Question about Kenmore 4292x Front Load Washer
Hi, I noticed my Kenmore elite washer leaking during the cycle. I checked around and found the rubber seal between the front door and machine shredded. Seemed like that was the source of problem. Ordered new seal and clamp but replacing it has been a challenge! Is there an easier way to install new seal? I am just trying to stick it underneath the white border around the edges and that's the tricky part. Once I can get the seal secure, I can clamp it tight. There is not a whole lot of room to make sure that it goes around smoothly. Is there a better/ easier way to do this?
Gowalia, it's going to be a fight without removing the front panel. This is the easiest and not that hard. Remove the top, by removing the 3 screws in the rear. The top will slide off toward the back. Next remove the control panel. Remove the 2 screws on each end on top. Remove the detergent drawer. Remove the torq screws behind the detergent drawer. The control panel will now snap off, pulling from the top and lifting up. Once freed, remove the control panel ribbon cable from the side of the main board. Now remove the screws holding the door switch mechanism in place. Remove the spring that holds the outer part of the boot from the front panel. Now remove the 4 quarter inch screws that hold the front panel and door on the front. Now you can install the new boot with ease. I know it sounds like a lot, but it is not that bad. Just reverse the process when the boot is on the tub. Make sure to have the mark on the boot ^ lined up with the mark on the tub on top. Catriver.
Posted on Sep 06, 2007
Somebody who shall remain unnamed decided to wash one of the boys' backpacks. The next day I was informed that the washing machine was leaking. Found a pair of disintegrated scissors jammed between the drum and the door gasket and two one-inch tears in that grey door seal, one on the top, the other right on the bottom. A new one goes for about $80 it seems.
I read the recommendations from the guru to take the front panel off. Which requires taking the dryer down. So I decided to try and take the gasket out without taking the front panel off. While I do agree that it would definitely be easier to take this seal off if the front panel wasn't there, I wasn't looking forward to lifting that dryer off and taking all that stuff apart. So I tried taking it off leaving all that alone. It's a little tight but definitely doable. First take off the metal band with the tension spring. Don't use a screw driver, it might slip and poke a hole in it. Fingernails. Then push the seal inside the washer and pry it off of the soap shute (on the left). The seal is held in place on the inside with a metal band clamp, looks like a huge hose clamp. The screw is on the right. While it does have a screw driver slot in it, I do not recommend you try to losen it with a screw driver. Access is limited and if that screw driver slips, you'll easily poke a hole in it. Use a 7 mm or 9/32" socket, with a 1/4" drive and use a screw driver type handle. One that ratchets is ideal if you have one, but a fixed one works too. You can create a little more space for yourself to work with by pushing the drum a little more to the left - it can move somewhat suspended from its springs. It took me no more than 2 minutes to get that band off. Now you can take the seal out. I was able to fix my tears with bicycle innertube repair patches, one on the inside and one on the outside of each tear. A little sanding to rough it up, good cleaning with alcohol. PVC pool repair stuff should work well too I think. Then came the fun of putting it all back together. Assembly is reverse order of the removal steps. Be sure to have the seal positioned perfectly because once its on the rim by the drum, there's no moving it anymore. You want to make sure that soap shute lines up with its hole in the seal. Put the bandclamp back on and carefully feel all around the edge making sure the clamp is inside its groove all the way around before tightening it. You have to so this completely by feel. Not that hard. Tighten the bandclamp well. Put the soap shute in the hole, put the seal around the the front panel groove and put the spring-loaded band back in. Entire job took me an hour. Free! :)
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
Cherubshere, I would recommend finding someone to help lift the dryer off so you can use catriver's solution. It would be a real bear to try to do this with the front panel on because of the tight clearances; if doable at all. I know catriver's solution will work, because I just got done replacing mine, and it worked great! The only slight adjustment I had to make for mine was to remove the lower front panel before the upper front panel so I could get to the bottom 2 screws. This just required removing 3 screws from the bottom of the lower front panel so it could be removed.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
I had the same problem. I went to a Sears repair centre and purchased a new boot seal. I then followed Catriver's instructions--easy peasy--and I'm not that mechanically inclined. So . . . . . if I can do it, you can too! PG
Posted on Aug 23, 2010
How to remove front display on kenmore washer elite so i can switch and replace switch
Posted on Mar 02, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had same problem. Followed advice on post (i.e., remove bottom panel three screws, unscrew filter cap (have lots of towels cause it will drain), remove filter and voila!). Found one sock, a quarter, and some other junk clogging the drain. Saved $55 house service call. Thanks all!
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
removethe lower acess panel 3 screws across the bottom , run the cycle and watch to see where exctly the leak is coming from it should be quite apparent
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws
under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up
the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will
make access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
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