  15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
  16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
  17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
  18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
  20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
  21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
  22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
  23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
  24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
  25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
  26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
  27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
  28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
  30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
  31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
  32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
  33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

1 Answer

Fuel filter


I have hereby given the procedure to replace the fuel filter

#1 Raise and support the car on jackstands.
#2 Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan.
#3 Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
#4 Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
#5 Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
#6 With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
#7 Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
#8 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
#9 Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
#10 Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.

May 09, 2010 | 1992 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Installation instructions for a Glacier Bay Westminster pedistal sink


Things You'll Need:
  • channel lock pliers, mini tubing cutter, tubing cutter for 1 1/2" tubing razor knife, 24"level drill, 3/16"dia. drill bit
  • 3/8" drive ratchet and sockets, tape measure, Teflon tape, 8" adjustable wrench, black sharpie, small edges (cedar wood shakes) 3/8"x 3" anchor bolts, pedestal sink, faucet with pop up drain, P-Trap,
  • sponge, rags,
  • lavatory supplies
1
The location for the pedestal sink will need to be prepared for installation. Wood backing has to be installed behind the drywall to give the pedestal sink something solid to attach to. Don't skimp on this wood you want enough wood so the sink doesn't move the wood by someone leaning on the sink. Use the dimensions from the installation instructions or set the basin on top of the pedestal and measure for the location of the wood to be installed.
  • Step 2 The drain for the sink needs to be set just right so that the finish work will go together easier. When setting the drain make the threads for the trap adapter stick out just past the finished wall. If the threads stick out to far then the escutcheon will not fit up tight to the wall. So check the depth of the trap adapter threads before putting the sink in place.
  • Step 3 Press the small foam pads adhesive side down on top of the pedestal. With the faucet and pop-up drain mounted on the basin place the basin on top of the pedestal. Move both pieces together up against the wall with the drain centered with the sink. Check the pedestal for level. If it is not level use the cedar wood shakes as wedges to make the pedestal level. Don't cut the cedar shakes yet this will be done later. Now adjust the basin to make it level as well. With the sink centered and level mark the points where the anchor bolts will go through the china into the wall. Many pedestal sinks come with a wall mounting bracket if yours does then slide the bracket up under the sink and make it tight up against the wall and the china. Be careful not to move the basin, if you have someone to help you have them hold the sink in position while you're doing this. Now mark the holes in the bracket where the anchor bolts will hold the bracket to the wall.
  • Step 4 Move the pedestal sink out of the way. Use the drill with the 3/16"dia. drill bit to drill pilot holes on the marks that you made. Next screw in the anchor bolts into the pilot holes. Make the wall mounting bracket tight to the wall. The anchor bolts that go through the china need to be removed.
  • Step 5 Take the lavatory supplies and wrap the tops of them with Teflon tape. This will create a gasket like seal. Attach the supplies to the bottom of he faucet. Make sure to get a good tight connection you don't want these to be leaking later on. Next take the J-bend portion of the P-trap and slip it on the tailpiece of the pop-up drain. Measure the height of the center of the drain where it sticks out of the wall. With the basin sitting on top of the pedestal put the p-trap together and make the trap arm the same height as the drain pipe. Mark the top of the J-bend on the tailpiece so you have a reference mark. Next take the basin off of the pedestal and tighten the slip nut on the J-bend. Make this connection secure it will be very difficult to get to this connection later on.
  • Step 6 Move the pedestal into position and set the basin on top of the pedestal. Check the small adhesive pads if they have fallen off stick them back in place. Line up the holes in the china with the holes in the wall and screw in the anchor bolts. Don't tighten these yet you still have to adjust the basin and level the pedestal. Put the cedar wedges back in place to level the pedestal and adjust the basin. Now that everything is level tighten the anchor bolts. Be careful not to over tighten the bolts they could crack the sink.
  • Step 7 Use the tape measure2_bing.gif and measure from the center of the J-bend opening to the trap adapter. Add about 1 1/4" to this measurement so some of the trap arm will be inside the adapter. Cut the trap arm to length with the tubing cutter. Next slip on the slip nuts and washers and don't forget the escutcheon. Install the trap arm. Catch the slip nuts with your fingers and tighten as much as possible by hand. Tighten the rest of the way with the channel lock pliers. You'll notice the first nut on the J-bend is almost impossible to get to that is why you must tighten it before you set the sink.
  • Step 8 Take the lavatory supplies and gently bend them to line up with the supply valve connections. Now mark the supplies where they will fit into the compression joint on the valves. Use the mini tubing cutter and cut on your marks. Slip the compression nuts and ferrules onto the supplies and put the supplies into the valves. Catch the nuts with your fingers and tighten by hand. Now finish tightening with the adjustable wrench2_bing.gif.
  • Step 9 Remove the aerator from the spout of the faucet. Turn on the hot and cold supply valves and run the water in the sink to flush out the lines. When the water runs clear put the aerator back into the spout. Close the pop-up drain and fill the basin with water. While it is filling check underneath the sink for any leaks and repair them if necessary. When the basin is full open the pop-up drain and let the water out. Check under the sink once more for any leaks and repair them.
  • Step 10 Use the razor knife to cut off the excess cedar wood that sticks out past the china on the pedestal. Next caulk around the base of the pedestal where it meets the floor. Also caulk along the top edge of the basin where the basin meets the wall. Dampen the sponge and wipe off the excess caulk to make a smooth caulked joint. Clean up and admire your handy work.
  • Mar 30, 2010 | Pegasus Technologies Home

