Question about Toshiba 42H82 42" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television
Just a ?---When you say you checked fuses,does that include the soldered in micro-fuses?? 2)no power to the flyback is not a symptom-- could you describe what the set is doing or not doing? Is the red LED blinking up front,etc. Please advise-----need more info.
Posted on Oct 04, 2007
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Samsung 153V LCD Monitor Power Supply Repair Tips
Troubleshooting Samsung 153V LCD power supply is just like troubleshooting those CRT type. This monitor came in with no power symptom. If you are first time repairing this type of power supply, I recommend you to first remove the switch mode power transformer. Then test every single component in the primary section, before you continue to check the secondary section.
You have to be good in testing basic electronic components in order to detect the fault. You can always browse through my website just in case you do not know how to test basic electronic components. If you do not know the right way to check, you might miss out a bad component and this will lead you not able to solve the problem. After carefully checking all the components in the power supply section, I found the filter capacitor do not have any reading using digital capacitance meter (open) , the two round type fuse also open circuit, 1N4744 15 Volt zener diode short circuit and lastly the power IC TOP247F blown!.
Testing the SMPS (switch mode power supply) primary winding with a **** smith fly-back tester, shows green bar which indicates good winding. What we left here were the secondary diode and filter capacitor. Upon checking them with analog meter and ESR meter, found all of them to be good condition. Other area like main board and inverter board also looks okay (Power failure rarely affect these two circuit). Now we have confirmed that only five components found to be faulty.
One by one the components were replaced (except one fuse) and just before you switch on the power supply, make sure you connect a 100 watt light bulb across the live ac line. Once it is done you can then proceed to switch on the LCD monitor to look at the brightness of the bulb.
If it very bright, this suggests that there are still short circuit somewhere in the power section. If it dim or totally goes off, you can now place your red probe to the secondary side to check if any dc present at their respective line. If there are DC voltages present at the output, you can switch off the power, discharge the filter capacitor (for safety purposes), remove the light bulb and connect back the new fuse to its original location.
You are now hundred percent sure that the LCD power supply won
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