Fridge door problem

Examine the hinges. They may be bolted from the outside at the door side. Another option is remove the 'drop pins' holding the two half's of the hinge together. Some hinge pins are only held in with a spring clip. Your only other option is to remove the front wing and unbolt the door with the hinges still on.
To remove the pins-
NOTE THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB!!
Proceed as follows...
Support the weight of open the door.
Tap the spring clip sideways off the thin end of the pins,
(located top of the top hinge and bottom of the bottom hinge).
Tap the bottom pin upwards then the top hinge downwards.
You might need to wriggle the door to get them to move.
REFITTING
Put the bottom pin in first as it 'drops' in and the upper pin pushes up into position.
Again, you will have to wriggle the door and GENTLY tap the pins into place.
Swopping the the pins makes it easier to line up the new door as it closes.

Hi Mel, I looked for a manual for your fridge but couldnt find one. These jobs are pretty similar - regardless of brand however.

You should first deremine if your model does indeed support swapping the hardware to allow the door to swing the other direction. Look at the points of attachement for the handles and hinges on the door and the fridge body itself. There are typoically pre drilled holes for fasteners in these parts on the opposite side - but have plugs or covers over them to minimize their appearance. if you have these tell tale indicators present - you're good to go.

The process will require removal of all products stored on the doors of the fridge and freezer compartments, and placing in a thermal container or cooler.

The hinges consist of one at the top, one at the bottom and usually one in the center that engages both the bottom of the top door and the top of the bottom door.

At the top, you may need to remove a bezel or cover to gain access to the fastener head(s). Many times these are hex head screws, but could be any type really. Two, 3 or more fasteners may be used to hold the top inge to the fridge. Once the screws are loosened / removed the tops door will shift - so be ready for it (or have afriend support it while you remove the fasteners). The doors are surprisingly light - a thein meta outer jacket wrapped around a lightweight drame, lots of insulation and plastic is it really is. Lift the top door up and away from the center hinge pin. You may find one or more spacers or washers made of metal or more likely - nylon. Remove these and set aside as they will likely be needed to put back in place when the hardware is reversed.

The lower door is being help by the center and bottom hinges now. You should have access to fasteners holding the center hinge to the fridge. Support the bottom door as you loosened and remove the fasteners on the center hinge If you are unable to access the fasteners of the center hinge, try the fasteners on bottom hinge instead. If you get the center hinge loosened, you should be able to lift on the door slightly to roll it out from between the center and bottom hinge. otherwise, when the bottom hinge fasteners are removed, the door will drop and be free from the fridge. Look for similar spacers or washers on the bottom hinge pin that yuou found on the top of the center hinge pin and save them.

Remove any remaining hinges from the fridge.

Remove door handle hardware from both doors and remove plugs / covers from the opposite side of the doors. Secure the door handles to the otherside and insert the plugs and covers into the holes that had previously been used to fasten the handles.

Remove the covers / plugs from the fridge and insert into the opening that previously fastened the hinges to the fridge. Swap any covers / plugs on the doors for hinges if needed.

Reinstall the hinges and doors in reverse order of removal. If the bottom hinge was last to come off - it is first to go on. Reinstall the spacers on the pin. The bottom door is placed on the bottom hinge pin. Place the center hinge pin into the recess of the top door and secure the hinge to the fridge. Place the spacers over the top pin of the center hinge. Place the top door recess over the center hing pin. Align the top hinge with the recess on the top of the door and insret fasteners through top hinge into fridge. Hand tighten all fasteners. Operate doors and check for rubbing, binding, etc. Adjust number and location of spacers as needed to allow doors to swing without scraping or binding. Once satisifed, tighten all fasteners. Adjust feet of fridge as need to allow the doors to close by themselves if left open by accident. Restock fridge & freezer.

Done!

Put a jack under the door with a piece of 2x4, as close to the middle as you can. Jack up the door, watching the hinge pin until pin is in the center of the movement range. Put a long metal rod or socket extension on the bottom of the pin and tap out with a hammer. Use same rod to remove bronze - alloy bushing. Tap new bushing in and use a 16 penny nail to check alignment of holes in hinge to bushing, raise or lower jack to center. Tap in new hinge pin. Release jack and check door for alignment on latchpin - If low, jack up door to relieve pressure, loosen upper / lower hinge bolts, raise door with jack approximately 1/8 inch, retighten bolts, remove jack and test Repeat procedure until pin strikes the center of the latch..

