Wp-dc8 waterproof case Silicon grease where how much

check for dry /dirty action causing the rubber not to move freely
clean and it may be necessary to use a lubricant ( silicon /rubber grease ) to allow the rubber to slip easily

swiss army batt 20110106 1810

Oh, that's a bad sign. You might be able to fix the problem by replacing the diverter motor (and putting some silicon grease or silicon seal) on the mating surfaces. In more extreme cases, where the leaking water has damaged other parts, it may be necessary to replace the whole pump/sump/motor assembly, and maybe the wiring harness if the water has damaged or corroded the connectors.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Normally COP failure is due to moisture getting into the spark plug bore. When you install the COP's be make sure the plug boot is coated where it seals to the head with electric silicon grease prior to installing. I use the silicon grease on both ends of the plug boot, personally I just fill up both ends of the boot and also fill up the connector also. FYI don't buy those little packages at the parts counter at $2 a piece, Napa and Orelly's sales a can for $8 and it is well worth it. Since I have began coating the sealing surface of the boot and putting it in the connector I have not had any issues with failing COP's. Another thing that could cause COP's to consistently fail would be leaking injector O-rings. I'm not saying the gas is causing the moisture problem, could be but lets hope not. What you would be looking for in this case is dust that looks like it has been wet and surrounding the injector. O-rings come in a set of four and you will need two sets, one for the fuel rail and one for the head, also use silicon grease in the injector connection, I apply it to every electrical connection. Hope this helps.

In most cases, the squeaking is caused by the steering column where it goes through the firewall, there is a rubber dust seal where the shaft goes through. Try to lubricate the shaft where it makes contact by pushing the rubber boot back a little then applying a clear silicon grease or silicon spray to the area of contact. If you do need to replace your steering shaft this site looks like it has cheap prices, free shipping and great reviews http://www.buyautoparts.com/steering-shaft.html

Coffee is leaking past the silicon gasket. To get to the gasket, look for a round plastic plug in the top of the handle and pry it up. Under the plug is a screw that prevents the top of the carafe from twisting off. Remove the screw. Will now be able to unscrew the the plastic handle/top part from the stainless steel pot.

Between the 2 pieces is a silicon rubber gasket. Clean everything good. lubricate the gasket all over with "Plumbers Faucet and Valve Grease" available from Ace Hardware. It is waterproof and resists high temperatures.

Replace the silicon gasket making sure the groove fits over the top lip of the pot. Screw the handle/top part on the pot clockwise. It will only twist a short distance, but make sure it is very snug.

You do not need to replace the screw. This will make it easier to take apart if it leaks again. You might be able to get by with petroleum jelly instead of plumber's grease.

Take out the head light bulb partially and turn on the brights. the water will dry out in seconds. The seal for the head light is leaking so take the headlight assembly out and look for where is leaking use clear silicon for the housing and look at where the bulb fits into it and make sure its sealed up also. Use lithium or silicon grease. if it has a o ring seal

you put the silicone grease on ever rubber part, the o rings washers and stops

hi, the problem is trying to repair it can be hard and there are no guarantees its going to solve the problem, what some people use is silicon you can buy this from most diy stores and then when you put it on the rubber seal keep building it up untill it covers the whole or where it leaks.
Now doing this dosnt mean its going to solve the problem sometimes you can get it just right and then get at least a few months extra use out of it but on the other hand you might still have water leaking as its difficult to create a seal with to seperate materials ie the rubber seal and the silicon plus over time this would fail causing the seal to leak again.

You could try doing it but you may find it wont solve your problem.

What you could do is buy a new door seal you should be able to get one ordered from a local electrical appliance repair shop, but the problem you have is depending on how old the machine is would depend on wether its financially worth spending the money as its its over say 3 years old then the chances are you could soon be replacing motors and belts etc but this all depends on age.

You could try the silicon first as an emergency fix but their is no guarantee that it will last that long so its up to you.

replacing the whole seal would cost the price of the seal plus someone fitting it for you unless you could do this your self.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance

Is the seal damaged - if so replace it as this is the best solution, if not see below -

This is a common problem caused by the rubber seal. Remove the seal and then put a small bead of silicon rubber sealant all the way around the metal lip it fits on - then replace the seal. Next when the sealant has set, clean the boot lid where the seal makes contact and also the seal itself with a silicon spray polish (Mr Sheen) this should cure the problem if the water is entering via this seal. Also make sure that the gully around the boot lid is clean. If this cures the problem, every few weeks clean and treat the seal and lid with silicon spray.

Hope this helps - good luck.