Sounds like a voltage regulator to me. the speaker would not have anything to do with the transmit, the receive yes but, with no transmit or receive try the voltage regulator number on it will be ta7217 it will have roughly 10 legs on it and it will be attached to a heat sink or the chassis of the radio. also you might look at where the antenna wire connector screws on to the radio, on the inside of the radio on the back of the connector there should be a wire coming from the back of the plug and connecting to the circuit board , it could have came loose. Good luck.
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check your final for voltage, work your way from IC 1 on up then check audio transistor . Work your way through the transmit section then the receive section . Check your volume control ,make sure its working alright Just have patience and it might jump right out at you.
Since the radio cannot transmit on Weather bands, there is no need for the radio to detect if it is transmitting when receiving weather.
In CB mode (on CB channels) the radio will mute when transmitting. So... a guess is that it is muting, or transmitting all the time in CB mode. Check for a mic problem by removing the Mic from the radio ... if it receives CB with no mic connected, then there is an issue with the mic. Otherwise, unless the unit is in PA mode (public address mode) it is likely something internal and beyond the scope of this service.
I had the same (squealing) problem on transmit with the Midland 1001Z
when I used it indoors as a base unit. The problem was my power
supply: it broke into oscillation when drawing more than 150 mA at
13.8V. The 1001Z draws about 150 mA on Receive, and much more (but
only about 900 mA) on Transmit. If using the 1001Z as a base unit, I
suggest you power it with a fully-charged car battery indoors, or test
your power supply to check if it can't supply the required 1 Amp,
approx., on Transmit. It's a GREAT radio, just give it a good power
supply. My power supply was defective out of the box, but now I have a
good one and get great reports on signal strength and audio quality.
Remarkable, for the low price and 3 year warranty. Good luck!
here is the info you asked for the following is the correct wiring.
Mic Wiring Info Stock Mic Wiring 1. Ground Shield 2. Audio Yellow 3. Transmit Red 4. Receive Black 5. CH. Up White 6. CH. Down Blue Turner 4-Wire MIC. Wiring 1. Ground Shield 2. Audio White 3. Transmit Black 4. Receive N/C 5. CH. UP N/C 6. CH. Down N/C
Turner 6-Wire MIC. Wiring 1. Ground Shield & Red 2. Audio White 3. Transmit Blue 4. Receive N/C 5. CH. UP N/C 6. CH. Down N/C
Astatic 4-Wire MIC. Wiring 1. Ground Shield 2. Audio White 3. Transmit Red 4. Receive N/C 5. CH. UP N/C 6. CH. Down N/C
Astatic 6-Wire MIC. Wiring 1. Ground Shield & Blue 2. Audio White 3. Transmit Red 4. Receive N/C 5. CH. UP N/C 6. CH. Down N/C
cobra 4 pin is pin1= shield, pin2= mic audio (usually the shield is wrapped around the mic audio wire).pin 3= transmit or push to talk usually red or white whichever isnt wrapped with the shield, and pin4 = receive or speaker complete
5 pin cobra=1-Audio 2- Shield 3-Receive 4-Switching Wire 5-Transmit, you can jump pins 4 and two
Sound like either an antenna problem, or a mic problem.
The mic on most cb's also serve as transmit/receive switching. A broken wire or bad switch in the mic or cord can cause either or both to fail.
If you have a bad antenna (or cable), you should still hear squelch noise on receive (maybe lower in volume) and be able key the mic and get a transmit light on the unit. Visually inspect the connector, cable and antenna. If need be use an swr meter to prove the antenna system is bad.