Question about Rowenta Powerglide DE011 Iron with Auto Shut-off

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Wiring diagram for Rowenta DE-05

I took the iron apart for cleaning and installing a new cord and neglected to note which wire goes where. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this iron?

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I took the iron apart for cleaning and installing a new cord and neglected to note which wire goes where. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this iron?

Posted on Sep 26, 2010

  • leym Feb 01, 2011

    Did anyone find this wiring diagram for the Rowenta iron? I have the same problem.
    Thanks.

  • girls2good Jul 15, 2013

    I am also in need of this wiring diagram. This iron is to expensive to replace

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I have a DE-05 that needs a new cord and cleaning of steam discharge holes. I'll be gald to take photos and send them to you if you'll share your source for parts and method of disassembly. Contact me at chuxbizAThotmail.com, just replace the AT with @.

Thanks,
Chuck Jones

Posted on May 30, 2009

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1 Answer

Replace cord in Rowenta Iron


0) Unplug the iron.

1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.

2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".

3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!

4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.

5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.

6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).

7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...

8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.

9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.

10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).

11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.

12) Plug in the iron and test it out!

Mar 23, 2014 | Rowenta Irons

1 Answer

My Rowenta Power Glide DE-08 iron has stopped working. Once, if I moved the cord around it worked. So I I took it apart and checked the wiring connection which seemed to be tight. I then plugged it in...


hi.

you will probably find that the cable is broken where it comes out of the iron.
this is not an unusual problem as the wire is being constantly bent and straightened here, and eventually breaks.

take the iron apart as you did before to check the connections, and cut of the last 4-5 inches of the cable and reconnect in exactly the same way it is now.
this should cure the problem.

hope this helps

Jun 18, 2011 | Rowenta Powerglide DE08 Iron

1 Answer

My wife has a Sunbeam iron handed down from her Grandmother so it is possibly fifty years or more old. It is a model A-4. The iron works well. I just want to replace the cord. How do I take it apart? I am...


try to open the terminal box then loosen the screw for line 1 and then the line 2 if you replace the cord see to ti that you wire installed is the same size on old wire.to avoid over loading.

Feb 25, 2011 | Sunbeam Irons

1 Answer

Panaonic NI-R73NR Iron suddenly stopped working. Uses a small PCB with OEG PCD-124D2M relay which produces a sound when shaken as if some metal item is moving inside. Can this PCB be entirely replaced? Is...


Okay, here's what fixed mine. But first, understand this is a $23 iron and it may not be worth your effort. I'm an engineer and like fixing things, and I hate throwing stuff into the landfill, so I took the time to repair mine. If you can use a screwdriver and are good at taking things apart (and putting them back together) this will take less than an hour. NOTE: I often make use of a digital camera while taking things apart. Take a picture of things as you go, so you can see how to put them back together later.

