Question about Blaupunkt PA2100 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Looking for power and speaker connectors

Unit works great but I cannot install it in a new auto. I traded away the connectors when I traded-in the vehicle, foolishly thinking these would be easy to find. TIA.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.

  • Master
  • 1,139 Answers
Re: looking for power and speaker connectors

Actually any good electronics parts store will have parts to make connectors. I even made a wiring harness one time for a friend's amplifier system. Connectors are not a proble unless they were the decorative type, those are hard to find.

Posted on Sep 06, 2007

Add Your Answer

0 characters

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add


3 Points

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How to install jensen 40w+40w a-80

I have one of these new, in the box, with no instructions.

Power Output: 40W/Chan Maximum, 18W/Chan RMS
(20hz-20khz into 4 ohms at less than 1% THD)
Freq. Responce: 20hz-30khz, +/-3dB
Signal to noise ratio: 80dB, A-weighted
Input Sensitivity:
Low Level, 100-500 mV
High Level, 1-5v
Input Impedence:
Low Level, 10k ohms
High Level, 27 ohms
Load Impedence: 4-8 ohms allowable (4-8 ohm speakers)
Power Requirement: 14.4v DC (10.8-15.6 allowable)

As you can see the RMS wattage output of these units is only about 18W maximum.

I am planning on using the amp I have on a low power factory car radio. A low power factory radio output should be somewhere between 6-12 watts rms/channel. I will be using the "High Level" inputs for this. DO NOT connect a radio with a higher output power. If your radio says "High Power", 25W/channel, etc, do not connect to this amp. (exception: you can use the "line out" connectors, if so equipped, See Below). I don't have the connector for the high level input so i don't know what I'll do to hook up to it. I'll probably just run wires out of the amp, in lieu of the connector.

The "Low Level" inputs are for an unamplified, line level signal ("line out" connection of a radio, portable CD player, etc). Do Not connect a greatly amplified signal to these connections.

I don't know much about the "Input Sensitivity" control (pot). I'll be leaving it on "Low" for my initial test.

The grey wires are the right speaker wires and the white wires are the left speaker wires. The grey wire with a black tracer mark is the right speaker positive (+) wire. The white wire with a black tracer is the left speaker positive (+) wire.

The blue/white wire is for attachment to your radio's "Auto Ant" (power antenna) connection (usually a orange wire, I said USUALLY). If you have a power antenna on your car, simply splice into the wire running from your radio to the antenna. This blue/white wire activates a relay in the amp which, in turn, completes the circuit through the yellow (+) power wire (See Below). - Alternative 1: You could run this wire directly to your battery with a switch to turn the amp on. You would need to place an in-line fuse of 2amp. - Alternative 2: You could connect this wire to the accessory fuse in your fuse box. If this is done, again, attach a 2amp in-line fuse for extra protection. (Note: if attached to your fuse box accessory fuse, the amp will be on even if you're not using the radio. You could have a switch here also). These are just suggestions. The most common way to connect the blue/white wire is the "Auto Antenna" wire of your radio.

The large black wire is main Ground (-) for the amp. The large yellow wire is Positive (+) power to the amp. Ideally, these should be connected straight to your battery's (+) and (-) terminals. The yellow wire on your amp should have an integral in-line fuse holder with a 7amp fuse. If not, add one. Of course, the black ground wire could simply be attached under a screw, into the body of the vehicle.

Hope this helps !

Aug 12, 2012 | Jensen Car Amplifiers

1 Answer

How do I wire the system

You would require an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.

The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire.

The complete installation process is as follows


Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.


Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.


Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.


Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.


Put the fuse in the fuse holder.


Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.


On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).


In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.


Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.


Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.


If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.


Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.


Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. You are all done!

Hope this helps


Oct 08, 2010 | Jensen XA2250 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Just got this at a sale for 10 dollars, not connectors, how do i install and where to get the connectors, do you have a manual. Also, can I use this to boost my normal car stero system?

First, boosting your original speakers is unreccommended, because the stock speakers are not made for a lot of power. The chances are, that if you hook that up to your stock speakers, you will blow the voice coil. Second, I would go to for my connectors and power wires. They are a wholesale warehouse that have amazing deals on everything. Now lets get to the connectors you would need. You need a power and ground wire (recommend 4 gauge for that Amp). You will also need a a remote turnon wire, and a input cable (depending on your head unit.) Everything is pretty self explanitory when hooking it up, but if you need more help when it gets to that time, just email me, at

Oct 24, 2009 | Verge VGA300M Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

What to do

Hello dodgeram1980,

If you are not getting sound from any of the 4 channels, I'd suspect that either the amp is not getting an input signal or the amp itself is faulty.

Here's the "no sound" troubleshooting step-by-step procedure from the JL manual:

1) Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the
voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is
played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables
from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example; 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 200mV and 5.O-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.

2) Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained
in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the Speaker Connector Plugs from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading
sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.

3) Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good
connection with the metal inside the Speaker Connector Plugs. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 12 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside each terminal.

Hope this helps.

Apr 30, 2009 | Jl Audio HD600/4 Car Amp

1 Answer

Hello, I have a 2000 VW passat with a Monsoon radio system. How do you install a new head unit and speakers while maintaining the factory amp? If this is impossible, Can I use the current speaker wires...

