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Anonymous Posted on Aug 26, 2013

Oilless compressor cycling

Fresh rebuild on piston & sleeve. Compressor comes on and runs for a minute or so, then kicks off for about 10 sec, then on for 10 sec, etc..... Builds pressure when running, but doesn't stay running long enough. Is there some type of thermal cutoff or something?

1 Answer

Lawrence Oravetz

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  • Campbell Hau... Master 10,558 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 29, 2014
Lawrence Oravetz
Campbell Hau... Master
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Joined: Jul 28, 2008
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Unhook the line to the tank and let the compressor run a while without building pressure. The piston rings need to run in. How is the oil level in the compressor?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 28, 2009

SOURCE: compressor will not build pressure

compressor will not build pressure

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Anonymous

  • 89 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2009

SOURCE: compressor runs hot and won't build pressure

THE COPPER LINE IS SUPPOSED TO GET HOT, SCALDING HOT ACTUALLY. THE MOST COMMON REASON FOR COMPRESSORS NOT BUILDING PRESSURE IS CLOGGED AIR FILTER OR THE VALVES IN THE HEAD ARE BROKEN OR NOT OPENING AND CLOSING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY POSSIBLY HAVE A BAD AIR LEAK DOWNSTREAM BUT YOU CAN CLOSE THE DISCHARGE VALVE ON THE TANK TO ELIMINATE THAT PROBLEM. HOPE THIS HELPS OR GET YOU STARTED.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 13, 2009

SOURCE: Craftsman compressor runs for 10 sec. and shuts off.

I have a Craftsman 2hp/12 gallon Air compressor that does basicly the same thing, will start, run for about 3 seconds and stop. I replaced the pressure switch but still have the problem. Any suggestions?

Anonymous

  • 89 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 20, 2009

SOURCE: compressor runs fine builds up pressure then will

PRESSURE SWITCH IS BAD. NOT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY, POINTS ARE STUCK/WELDED TOGETHER OR THE NIPPLE UNDER IT IS CLOGGED. DRAIN PRESSURE AND REMOVE PRESSURE SWITCH. KNOW YOUR UNITS PSI AND TAKE THE SWITCH WITH YOU TO MATCH. IF YOU WANT TO INVESTIGATE FURTHER BEFORE YOU BUY, LOOK IN THE SIDE OF THE SWITCH AND YOU WILL SEE THE POINTS. THEY SHOULD BE TOUCHING WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO RUN AND SEPERATED WHEN ITS SUPPOSED TO CUT OFF. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY

Anonymous

  • 583 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 17, 2009

SOURCE: ingersoll rand compressor T30 model 7100

I would wonder A if the wiring was heavey enough to carry that sort of load with out overheating B if the motor is big enough to do it for the same reason( ?what is the duty cycle?) C if the receiver is big enough to allow reasonable time between shut down and start up --- remembering that at start up the motor pulls double the current to start up and if it doesn `thave sufficient time to cool alittle before being called on to do it again and that would prompt the question ,does it have sufficient ventilation? these are all queries that would need addressing before I would try to offer a solution ,one thing is certain ,--there is something wrong

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1answer

It keeps going through a start up process (clicking and the fan come on then off quickly) at first staying steady then getting longer in the start up process.

Hi David, thank you for your inquiry. I understand that your Frigidaire Refrigerator is cycling on and off more than you expected. Todays newer refrigerator's have to meet Dept of Energy (DOE) specifications for energy savings. Typically the fan and compressor runs to get the fresh food temp down to 34*, the compressor shuts off and the fan runs for thirty more minutes and shuts down. The fan will repeatedly cycle on and off to keep the temp down as close to 34*. Once the temp in the fresh food hits 40* for more than two minutes the compressor cycles back on again. This will cause the temps in the fresh food to dwell between 35-40 and in the freezer section between 8-15. Hope this helps! -JK
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It runs but the pressure is not going upto 100psa

It could be a worn teflon piston if it's an oilless compressor, the loud noisy ones use no oil instead they use a special teflon piston/ring set witch has low friction other than the typical old cast iron piston compressor with an oil reservoir.
2 things, you may have a leak or stuck valve, or a hole in the tank, look and listen for leaks
Your piston is worn out, the teflon is worn or scored and air bypasses the side of the piston, you need a piston rebuild kit, they are around $ 30-40, easy to install in most cases. It may contain a piston and replaceable cylinder wall.
Good Luck
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I have a 25 gal. craftsman oilless air compressor. Runs for about 1/2 a minute & than kicks the breaker out.

Hello babeaton, several things can cause that, but, the most common thing is the regulator. let it run again and right ofter it kicks off feel the power cord and see if it's warm to the touch, if so it likely is the regulator. Breakers operate based on the amount of heat generated from current running through the cord/wires.
Good luck my friend!
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PRESSURE WILL NOT BUILD, SEEMS TO RUN FINE (ABOUT 10YRS OLD). COULD IT BE THE INTAKE VALVE?

you're probably right, do you bleed the tank pressure after every use? This helps with the longevity. Could be leak in system, crack in head (these would be audible after cycle or turn off). Piston rings/seals- looks like an oilless unit- normal wear...
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I have a 5 HP Coleman air compressor. I was using it to provide air to my plasma cutter which requires 60 psi to operate. Basically, air compressor's motor keeps running, but it's stopped creating air...

You did not list model number, however if you have oilless type check the cylinder/piston by manually turning crank until piston is at top and examine cylinder for wear or scratches. If worn replace cylinder kit for full pressure. If ok check reed valves /valve plate for wear or broken reeds. If oil bath type, problem is usually air leak or reed valves / valve plate. As a general rule, you can keep track of wear by noting how many minutes it takes to fill the tank to cut-out. As the compressor wears it will take increasingly longer to fill. When new, and depending on tank size/ hp, most compessors fill within 2 ~ 5 min. Good luck
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Craftsman air compressor 1 HP 12 gal 125 psi

this is probably an "oilless" compressor, it has "piston" with a thin ring of leatherlike material acting as a piston ring, the "cylinder" is an aluminum sleeve - what usually happens is the cylinder gets scratched from dirt or just wear or the leather ring deteriorates, that's why it will go only so far - the only fix for this is to replace the cylinder and the piston
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Compressor pumps up to 40# and keeps running and wont shut off whats up replaced regulator assembly because knob was broken off but it didnt help the problem whats next ?

If this is an oilless compressor you most likely need to replace the piston. The piston in oilless compressors are made of softer metals and will become distorted over time partially losing seal in the cylinder. It will have enough of a seal to build some pressure but not enough to reach the cut-off point.
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Craftsman 5 hp 30 Gal Won't build to more than 50/60 PSi

Most oilless compressors suffer from a short lifespan of the cylinder and piston ring. Unplug the unit and remove the cover to expose the cylinder and rod. Move piston to topmost position and examine the condition of the cylinder. If you see scratches or worn areas close to the top of the cyl. then most likely will need rebuild kit. (Not expensive) If cylinder looks good, remove the head and check the reed valves for debris or broken reed. Reed valve plate is also available as part with gaskets. To extend the life of an oilless compressor try not to use it in dusty or sandy areas as the bottom of the unit is open and tends to **** dirt into cylinder. Good Luck.
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No air pressure past 60PSI on a 125PSI Campbell Hausfield WL61110

Your comperssor is oilless type and suffers from short cylinder / piston life. When the compressor no longer reaches cycle pressure the cylinder / piston should be replaced. These parts are available at www.chpower.com I believe that the part number is wl210300aj. Not expensive, enjoy.
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