AC was working fine. All of a sudden it died. We checked that there is power to the unit. We've ordered a new control box. Do you think replacing this would fix the problem? Also, do you know how hard a task replacing the control box is?
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Re: No Power to unit
Hi, How old is the unit? Is there a warrenty on it. If so, anything you do to it may void the warrenty. First, check to make sure breaker on the end of the plug is not tripped. It will probably have a reset button on it. If it will not reset it can be replaced with a regular 110 plug if needed. (If this is a 110 unit) If you are talking about the control panel on the AC when you say control box I think you are getting into more than you can handle and not sure that what you ordered is even what you need. If you want to get into it, first make sure it is unplugged, Take off the front cover and slide the unit from the outer cover, there may need to be a few screws removed to do this. Look at the wiring and see if there is anything burned or loose. Other than this you would have to get a meter and talk with someone on here familiar with your particular unit to troubleshoot it. I really don't think you should order any parts before you find out what the problem is. If there isn't anything that you can see that's wrong with it I would suggest taking it to Sears and letting then determine if it would be better to fix it or replace it. Hope I have helped.
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if the blower is working when you jumper it at the motor you`ve eliminated the motor itself.if you have replaced the heater control with a new one or known good used one then the only thing is the blower motor resistor has gone bad.i`m surprised you did not check and replace this unit after jumping the blower motor.
It sounds like that unit is connected to a "power saving load
controller" device from the power company. The power company can turn
your unit on & off with a radio signal. If you manually activated
contactor and unit ran. I would bet that the power company's device or
the wiring connecting it is where the problem lies. Call the power
company and have them check their device. If they tell you that the
device has been tested remotely and is working fine. Explain to them
that you can activate your unit manually and it works fine. They should
not charge you to come out. Those "load controller devices" have a
pretty good longevity record.
This may be a longshot, but many electronic devices like TVs, dryers with electronic computerized controls, entertainment systems like the Wii, and other devices sometimes get "confused" and won't turn on, turn off, or otherwise work properly, perhaps due to a small power surge in your AC line.
I've found that one of the first things to try when it appears to be a failure of the electronics and not a mechanical issue is to unplug the device at the wall (to make sure that any power adapter is also unplugged) and wait about 10 minutes for any residual electric charge to dissipate. Then plug the device back in and give it a try. This has worked with a television, a Wii console, an electric clothes dryer, and some other devices that I thought had died for good. This may explain why sometimes a device is taken to a repair shop and it works fine.
There are, of course, other reasons that the unit won't turn on, but I would try this first before looking for other reasons for the problem.
make sure the batt is charging and working fine.check also the batt contacts.make sure its clean.insert batt to your camera.instead of pressing the power button, press the play button instead to power camera on. if unit turns on,might actually be an issue w/the camera unable to power on in camera mode.if it turns on initialize cam (p.75 of the manual).see if it works.if still wont turn on try using a diff batt (or if you have an optional ac adapter model#acls5k use it, attempt to power on cam to isolate issue w/power source).if batt or ac adaptor not available try to check batt with another cam if possible to test batt. if still unit doesnt turn on using a fully charged, diff batt, or using an ac adaptor,unit would reuire service. hope this info helps.thanks:)
If there are no lights and no sound, then you've lost power. I expect you've checked the fuse? If not go ahead! Assuming that the fuse is ok, the next step is to check the power board in the unit. The unit pulls apart by un-doing 2 screws; 1 on the bottom and 1 on the top centre of the rear plate. The innards pull out, but you must pull the top panel away from the second screw I mentioned as you pull it out. Inside the bow you'll find the power board (where the power lead goes to). You're looking for bulging or leaking capacitors; this is a comman failure on these units. They are pennies to buy and easy to replace if you can wield a soldering iron. If you have a handy friend he/she will find it easy.
Make sure there's power getting to the dishwasher. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power. Sometimes the power cord disconnects at the dishwasher
(inside the junction box, behind the bottom kick panel), if this is
the case, the wiring must be repaired or replace
If the junction box checks out ok, the wall outlet socket is live, replace the main control or timer module.