Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
maytag performa dryer Model PDGT910AWW
"No Heat" complaint.
Firstly, make sure that you have selected/ascertained a "Heat" setting, then read the checklist below provided by;
www.repairclinic.com
They also provide disassembly diagrams and repair parts..
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
IgniterGas valve coilsThermal fuse
Igniter
Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils
Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
There is a "black button" with 2 black wires going to it on the side of the gas tube. Black button (size of 3 stacked dimes) has a yellow dot on it. Checking ok with ohm meter.
Thank you very much. Vents are open and clear. Looks like this is not the problem as I have continuity. Doesn't seem like the fuse has burned through. Going through the electrical connections, I am not getting power at the wire connection just before the coils. Here is a picture of the connection I am talking about: http://www.applianceaid.com/image/conect... I am thinking that I have a problem in the control center. Just not sure how to troubleshoot the dials. The main dial has about 10 wires coming into it. Any suggestions?
Okay, that helped me eliminate the thermal fuse. According to my ohm meter, this is okay. I checked the solenoids with my ohm meter, and they appear okay also. Decided to go back and check power before the gas solenoids. One place I checked is pictured here: http://www.applianceaid.com/image/conect...
I don't have power here. Looks like a problem with the controls. Not sure how to troubleshoot this, about 10 wires coming out of the main dial. Any suggestions?
×