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Re: How to remove the cpu
Hi, You will find that the CPU doe's have a lever to remove it. But it is probably hidden under your heatsink and fan. Study the clips holding the h/s & fan down and unclip them.
gently apply a bit of force to the h/s and remove it. You will now see the lever you need
Take as much care as possible removing the H/S and also the CPU other wise you may damage the pins on the CPU.
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I'm not familiar with that particular model but the common cause of that fault on the ones I do work on is a broken or cracked lift lever inside the stand. You need to remove the stand from the motor housing. 4 screws going up through the stand into the underside of the motor casing at the back. That will expose the lift lever mechanism for you to identify the problem.
It depends. You usually must replace the entire heatsink/fan assembly. If you have the standard 'Intel' heatsink/fan that came with a retail boxed Intel processor, you flip the levers in opposite directions to loosen the assembly, and then you slip a thin piece of metal under each of the four hooks that attach it to the mobo, but you do them one at a time. You just pry a little bit and lift up on each one. After the last hook is freed, you pull the unit completely off the board.
There's also a power connector. Don't forget to unplug it. There are at least 100 different styles of HSF for that mobo. You also want to twist a little to work the thermal-transfer compound loose. Otherwise you might pull the processor out with the HSF.
Make sure it is locked down, mine has a kind of a lever that opens when you pull the bobbin out to add the thread, then when you put the bobbin back in the case, you lock that lever down and make sure it fits correctly into the sewing machine and is locked into place. Hope this makes some kind of sense!
Remove roll top center box by removing screws. Remove all screw under flat areas and at end of wood. Pull up on shifter plastic surround. Lift wood off , switches will come with it and unplug from there connectors.
I'm assuming you didn't use the Cmos jumpers to reset the cmos and only replaced the battery? Checked board to see if there are any capacitors bulging, leaking r blowing? You don't say why you removed it in the 1st place? I'd remove it again and test it outside the casing, see if that solves the problem, then look inside the casing to see if there is anything that could be causing a short, Other than that, you may have damaged a component on the board when you originally removed it
To remove the motherboard you need to remove power from the back, lay the computer on it's side, wear an anti-ESD wrist strap, remove the left side cover (looking from back of computer). Mark and record all connections (a video helps while you disassemble). Pull all connectors off by grabbing connector NOT wires. Some have locks. Remove all adapter cards (little circuit boards plugged in motherboard). Remove RAM by pushing on locks on each end. Remove the CPU fan and heat sink but PULL UPP CAREFULLY in case CPU stays attached. If cpu is still in socket, carefully lift locking lever and lift cpu straight up. Remove all screws. Board will need to slide forward slightly to get out of case. Take old board to store to make of proper replacement and take cpu also. Both should be in anti-static bags but DO NOT use ziplock bags. Install in reverse BUT cpu should fall into socket WITHOUT pushing, it has one corner of pins different from others. Make sure that you have wrist ******** at all times working inside the tower. Respond for further details if needed. Good luck!
remove the rubber tray from under the arm rest, use the allen tool to remove 2 screws under the arm rest, lift up the wood trim around the shifter, disconnect the 4wd switch connector, remove the wood trim, find the little white (or red) release lever in front of the shifter assembly, you might have to move some foam rubber to see the lever.
THIS IS NOT A STRANGE PROBLEM. Many times the lever that you move to lock door becomes slightly bent and it now will not travel completely to the unlock position (yet you can't tell just by looking) and it only needs to travel another 1/8 or 1/4 inch; you need to bend the handle in the oposite direction in order to get the extra clearance when moved to the unlock position. If this does not work, then you need to remove the burner top; some lift up, others need the individual burners removed (unscrewed) so the burner top can be lifted. Inside you will see a metal arm attached to the lever. This arm is either moved by a small servo-motor (geared rotation motor) or it is attached to a small micro switch or magnetic selenoid. You may need to disconnect the arm or rod from any of these components in order to move the lock lever and tereby release the lever tong from the door. Goodluck, Macgivor
Was the heatsink screwed into the mobo or was it clipped to the plastic?
If it was screwed on the processor is soldered to the mobo and cannot be removed.
If its a ZIF socket then more than likely the lever has broken off and the socket is pretty useless now, time for a new mobo.