Question about Dell E152FP 15" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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Dell Monitor 152FPC POWER BUT DIMMED SCREEN

This is my story: Ihave a Dell Monitor 152FPC and the monitor has Power ( The Power Button stay Green when pressed) But the image is very dimm. any solutions for this problem ? Thank You

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  • newbee Sep 07, 2007

    I check everything and looks ok.I check for dry joints but looks ok.Im thinking of check the capacitor but I do not have esr meter

  • newbee Sep 07, 2007

    Logitech z-640 speakers sytem. set of 6 speakers 5 of them are working right, and the subwoofer it was working, but not anymore. I check all the wires and they are connected to my sound card correctly. I check my software settings and they are 5.1 speakers enable. may be something wrong with the subwoofer itself?. Please give me some advice what to do. Thank You

  • darnell57 May 16, 2008

    My monitor come up clear than goes down to dim to see. How can I solve this problem.

  • subcom_eve Sep 30, 2008

    the back light turns on for 1 second and then
    it turns back on. you can still see the images.. but no light 

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5 Answers

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Xlmedium was right on the money, thanks I fixed my monitor

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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I was successful in getting the backlight repaired with this procedure. It would flash ON for about ½ second and show correct video then the screen would appear blank. I could also faintly see the test pattern when the monitor was plugged into AC power but the video cable was disconnected. Now, after having replaced the caps as described, it works fine!

0) Disconnect the AC power and VGA cables from the monitor.
1) Remove the stand from the monitor by removing the 4 screws on the back of the stand.
2) Using a small, flat-blade screwdriver and starting in the middle of one side, CAREFULLY push it in to the gap between the front and back bezel and pry the back away from the front while pushing in. The front bezel has fingers which are captured by the back, so push in on the front, and pry out on the back. I started in the middle of the right side and worked my way around the bezel.
3) Carefully pry the top edge of the back of the case away from the LCD assembly and the entire back plastic should be able to be lifted off easily.
4) Remove the screw that holds the small sheet metal door onto the back of the LCD assembly.
5) Gently pry the sheet metal door up and away, so that it can slide out.
6) Remove the 3 screws that hold the front-panel button board to the front bezel. The LCD assembly should now be free from the front bezel.
7) Carefully disconnect the cable from the LCD assembly. These are very small wires, so try to pry the connector parts apart. I started on one side and was able to get under the edge and walk it out by alternating ends. I had to remove two small stick-on foam blocks in order to remove the connector.
8) Gently peel back the silver tape that covers 2 of the 4 screws that hold the LCD assembly to the metal back. You will want to reattach the silver tape during reassembly, so only peel it back far enough to get it free from the metal bezel of the LCD.
9) Remove the 4 screws and the back and LCD should be able to be opened like a book. The backlight cables will still be attached, but you can get to the circuit boards now.

I’m trying to fix the back light, so I’ll be working with the Power Supply board. To remove the power supply board:
A) Remove the 3 screws that hold on either one of the white plastic covers over the cables that feed the backlights. This exposes the backlight cables and allows them to be gently pried out. I used a screw driver to gently lever them out. Now do the same with the other white cover and cables.
B) Carefully disconnect the white cable from the smaller video board. I plugs into the side of the video board and snakes under that board and over to the power supply board.
C) Remove the 4 screws that hold on the power supply board.
D) In the center of the power supply board is a plastic “Keeper.” Carefully squeeze the two wings into the center so that the power supply board can be lifted off of it.
E) Unplug the connector to the AC socket. The board should now be free.
F) Upon inspection, I see that the flat end of C922 is bulging and has leaked black stuff. I will be replacing it. It is a 16V 1000uF capacitor. It is OK to replace it with a higher voltage capacitor, but NOT a lower voltage one. Radio Shack has 1000uF 35V caps (RS Part # 272-1032) which are slightly larger in size, but easily fit in my board. They were about $1.59 each. Be sure to match the polarity (White negative stripe on the Cap to the wide white band on the silk screen.) Since there are two back lights, I chose to replace C923 at the same time, since I expect that it serves the same function for the other backlight.

10) Reverse the process for reassembly!

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

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I just wanted to thank "Guest" if he/she happens to look at this again. That was EXACTLY what the problem was in my case, and I wouldn't have known where to start without your help. Thanks!

Posted on Nov 30, 2007

At my place of work, we've had several blown capacitors on this monitor. You can see the capacitor bulging once you tear apart the monitor. Radio Shack 1000uF is the replacement, and only costs about $1.50.

Posted on Nov 19, 2007

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Connection could be loose ,loose pin on pinout plug, dirty connection,broken wire in cord,make sure connection is tight,bad ground in plug or wire

Posted on Sep 07, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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