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Re: DEHUMIDIFIER | ADR556RH
The Efficiency Factor (EF) is a guide to a dehumidifier's operating cost.
The EF is the amount of water, in litres, a dehumidifier removes at 27°C (80.6°F) and 60 per cent relative humidity for each kilowatt hour (kWh) of electricity. If electricity costs 8 cents a kilowatt hour, which it does in many parts of Canada, a unit with an EF of 1.2 will remove 15 L (32 U.S. pints or 3.3 imperial gal.) foreach dollar in electricity costs. An advanced unit with an EF of 2.4 will remove 30 L (63 U.S. pints, 6 1/2 imperial gal.) of water for each electrical dollar spent.
Because condensation gives off heat a dehumidifier acts as a heat source. This can be useful in spring or fall, when basements tend to be cool. In mid-summer, the heat added by a dehumidifier is counterproductive.
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If efficiency is down make sure that the the coils are clean and free of any and all debris, dirt, etc. Locate unit where it can "breathe" properly. If no improvement you may have lost some refrigerant over the years. If access to ammeter check for current draw. If it is lower that specs it is because the unit is not working as hard due to less refrigerant in system.
In order to look up the filter change procedure I would need the specific model number. However, filter changes or washing should be done regularly. Look for a very simple lift-out design that is washable in the kitchen or laundry sink. Soak in soapy water and rinse with spray nozzle.
As for the symptom "Blows out warm air" this is expected. The dehumidifier is less than 100% efficient, meaning that the energy that is used produces heat in the exhaust air. A 100% efficient design would still send all the heat energy of condensation (endothermic phase change) into the exhaust air. You should expect 1072 BTU per pint (1 pound of water). This is far more than the heat of crystallization (144 BTU per pound of ice) and therefore much more sensible when you feel the discharge air from the dehumidifier. Dehumidifiers typically operate in basements to both warm and dry the area where a sump pump may be operating to remove the water that seeps through the foundation. A dehumidifier is not a good idea for warm areas of the house. This will decrease the efficiency by increasing the temperature differential needed to get the evaporator coil below the dew point to cause condensation. The condenser coil will be much hotter than expected if the unit is operated in a warm humid room. Only air conditioners which discharge condensate and exhaust air to the outside of the structure should be used to cool a room.
The HI indicates that the current humidity is 90%+ in the room/unit. You should check if the filter is clogged. I've seen this message in dryer locations when the dehumidifier coils ice up. Check the coils (behind the filter) for any build up.
If this is a brand new dehumidifier, leave it on for an hour to see if it auto-defrosts. (A similar wait is needed if the room is cooler that 60 degrees F.)
If the unit continues to freeze up and the room is over 60 degrees, you may have a refrigerant leak in the dehumidifier. If it is still under warranty (5 years on the cooling system), contact Haier. The warranty service number is 1-877-337-3639.
A dehumidifier works just the way an air conditioner works
but in a reverse manner. If you encounter a problem with your
dehumidifier then it would be repaired the same way you would repair an
air conditioner. As such a dehumidifier does not require much cleaning
apart from changing the filter.
When the filter and coils of the dehumidifier are choked with dirt,
it may not pull out moisture from the air properly. The efficiency of
the dehumidifier gets decreased and the only solution is, to clean it
thoroughly. In order to assist you with the cleaning procedure of a
dehumidifier, following are a few tips:
Remove the water tank/container and clean it after
draining the water. Depending on the usage the container must be
Cleaning or changing the filter is also important for the main function
of ensuring a healthy atmosphere is performed by the filter. Mix some
bleach with warm soapy and clean the filter. It will help to get rid of
the bacteria, molds and mildew.
Use a vacuum cleaner to clean the evaporative coil/hot coil. Scrub off
the dirt using a brush but make sure that you don’t bend the fins while
Clean the condenser or the cold coil the same way. If the humidifier is
working in a room where the temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit
then check the coils whether it is not icing up.
See to it whether the fins are bent or not, if they are bent then
straighten them out using a fin comb otherwise it might obstruct the
effective working of the dehumidifier.
And yes do not forget to clean the fan blades and other parts of the dehumidifier.
Keeping in mind the humidity level of your room, sets the humidistat of
the dehumidifier as keeping it too low or too high may only make the
dehumidifier to run longer than necessary.
Also before you start with the work of cleaning the dehumidifier, make sure that it has been unplugged.
I'm surprised that you are trying to dehumidify if you are in the northern hemisphere right now.
But, before you go off trying to fix the refrigerant, see if you can get a glass of ice water to sweat near the dehumidifier. While relative humidity might be high in cold climates right now, it's a relative number, as the total grains of moisture is far lower than what it would be in a warmer climate. Cold air saturates easier, because it holds less, moisture.
Most people use a humidifier in the winter because they want to saturate the air with water, which is better for the human body, and minimizes static electricity.
I can help you diagnose the dehumidifier if you want. The coil should only get to 40 degrees or so. But the sweating glass of water will tell you if there is enough moisture in the air for the dehumidifier to wring out.