The problem is the switch is corroded, from oxidation or carbon buildup, or both. Getting to it is most of the trouble. Follow these instructions:
1. Unplug the iron (helpful hint for the simple-minded. Can't iron if you're dead.) Dump out any water that's in it.
2. Remove two phillips-head screws from bottom of cord winder at base of iron.
3. Pull cord winder housing away from iron to expose electrical wiring.
4. Remove the small gray insulator card from it's slot to expose the screws that attach all the wires.
5. A red, blue, and black wire go up into the handle and attach to the shut-off circuit board. Tug on them gently to slide the circuit board out of the handle, remembering which side is up.
6. There's a screw inside the handle. Look where the circuit card came out and you'll see it in there. Use a screwdriver to remove it. Now you can lift up on the back of the small curved cover where the steam and squirt buttons are, and it will come off. Don't lose the steam setting button, it may fall off.
7. Now you can see the water jet nozzle. Lift it out of the way to find a screw under there. Take that screw out. I call this screw #1 for a reason.
8. There are three screws in the back of the iron, near the wires. They hold the iron together. Left and right are like screw #1. Take them out. The other one is a machine screw that's in the center, going down into the base. Take it out.
9. You can now lift the plastic part of the iron up off the metal part and set it aside. On top of the black plastic where screw #1 went through, near the pointy end of the iron, there should be a small washer. Locate it and set it aside. You'll want to make sure it gets back where it belongs when you reassemble.
10. There is a lamp that turns on when the iron is heating. It has two fine bare wires, a copper one (on the right if the iron is lying flat and you're looking at the base), and a silver one to the left. Find the screw where the silver one attaches and loosen that screw. Gently pull that wire off the screw. Note the routing of that silver wire around the black plastic, including where the tube insulator on the wire lays-- you will need to put this back right later. Lift the lamp out and the silver wire so it's more or less sticking up in line with the screw where the copper wire attaches. This will facilitate the next step.
11. Separate the black plastic cover from the brass-colored metal iron base by lifting at the pointy end of the iron. The wires will try to hang you up in the back, but if you wiggle things just right you'll be able to get them mostly separated. The lamp will need to descend down through the black plastic where the wires go as you lift the plastic cover off. As you lift it off, look inside. You can see where the rotary switch is inside there.
12. So here's the deal: the rotary switch controls a thermostatic set of contacts. This means there's metal in there that bends as it gets hot; the hotter, the more it bends. This controls your iron's temperature. When it bends enough, it opens a set of "points", which are tiny cylindrical contacts at the bottom of the rotary switch mechanism. Put on your glasses and look under the mechanism as you rotate the rotary control and you'll see them click open and closed. You need to clean them.
13. Get a small strip of fine sandpaper (400 grit or finer), about 1/4" wide and 2" long. Turn the control until the points are open and slip the sandpaper in between them. Now turn the switch the other way to get the points to close on the sandpaper. Pull the sandpaper back and forth between the points; that'll clean the contact on the gritty side of the paper. Now open the points again, pull the sandpaper out, flip it over, put it back in, and close the points. Now another few pulls on the paper to clean the other contact.
14.Remove the sandpaper. Put the iron back together in reverse order. Some things to watch out for: When you put the black plastic part back down onto the metal iron base, you'll need to make sure the wires and the lamp go the right way. You also need to make sure that the grey rubber grommet that lets water from the plastic tank down into the heated elements is properly pushed up through the hole in the black plastic. If you have trouble seating the black plastic onto the metal iron base, it's probably because that grommet is stuck halfway through the hole. Make sure you put the steam selector button back where it goes before you put the curved cover onto the top of the plastic tank. Getting the screw up through the hollow handle and into the hole it goes into can be tricky. I held the phillips screwdriver point-up and set the screw on top. Then I held the iron point-up and slowly put the screw up through the handle and into the hole. This might take a couple of tries; be patient-- you'll get it. Be sure to put the circuit card back into the handle the right way. Finally, be VERY SURE to route the lamp wires through the plastic parts correctly, and also make sure that you have correctly routed the red, blue, and black wires from the circuit card correctly before you re-install the cord winder housing.

Good luck!

Nov 22, 2010 | Panasonic NI-R73NR Iron

1 Answer

I have to jiggle the cord for the iron to heat.


Hi,
The cord is broken right where it eters the iron...
Take it apart, mark the wires, cut the cord bach 6 inches and reattach it...
Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not



heatman101

Aug 18, 2010 | Rowenta Irons

1 Answer

Cord


If the iron is still in warranty send it back via the shop where you bought it, the inner wire is frayed and needs replacement, if you know an electrician its as simple as shortening the flex by a few inches and reattaching it again. the inner wires twist with time and become frayed or come loose from connection

Mar 24, 2010 | Black & Decker Steam Xpress AS250 Iron...

1 Answer

Steam button on iron has stopped working yet iron still heats up and light on boiler still goes on.


this just happened to us & the electronics man at my husband's plant took it apart & said the thermostat needs replaced. the wires were all eaten up so to speak

Jun 10, 2009 | Rowenta Steam Generator DG050 Iron

1 Answer

Wiring digram for Panasonic NI-A57SR Iron


Same issue i believe
with metal part laying flat (ironing position) and looking at bottom side, from the left to the right - white & blue leads, lamp(resistor lead), red then both black leads and other end of lamp.
im guessing the themal fuse is the lamp? what is the PN where can i get it.

i had a small shere fall out of the unit, besides the positioning switch where else would this be located?
Thanks

Dec 13, 2008 | Panasonic NI-A57SR Iron with Auto Shut-off

1 Answer

When i am ironing all the power in the house goes off and it is a brand new iron


Patrick,
The iron may actually be ok. If not, remember that because it's new it will come with a guarantee.

Did you put the plug onto the iron yourself? Check inside the plug to make sure that there's no bare wires that can touch as the cord flexes as you iron. This would cause it to short and throw the power in the house.

Try using the iron in a different room. If you get the same problem then there's possibly a wiring fault (maybe a broken/worn insulation on the wires of the iron cord ... though as it's new, I would doubt this).

Are you using an electrical extension lead to plug the iron into? If you haven't overloaded the socket with other electrical appliances it may be that the extension cable has a broken/faulty/loose wire inside that when they touch, causes the power to go off. A few years ago the power in my house used to go off on occasions whenever someone went to the fridge. The fault was traced to split insulation on one of the wires in the extension cable I was using. Whenever somebody stood on the cable it shorted out and cut the power.

To be really sure - go into a neighbours and use the iron! If the power goes off - it's the iron at fault. If not, it's probably just a small problem like worn insulation/loose/broken wire in an extension lead in your own house.

Sep 19, 2008 | Conair Compact Garment Steamer Iron

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