    1 Answer

    How do I replace the bath sink stopper lift using a Danco universal kit


    Things You'll Need:
    • channel lock pliers, mini tubing cutter, tubing cutter for 1 1/2" tubing razor knife, 24"level drill, 3/16"dia. drill bit
    • 3/8" drive ratchet and sockets, tape measure, Teflon tape, 8" adjustable wrench, black sharpie, small edges (cedar wood shakes) 3/8"x 3" anchor bolts, pedestal sink, faucet with pop up drain, P-Trap,
    • sponge, rags,
    • lavatory supplies
    • Step 1 The location for the pedestal sink will need to be prepared for installation. Wood backing has to be installed behind the drywall to give the pedestal sink something solid to attach to. Don't skimp on this wood you want enough wood so the sink doesn't move the wood by someone leaning on the sink. Use the dimensions from the installation instructions or set the basin on top of the pedestal and measure for the location of the wood to be installed.
    • Step 2 The drain for the sink needs to be set just right so that the finish work will go together easier. When setting the drain make the threads for the trap adapter stick out just past the finished wall. If the threads stick out to far then the escutcheon will not fit up tight to the wall. So check the depth of the trap adapter threads before putting the sink in place.
    • Step 3 Press the small foam pads adhesive side down on top of the pedestal. With the faucet and pop-up drain mounted on the basin place the basin on top of the pedestal. Move both pieces together up against the wall with the drain centered with the sink. Check the pedestal for level. If it is not level use the cedar wood shakes as wedges to make the pedestal level. Don't cut the cedar shakes yet this will be done later. Now adjust the basin to make it level as well. With the sink centered and level mark the points where the anchor bolts will go through the china into the wall. Many pedestal sinks come with a wall mounting bracket if yours does then slide the bracket up under the sink and make it tight up against the wall and the china. Be careful not to move the basin, if you have someone to help you have them hold the sink in position while you're doing this. Now mark the holes in the bracket where the anchor bolts will hold the bracket to the wall.
    • Step 4 Move the pedestal sink out of the way. Use the drill with the 3/16"dia. drill bit to drill pilot holes on the marks that you made. Next screw in the anchor bolts into the pilot holes. Make the wall mounting bracket tight to the wall. The anchor bolts that go through the china need to be removed.
    • Step 5 Take the lavatory supplies and wrap the tops of them with Teflon tape. This will create a gasket like seal. Attach the supplies to the bottom of he faucet. Make sure to get a good tight connection you don't want these to be leaking later on. Next take the J-bend portion of the P-trap and slip it on the tailpiece of the pop-up drain. Measure the height of the center of the drain where it sticks out of the wall. With the basin sitting on top of the pedestal put the p-trap together and make the trap arm the same height as the drain pipe. Mark the top of the J-bend on the tailpiece so you have a reference mark. Next take the basin off of the pedestal and tighten the slip nut on the J-bend. Make this connection secure it will be very difficult to get to this connection later on.
    • Step 6 Move the pedestal into position and set the basin on top of the pedestal. Check the small adhesive pads if they have fallen off stick them back in place. Line up the holes in the china with the holes in the wall and screw in the anchor bolts. Don't tighten these yet you still have to adjust the basin and level the pedestal. Put the cedar wedges back in place to level the pedestal and adjust the basin. Now that everything is level tighten the anchor bolts. Be careful not to over tighten the bolts they could crack the sink.
    • Step 7 Use the tape measure2_bing.gif and measure from the center of the J-bend opening to the trap adapter. Add about 1 1/4" to this measurement so some of the trap arm will be inside the adapter. Cut the trap arm to length with the tubing cutter. Next slip on the slip nuts and washers and don't forget the escutcheon. Install the trap arm. Catch the slip nuts with your fingers and tighten as much as possible by hand. Tighten the rest of the way with the channel lock pliers. You'll notice the first nut on the J-bend is almost impossible to get to that is why you must tighten it before you set the sink.
    • Step 8 Take the lavatory supplies and gently bend them to line up with the supply valve connections. Now mark the supplies where they will fit into the compression joint on the valves. Use the mini tubing cutter and cut on your marks. Slip the compression nuts and ferrules onto the supplies and put the supplies into the valves. Catch the nuts with your fingers and tighten by hand. Now finish tightening with the adjustable wrench2_bing.gif.
    • Step 9 Remove the aerator from the spout of the faucet. Turn on the hot and cold supply valves and run the water in the sink to flush out the lines. When the water runs clear put the aerator back into the spout. Close the pop-up drain and fill the basin with water. While it is filling check underneath the sink for any leaks and repair them if necessary. When the basin is full open the pop-up drain and let the water out. Check under the sink once more for any leaks and repair them.
    • Step 10 Use the razor knife to cut off the excess cedar wood that sticks out past the china on the pedestal. Next caulk around the base of the pedestal where it meets the floor. Also caulk along the top edge of the basin where the basin meets the wall. Dampen the sponge and wipe off the excess caulk to make a smooth caulked joint. Clean up and admire your handy work.

