Another fix for not powering up

This may, in fact, be the cause of many problems.

Tried the relay trick, didn't work even as a band-aid. THought perhaps by doing that for a while it was allowing a leaky electrolytic capacitor reform so I used freeze spray on a few with no help.

Out with the VOM, all the outputs ohmed out OK but if I held the power relay on I found one channel where the center bias was way above -0- V

Touched up several cold solder connections, all of the type where you can see the hole in the PC board showing through the solder. No help.

Decided to look under the small orange disc caps that were glued to the board and upon moving one I found that the glue was brittle.

Oh no, not the old conductive glue problem. I used to see this all the time on old Mitsubishi TV sets. Cleaned all the glue off from under the three caps you can get to and she's fine now.

*** BEFORE DOING THIS make sure to discharge BOTH large filter caps through a 100 or so ohm resistor for several minutes - there's power all over the board for some time after it's turned off. ***

It takes a very steady hand under a lot of light. You'll need a small probe with a fine (but not needle-like) point on it to carefully chip away the old hardened black glue tiny bits at a time, making sure not to break a PC board trail.

While I'm unsure what type of glue this is the glue that caused all the problems in Mitsubishi products was made from some sort of fish emulsion. Over time it apparently carbonizes become somewhat conductive. The stuff is only there to hold off-board components in place during assembly, it serves no other purpoise so it need not be replaced.