Disc drive slips under load & you have to jam shift arm to go rev
My owners manual does not have any imformation on adjustment of the disc drive on my 1983 ariens rm30 rear engine mower, about 5 years ago i changed the disc, in nuetral it would still be slightly engaged, and i would have to jam shift arm to get the reverse to engauge. the unit had original belts on it yet. used mostly in spring and fall with the bager unit on it, any instuctions would be appreciated. thanks bill;
Re: disc drive slips under load & you have to jam shift...
Check the tension on the belt tensioner....check to see if the belt guides are not under the belt anywher, rather over the top with 1/4 in clearance.....(the guides are just metal round bars either welded on or they are put on with a bolt (eye on the guides)
If the tensioner does not clear away from the belt, that would be why it shifts hard.
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perhaps you're looking at early signs of clutch wear. DO NOT be driving it util you accomplish an adjustment. Even though you may not realize it, it may be slipping at low gears, only detectable in high gear when it's under it's greatest load. Adjust your cable at either end, you should have about 1/4 inch free play to be sure the clutch is completely out, and it shouldn't creep or be difficult to shift out of neutral. It's an educated "feel" thing, you'll never go wrong spending a couple bucks and buying a service manual which lays it out step by step.
We've all done it, or one of our youngsters do it for us... knock the multi disc tray out of sync with the drive gears.
With multi disc trays, the CD drive has to move out of the way during disc change and tray loading. Occasionally a disc jams, someone forces the tray movement, and you hear the GRIND, GRIND, GRIND of slipping gears.
Most designs have a switch-hit gear setup that's self correcting for small adjustments but occasionally the mechanism slips beyond self correcting.
Here's the process to open up and fix the tray alignment for Harman's FL8385 CD Changer.
if you have followed your manual for adjustments on page 10 of your manual then check your friction disc and friction plate. If your disc is worn then your cannot compensate for that replace disc and or plate
It sounds like the linkage in the transmission has slipped. Check the linkage adjustment from the gear shift to the transmission. It sounds like it has slipped into neutral, and automative transmissions will not start in neutral.
Try moving the gear shift back and forth and have a friend see if the linkage, viewable from under the hood (though you may have to remove the air box first), is moving as well. If it is, disconnect the cable off the link and manually push the arm into park. Try to start the car. If your car starts, then this is definitely the problem. Go to your local transmission dealership for information on repair.
it could be possible that your clutch is slipping at high revs,depending on its age[wear and tear].does it also slip under normal driving conditions?if so then it needs replacing.to change the discs to ventilated,the brake pads are different and the brake callipers need to be changed..cheers
i would check with the owners manual to see if it shows an adjustment for the belt drive. most mowers today are equipped with a self adjusting arm witha pulley tensioner with a spring attatched to it. as the belt stretches the tensioner spring pulls against the arm causing it to apply tension to the belt thus tightening it. it sounds as if your belt is stretched beyond the limits of the tensioner. at least every new season it would be a good idea to inspect the belt tensioner for room or space of free play. that is to check to see if it will move opposite the pulley allowing the belt to tighten. if there is not enough sufficient room then i suggest replacement of the drive belt.
Honda requires a highly friction modified fluid,or additive.Drain the fluid and replace with genuine Honda fluid.This should calm down the shifts a little.Fluid level is checked with the engine OFF.Also on your year Honda,there is a cable that runs from the accellerator linkage under the hood,down to the transmission.This cable is responsible for shift timing,and shift FEEL,and it is adjustable for these purposes.At the transmission are 2....12 mm nuts jammed against each other with a steel bracket in between.Loosen the nuts,and then the cable can be adjusted.For a softer shift feel,loosen the nuts,and take the end of the cable,and move it TOWARD the little arm (down) sticking out from the trans.This effectively makes the cable SHORTER resulting in softer shifts.For harder and later shifts,move the cable the opposite way,effectively making the cable LONGER.Beware though.adjusting the cable TOO much towards the softer side can cause the trans to start slipping and actually burn up clutch packs inside the trans,so some common sense is needed when adjusting the cable.Good luck,and remember to rate this solution.
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