    Mar 30, 2010 | Home

    1 Answer

    INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO INSTALL ALTERNATOR 01 DODGE CARAVAN


    Removal & Installation (2.4L)
    Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect air temperature sensor harness connector. Remove air
    cleaner assembly. Remove evaporative purge solenoid from bracket, and position aside. Disconnect
    field harness connector from generator. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire from generator. Remove
    accessory drive belt. Remove generator mounting bolts. Remove generator. To install, reverse
    removal procedure. Tighten fasteners to specification.

    Removal & Installation (3.3L & 3.8L)
    Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect field harness connector from generator. Remove B+
    terminal nut and wire from generator. Raise and support vehicle. Remove right front lower splash
    shield. Remove accessory drive belt. Remove lower engine oil dip stick mounting bolt, located near
    engine oil filter. Remove harness from engine oil dip stick. Remove 3 generator mounting bolts.
    Lower vehicle. Remove engine oil dip stick tube from vehicle. Roll and remove generator. To install,
    reverse removal procedure. Tighten fasteners to specification. See

    Jan 12, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

    1 Answer

    Installation.


    Get under the sink inside the cabinet to do this. First, take loose and remove the connection of the arm that goes into the drain tail piece. It is on the back side of the drain piece and connects to the rod that you pull up on the faucet when you close the drain. Next, loosen and remove the nut on the back side of the drain tail piece that holds the drain lever in place. When you remove this, it will allow the old pop up plug to be removed. You put the new pop up plug in by reversing the proceedure. Make sure the rod gets inserted into the new drain pop up and the nut is snug enough to make a water tight seal when you reassemble it. Reconnect the pull rod and you are done.

    Oct 12, 2009 | Moen 103459 Drain Pop-UP Plug

    2 Answers

    05 susuki forenza


    Removal Procedure
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Drain the engine oil from the engine crankcase.
    3. Remove the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts from
    the exhaust manifold.
    4. Remove the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts from
    the catalytic converter or the connecting pipe.
    5. Remove the exhaust flex pipe.
    6. Remove the oil pan flange–to–transaxle retaining
    bolts.
    7. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.
    8. Remove the oil pan from the engine block.
    Cleaning Procedure
    1. Clean the oil pan sealing surface.
    2. Clean the engine block sealing surface.
    3. Clean the oil pan retaining bolts.
    4. Clean the oil pan attaching bolt holes in the engine
    block.
    5. Clean the oil pan scraper.
    Installation Procedure
    1. Coat the new oil pan gasket with sealant.
    Important : Install the oil pan within 5 minutes after applying
    the liquid gasket to the oil pan.
    2. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
    3. Install the oil pan retaining bolts.
    Tighten
    Tighten the oil pan retaining bolts to 10 NSm (89 lb–in).
    4. Install the oil pan flange–to–transaxle retaining
    bolts.
    Tighten
    Tighten the oil pan flange–to–transaxle bolts to 40
    NSm (30 lb–ft).
    5. Install the exhaust flex pipe.
    6. Install the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts to the
    exhaust manifold.
    Tighten
    Tighten the exhaust flex pipe–to–exhaust manifold
    retaining nuts to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
    7. Install the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts to the
    catalytic converter or the connecting pipe.
    Tighten
    Tighten the exhaust flex pipe–to–catalytic converter
    or connecting pipe retaining nuts to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
    8. Connect the negative battery cable.
    9. Install the oil pan drain plug.
    Tighten
    Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
    10. Refill the engine crankcase with engine oil.

    Jun 14, 2008 | 2005 Suzuki Forenza

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