Hello ctr1russo,
While it's not impossible to install a new head unit and speakers and leave the factory amp, it'll be a real bear of an install.
In order to work, the Monsoon amp needs 6v which is provided on the speaker leads. An aftermarket head unit will not provide that. Best to just install a new amp.
You should be able to use the wiring, including the speaker wiring, with no problems.
Check out for the appropriate adapters and wiring harness for Monsoon equipped vehicles. Just enter your vehicle info and it should bring up the required adapters and harnesses to make everything work properly.
There are three ways to connect more than one speaker to a single channel: 1) Parallel - both speaker +'s and -'s wired together - load impedance will be halved (2 4-ohm speakers in parallel equal a 2-ohm load). 2) Series - The + of one speaker wired to the - on the other speaker and the remaining + and - going to the channel output - load impedance will be doubled (2 4-ohm speakers wired in series equal an 8-ohm load). 3) Using a crossover - connect the bass speaker (woofer) and the input of a high-pass filter directly to the channel output and the treble (tweeter) speaker to the output side of the filter. In any of these connections, you want to make sure that the load (ohms) your amp "sees" is not less than it is rated for. Most amps will work into a 4-ohm or a 2-ohm load with no problems. Going below 2-ohms is bad, because it will cause the amp to overheat and possible fail. Going above 4-ohms is no problem for the amp, but it won't produce as much power (watts) at the higher impedance and your speakers will not be as loud as they could be.
Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa:. Thanks!

Apr 21, 2009 | Car Amplifiers

1 Answer

About 6 months ago i had installed the mtx thunder 6500d amp to run my 2 rockford fosgate power T1 12inch subs and every thing was great untill recently it stop puting out sound it still powers up and...

good morning and welcome to fixya. not a bad setup you have here at all, you ned to start by checking the speaker wires inside the box to the connector inside and then the wires from connector to amp on outside. if everything looks fine there, then you need to check the amp for power out of the rca plugs to make sure the channel is not dead. if you are looking for a new amp you can try several different ones from fosgates new line up to soundstream's. im running 4 polk momo 12's on the tarantula amp and love it. they are great amps. hifonics also has a new line up pretty cool stuff, heard really good things about there stuff to. good luck and let me know so i can help you out.

Mar 08, 2009 | MTX Thunder 6500D Car Audio Amplifier

2 Answers

Panasonic stereo help

It sounds to me like there is a dirty connection or a failing component in your stereo. Being intermittent like you've described, is hard problem to figure out. It could be just the connection you are getting at the speaker terminal. But, If you aren't shy about opening up your stereo to see the guts, try getting some denaturated alcohol and clean the connectors inside. Then if you are familiar with soldering you could check the connections in the driver circuts and see if you can re-flow some of the connections. I had that problem with my receiver. The video output was be flaky so I flowed some new solder on some terminals and it works perfectly.
I hope things work out.
-Andrew Hawkins

Mar 28, 2008 | Pyle - Elite: 2 Channel 2400W Elite Series...

4 Answers

Amp problem

I don't know of a surefire test, but i had an ov2-400 gothic amp that i bought used and it had the same issue, or at least very similar. first thing to do is hook it directly to a known good source, if that fails, use the high inputs.

the fix for mine was to disconnect the amp completely, open the case, and spray everything down heavily with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, it costs about 5 bux at any autozone and is extremely handy. this fixed the issue, i then sprayed the connectors down with rid-ox and used an rca adapter as a cleaner (ie inserted it into each socket while wet and rotated it a few times), also installed a new set of rca cables just to be on the safe side.

in my case the amp was stored in a trunk and had something either spilled or condense in it, a good cleaning of the board took care of the problems and it has been working now for the past 4 months.

hope this helps,

Nov 02, 2007 | Car Amplifiers

1 Answer

My back speakers wont produce any sound

OK I believe there is a small indented "Reset Button" around somewhere on the back of the unit, With the unit powered ON, & using a small diameter implement, straightened paper clip etc, press IN the button and this should "Reset" ya unit. This may indeed fix all your problems as the Unit "Reads" the speakers at turn on.

Aug 08, 2007 | Kenwood KAC-8403 Car Audio Amplifier

2 Answers

Amp just abruptly stopped working (Pioneer GM-5300T)

Apart from the external DC power fuse (I hope you have one in-line), the majority of in-car amps have 2 mini fuses inside the unit to protect the output MOSFETs from overloading due to incorrect speaker connections, ie, if the output impedence is rated at 4ohms, anything less than that is considered to be a short circuit, and will overload the MOSFETs. After performing the tests suggested by KaeZoo, open the unit and look for printed markings on the circuit board, something like F1, F2, the fuses may not look like conventional fuses.

Jun 11, 2007 | Pioneer GM-5300T Car Audio Amplifier

Not finding what you are looking for?
Blaupunkt PA2100 Car Audio Amplifier Logo

Related Topics:

82 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Blaupunkt Car Amplifiers Experts

Tygh Duval
Tygh Duval

Level 2 Expert

290 Answers

Pablo Gonzalez

Level 3 Expert

733 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17129 Answers

Are you a Blaupunkt Car Amplifier Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides