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Technics SL-10 does not rotate

This is a linear tracking turntable with the tonearm in the cover, given to me in virtually unused condition. With everything connected properly, when a record is placed on the platter, the cover is closed and the "start" button is pressed, the platter does not rotate. Nothing happens, except the "repeat" LED begins blinking. If I press the manual button with the cover open, the platter rotates correctly - but of course the tonearm is in the cover, so you can't play the record. The only thing I can get with the cover closed is the blinking "repeat" LED. I've tried pressing the buttons available to me in various combinations and looked for other switches or buttons, all without success. I've also checked to see if anything is interfering with the tonearm, but can find nothing out of place. This is conceptually a very simple turntable, only a few buttons and nothing else. I have a manual, and I am doing what it says to do, but no joy. I hope someone out there has experience with this turntable and can tell me the secret to making it work, or whether it's FUBAR and I should give it up. Aside from the fact that it doesn't work, it is a very nice piece of equipment and I'd like to use it if I can. Thanks in advance Damon Fever

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Re: Technics SL-10 does not rotate

OK a blast from the past. There is a switch that is in the base which senses that the cover is closed and this unlocks the arm and disk motor can rotate. The reason that the disk rotates when the cover is up is because this allows the disk to spin up to speed before the arm comes down. Once the cover comes down the switch unlocks the arm and the arm then moves this switch also can stop the disk if the arm does not unlock.

Posted on Sep 11, 2007

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Turntable will not rotate when in "Phono" mode

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It's possible your weight adjustment has been mis-adjusted since you last used your turntable. On the tonearm, there should be a weight adjustment wheel. Turn this all the way towards the needle (IN). Now, adjust it backwards until there is no resistance in the tone arm - this is your zero point, reset the wheel on the weight adjustment knob to read 0. Now, adjust it forward to 3 grams of downward pressure. This is usually the minimum amount of force needed on a record. If it still skates at this setting, adjust it with gradual amounts of greater force until the skating stops.

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The clicking is the lens attempting to focus on the CD. Try cleaning the lens using a cotton swab and alcohol. If that fails to resolve the problem, the optics will need to be replaced.


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My stereo receive hums annoyingly when I use my record turntable.

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Tonearm on turntable wont stay on record

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Problem with autoreturn of tonearm

This very much depends on the type (and vintage) of the

Very old turntables used a system of mechanical CAMs,
slaved to the main plater. Once engaged (usually through
a hinged/retracted gear-tooth), the platter would spin the cam,
which in turn would lift the tone arm, move it back home,
shut off the power and disengage itself after one complete

This system could be mechanically triggered with the power off,
just by swinging the tone arm towards the center, and spinning
the platter manually by hand. To fix it you had to make internal
mechanical adjustments, or replace worn out levers, wheels,
bearings, springs, etc...

A more modern turntable will use electrical sensors,
such as a micro-switch under the tonearm gimbals,
which is triggered as the tonearm swings towards the center.
A second switch is coupled to the stop/ return button.

Once the mech. is triggered, it can derive its power from the
plater (as before) or use a separate servo motor to lift
and return the tone-arm. The viscously damped cueing
mechanism can also be involved in lifting the arm during
the return cycle.

At the hi-tech extreme, a microprocessor can control the
whole works through the use of selenoids and stepping
motors with optical or magnetic sensors to trigger it,
position it and disengage it.

0) Note:
During all testing, remove the record and cover the
stylus with its protective gate to prevent damage.

If the stylus slides out of the cartridge, like it did on the
Shure cartridges, remove the stylus gently and put it in
a safe place to avoid damaging it. You do NOT want to
ever drop the stylus on the spinning rubber platter surface.

But leave the main head and cartridge in place for normal
tone-arm balance.

Turn off your amplifier, or turn down the volume to zero, to
prevent damage to your ears and the speakers if the needle
does fall when it shouldn't

1) Assuming that this is a fairly modern turntable, with
a gimbal mounted tone arm (the large double hung ring
bearing at the back for swinging both ways) and a
counter weight for setting the stylus pressure...

and possibly an anti-skating adjustment as well...

It is fair to assume that the cuing lever is what lifts
the arm vertically, regardless of the swing return mechanics.

2) The premature stylus drop (during return) is therefore
caused either by a cuing defect, or by lift timing,
either mechanical or electronic.

The stylus weigh setting is NOT an issue here, that
is determined by the stylus and cartridge specifications,
and must be set correctly to prevent record and stylus

Note that both too much and to little weight is BAD.
Too much weigh is obvious, but too little will cause
mis-tracking, distortion and premature record wear.

Similarly, and incorrect tracking pitch or yaw will also
cause early damage, as will incorrect anti-skating for
a particular stylus pressure.

3) First of all, test the cuing lever at several different tone-
arm angles, to see if it stays up, or droops down with time.

If there is a problem, check the springs, viscous damping..

Take the ****** apart from below, and see what gives.
Is it mechanical, hydraulic, or electronic ?

4) If it is electronic, you have a control/ timing problem,
which requires a service manual and a qualified electronic
tech to fix it.

You should be able to check any sensors, switches
or motor yourself, though.

5) If the cuing lift system is mechanical, check the levers
and cams:
What is driving it ?
Is it broken ?
Is worn out ?
Is it out of adjustment ?
Is it slipping ?
Is it stuck ?
Is one of the springs all stretched or missing ?

6) If the lift is hydraulic or pneumatic, check for leaks.

7) If the manual lift seems to work, but the automatic return
drops it...

what is controlling it ?
how is it linked it to the arm return mech ?
Is there a coordination/timing problem ?

Have fun.
Please rate my answers.


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