This may, in fact, be the cause of many problems.
Tried the relay trick, didn't work even as a band-aid. THought perhaps by doing that for a while it was allowing a leaky electrolytic capacitor reform so I used freeze spray on a few with no help.
Out with the VOM, all the outputs ohmed out OK but if I held the power relay on I found one channel where the center bias was way above -0- V
Touched up several cold solder connections, all of the type where you can see the hole in the PC board showing through the solder. No help.
Decided to look under the small orange disc caps that were glued to the board and upon moving one I found that the glue was brittle.
Oh no, not the old conductive glue problem. I used to see this all the time on old Mitsubishi TV sets. Cleaned all the glue off from under the three caps you can get to and she's fine now.
*** BEFORE DOING THIS make sure to discharge BOTH large filter caps through a 100 or so ohm resistor for several minutes - there's power all over the board for some time after it's turned off. ***
It takes a very steady hand under a lot of light. You'll need a small probe with a fine (but not needle-like) point on it to carefully chip away the old hardened black glue tiny bits at a time, making sure not to break a PC board trail.
While I'm unsure what type of glue this is the glue that caused all the problems in Mitsubishi products was made from some sort of fish emulsion. Over time it apparently carbonizes become somewhat conductive. The stuff is only there to hold off-board components in place during assembly, it serves no other purpoise so it need not be replaced.
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the clicking may have been coming from the relay itself, but it doesn't simply mean that the relay is faulty. clicking may also be caused by transformers, indicating that some electronic components have developed SHORT CIRCUIT. try measuring resistance of transistors and diodes near the power unit (unplug/turn the unit OFF of course) check also for the impedance of the output power transformers. check the amplifier IC for short also.
I just got this TV 3 weeks ago. I noticed the AUDIO issue too. Every power up, HDMI change etc, I would have to go into the MENU/OPTION/ and toggle the PC IN/HDMI IN setting to get my Optical OUT AUDIO working.
DO NOT UPDATE TO THE NEW FIRMWARE. :( Tonight I decided to do the Firmware Update on this AQUOS LC-60LE600U with hopes that my audio issues will be fixed.
WRONG... Now I have NO Digital Optical OUTput, and worse, the trick to Toggle (PC IN/HDMI IN) No longer works!!
So now I am out of luck and NO LONGER can use OPTICAL OUT for any of my Dish Network Satellite TV Viewing.
I called SHARP AQUOS Tech Support , firt Rep sucked , had nothing but stupid responses like , use RCA Audio OUT.
Or just plug your OPTICAL OUT from your Dish Network HopperDVR Directly to my A/V Home Theatre Receiver.
I may have to do that afterall!!!!!!! But this simply Bypasses the PROBLEM and doesnt resolve my TV Optical Out Problem.
Then I called , talked to a Very nice guy named Travis. He explained it. I hope some of you can explain it to be better, but here is what he said.
HDMI has some kind of Digital Content Protection, LLC provides HDCP (which was developed by Intel) for HDMI. apparently this is the JIST of this he said. Exoplaining some issue where Powers That Be, (BIG MOVIE CORP) or such want to make it so Digital Audio cant pass from HDMI to OPTICAL as easy???????
I dont get it. So it was never supposed to ....... BUT.. The (PC AUDIO IN/HDMI IN) Toggle trick made it work.
Turns out the NEWER Firmware Fixed it so the Toggle Trick WONT WORK. I cant imagine this is going on. How many Millons of TV Viewers experience this? There has to be more to it than this. My HOPE..... is to find the OLD Default Firmware for this TV, cause even though a Hassle to TOGGLE on the AUDIO, better than NO AUDIO NOW ! ARGH!!!
Please, if anyone can provide ANY info or firnware files for our AQUOS LC-60LE600U I would be SO MUCH HAPPIER.
As your complaint post indicates, there is a malfunction to its power amplifier output. Proper checking should be done to this stage by anu well experienced service technicians. Most of the components in the section carries high current, and proper care should be given whe repair this stage. Power output section of your amp is faulty, It switches on first without any problem, but after stabilisation, outputs the power to speakers [relay click indicates that]; then detects some short and shuts OFF. Thie is happening now. Get it repaired by any experienced service pwersonnel have experience in serivcing Hi-Watt amps. OK.
I had this problem also and discovered an easy way to trick it into powering on: Click the power button, then within 1 second of the receiver powering off, click the power button again. The receiver should stay on this time. This works with both the button on the receiver and the remote control.
I would like to know what causes this problem and whether or not I should be concerned about damage being done. I assume this is a power protection. I haven't tried plugging this receiver into a different power socket to test, but I don't think the power plug is the problem. Note: I have the subwoofer plugged into the power plug on the back of the receiver.
I had a similar 'drop out' problem with my Yamaha RX-V3300.
Problem- Possibly loose speaker connections.
I have banana connections which I unplugged; tightened speaker terminal connections at back of receiver and then reinserted banana speaker connectors- which remedied problem. There is possibly some kind of loose connection either caused by the banana plugs or at speaker connectors at the back of the receiver, which was remedied (i.e. possibly temporarily) by reinserting the banana plugs.
I also previously thought something was wrong with the main on/off power relay which was 'dropping out' and replaced it, but then 'drop out' problem returned a few days later. I reinserted and tightened speaker connectors, which has it working again.
any relay will do just dont go below the ratings of what you found. the only thing is if you try to replace wityh another type then it might fit your board, you have to relocate then and rewire. what is the relay for? the main power switch for the trans or for the speakers? since you mention you replace one then later found out it is the other one, it thought you are talking about speaker relays. are your sure it is your relay?
Same problem here...I determined that if you unplug the receiver for a few hours, it will work again for a week or so. Someone else on this website said that it had something to do with the power relay switch: