Trying to replace rear wheel brake cylinder on a 2003 Ford Focus. The rear bolt came out fine, but the front bolt was tucked under the bleeder valve (I removed), and is so tight into the frame that once you get a socket on it, there is no room for the ratchet. And due to how the cylinder block comes out of the rear of the plate, you can't get a box end wrench on it either. Is there a special tool or process to get this bolt out?

There should be a bleeder valve on the back of the wheel cylinder just like a brake caliper. If the bleeder is broken off in the wheel cylinder, you will probably need to change the wheel cylinders. They are not very expensive and are held on by 2 bolts and the brake line.

Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

start at passanger rear than drivers rear --passanger front last drivers front
Bleeding Brakes With One Person Brake Bleeder

The reason is, you have a rear anti lock brake system. The anti lock valve is located on the frame just underneath the brake master. It is called a RABS valve. Almost impossible to bleed. But it can be done. A dealer has a tool that plugs into the RABS valve which activates the valve constantly moving the valve back and forth. This will then push all fluid and air out of your open bleeder screws in the rear.
I did'nt go to the dealer. i was too stubborn. My solution was to lift the rear of the truck and place on jack stands. Pinch off the rubber brake hoses on the 2 front brakes with a C-clamp or non marring vise grips, this will keep all fluid from going to front brakes. Next adjust the rear brake shoes by tightening the adjuster on the rear brake drums. Tighten the brakes on the rear until the brakes start to drag and the tires no longer spin freely by hand. Attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder screw on the RABS valve, place open end of hose into a jar or canister of brake fluid, so as not to draw in any air. Open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear tires spin. (I got up to 25mph on my speedometer) Step on the brake while it is in gear and the tires are spinning. This will activate the RABS valve and cause the air in the RABS valve to bleed. Do this several times. Put vehicle in park, shut off engine, and close the bleeder on the RABS valve. Attach bleeder hose to right rear of the truck, place open end of hose in a canister or jar of brake fluid so no air gets in and open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear wheels spin freely. As the wheels spin, you press your foot on the brake pedal, this will activate the RABS valve, and effectively bleed the brakes. Do this a dozen or so times, tighten the bleeder screw and do the other side. Remove clamps from front brake hoses and you will be go to go. All this may seem a bit extreme, but it is the only effective way to bleed a Rear Anti Lock Brake System on an early Ford. All the steps I laid out are necessary. You cannot skip one. The reason why the rear has to be in the air, is that there is a sensor mounted to the rear differential that senses wheel spin(or axle spin), this goes directly to the RABS valve and tells it that the tires are moving at a certain speed, and to activate the Rear Anti Lock Brakes when the brake pedal is depressed. It will not activate if it does not sense movement. The reason for pinching off the front brake lines, is that there are needle valves in the master cylinder and they will send too much fluid to the front calipers, and stifle or hinder the amount of fluid needed to go to the rabs valve and ultimately the rear wheel cylinders. It seems like a lot, and it is, but I did it and it works. Good luck

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
   
2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
   
5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
   
6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.
   

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
   
2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
   
3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
   
5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
   
8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid before beginning. Jack the car up so that the two rear wheels are about six inches above the ground. Slide under the right rear wheel and look at the back of the brake system for a small bleed valve. A bleed valve is a hollow bolt. When loosened it will allow the brake fluid to flow out and result in the vehicle having no brakes Fit a rubber hose over the end of the bleed valve. Make sure it forms a tight seal and make sure the free end is below the level of fresh and clean brake fluid. As the brake fluid in the line pushes out of the system, you will see a bubble come from the end that is under fluid.Have a helper sit in the driver's seat and follow your instructions. Tell your helper to pump the brakes hard a few times. Open the bleeder valve and tell your helper to press the brake pedal firmly down to the floor and hold it there until you indicate otherwise. Close the bleeder valve and have your helper release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until you see a small bubble ejected from the tubing under the surface of the brake fluid in the jar. Once you have finished with this wheel, move to the left rear wheel. Before you begin the next wheel brake, refill the master cylinder reservoir. Get set up and repeat the same steps for this tire.The next two wheels you will bleed are the right front wheel and then the left front wheel. Bleed the wheels in the order of the longest brake line first and then working towards the shortest brake line. Refill the master cylinder reservoir before beginning each new wheel. Once the rear brakes are finished, lower the car and jack up the front of the car. Remember to road test the brakes and make sure they operate well

have you bled the brakes after you changed that wheel cylinder? if not, then that's your problem. you need 2 people to bleed the brakes, and start at rear drivers side. then rear passenger side and then drivers front wheel. make sure you have a large container of brake fluid before you start.you will find the bleeder valves on the rear wheel on the inside of rear wheel at the top of wheel, jack it up, use jackstands for safety, crawl under the car and look at the top of wheel for a small bleeder valve. have someone inside the car pump up the brake pedal until they feel the pedal come up with pressure applied.hold pressure on pedal,open bleeder valve on wheel.you will see a small ammount of fluid come out, tighten the valve back and repeat the process again until you see a steadt stream come out. when you see that move to other rear wheel and repeat that process again. after you get that one bled, move to passenger front wheel and repeat that again,remember to tell your helper to keep pressure on brakes until youtighten the bleeders,if not you're wasting time. you helper will have to pump the brakes up on each time and hold pressure on pedal until you have each bleeder tight or else it will **** air into the brake and thats the reason you'll have to bleed them,because when you replaced that wheel cylinder,you let air into the whole braking system. if this doe'nt help,please repost you question on process of bleeding brakes and fixya.com will be happy to assist.

start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

The proportioning valve most definately can be the problem. Did you change it or is it the original? (A disc/drum system uses a 70%front/30%rear braking ratio, whereas an all-disc system is alot more even). I would first bleed the master cylinder. Then I would 'gravity bleed' the rest of the system by opening the bleeders on all 4 wheels. Do not at any point let the m/cylinder go dry. Also, do not touch the brake pedal.
Continuously check all 4 bleeders, when clean brake fluid with no bubbles at all is running from a bleeder, close it. When all 4 wheels are done, recheck the fluid level and you should be OK.
Pump the pedal to 'self-adjust' the rear calipers, then re-check the fluid level.
Any problem after that means you either have a loose connection (it's possible for a tiny leak to let air in, but not let fluid leak), a leak, or you need a new (disc/disc type) proportioning valve. I would try Summit Racing myself. Good Luck!