I did my own search for the same problem and saw Dougs question and lack of a solution. I have the same sagging door problem and was looking for a fix.
First, when I removed the weight of the items from inside the door, the door closes properly. This means that the door is not very sturdy and cannot hold the weight of items placed on door shelving. There are NO adjustment mechanisms on the door hinges either. Bad on Amana. The GOOD NEWS is that I fixed the problem.
Take out all items from the door shelves. I removed the top hinge with the door closed to keep it from falling. I took the door off and placed it on the floor. The lower hinge has a plastic pivot over a steel pin - remove that for a moment. Place steel washers over the steel pin - about .080" or so thickness. Replace the plastic pivot. Replace the door. Add the normal weight of items back on the door shelves. The door closes perfectly. At least until the door sags again and I'll need to add another shim.

1. Remove sliding door trim panel , watershield, and access hole cover plates.
2. Unlatch pizza sliding door.

3. Remove latch actuator rod retainer from center door retainer hole.

4. Disconnect pizza rear door latch actuator rod from pizza remote control assembly by opening pizza clip.

5. Open pizza door sufficiently to gain access to pizza three bolts attaching pizza rear latch to pizza sliding door. Remove bolts.

6. Remove pizza sliding door rear latch with pizza remote control actuator rod attached to pizza latch, from pizza sliding door.------------- First you need to get the right tools for the job and the right parts to fix the problem.There is a hinge pin in both the upper and lower hinges and four brass bushings and there is two different size bushings in each hinge and also two hinge pin retaining washers.as for the tools you need a spring compressor,jack,hammer,punch. First open the door all the way,put jack under door,I like to use a 2by4 board on top of the jack to help spread the wieght of the door out a little,next if the door has a wireing harness in the jamp loosen the rubber insulation form both the door and the body this gives a couble of inches of slack in the wireing.Next use the spring compressor to remove the spring,then use the punch and hammer to drive out the pins.it is very hard to get them to move an first but gets easyer as they start to move.I would recomend having a helper to hold the door upright as it will fall when the pin is removed from the hinge.Onece the pins are out move the door and jack away from the body to gain more axcess room the replace the bushings,two in the door side and two in the body side,then slide door and jack back and align hinge holes and install new pins. I allways grease the bushing and pins before installing.Drive the new pins all the way flush with the hinge and install the retainers.Reinstall the spring and reattach the wireing insulation. ------- Open the door so it is directly above the bench. Observe how all the fasteners, be they bolts or pins with bushings, are aligned. Generally, the bolts and pins point toward the center of the hinge from the top or bottom, The bolts and bushings are on the body-side bracket for the upper bracket and the door bracket for the lower one. This will help. Thanks please keep updated. please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

GM Full-Size Trucks 1988-1998 Repair Information Doors - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

R/V Series
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
If the door being removed is to be reinstalled, matchmark the hinge position.

1. If the door is to be replaced with a new one, remove the trim panels weathersheets and all molding.
   

Fig. 1: Door hinge-R/V Series

1. If the door is to be replaced with a new one, remove the glass, locks and latches.
2. If equipped with a wiring harness, remove the trim panel and disconnect the harness. Guide the wiring out of the door.
3. Support the door and remove the hinge-to-body attaching bolts. Lift the door from the truck.
4. Install the door.
5. Perform the alignment procedures indicated below.
   

Fig. 2: Door hinge components-C/K Series



Fig. 3: Removing the hinge spring


C/K Series

1. On trucks with power components in the door, disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. On trucks with power components in the door, remove the cowl side vent cover.
3. On trucks with power components in the door, disconnect the wiring going to the door, under the dash panel. Feed the wiring through the door pillar.
4. Cover the door hinge spring with a heavy towel. Using tool J-36604 or its equivalent, insert the blades of the tool between the spring coils and turn the barrel nut to compress and hold the spring. Remove the spring using the tool.
5. Remove the lower hinge pin retainer.
6. Using a plastic or rubber mallet and locking pliers, remove the lower hinge pin.
7. Install a bolt through the lower hinges to hold the door while removing the upper hinge pin.
8. Remove the upper hinge pin retainer.
9. Remove the upper hinge pin.
10. Support the door and remove the bolt from the lower hinge.
    

To install:

1. Position the door and install the bolt in the lower hinge.
2. Install the upper hinge pin. with the pointed end up.
3. Install a new upper hinge pin retainer.
4. Remove the bolt from the lower hinges.
5. Install the lower hinge pin with the pointed end down.
6. Install a new lower hinge pin retainer.
7. Using tool J-36604, install the hinge spring.
8. On trucks with power components in the door, connect the wiring going to the door, under the dash panel. Feed the wiring through the door pillar.
9. On trucks with power components in the door, install the cowl side vent cover.
10. On trucks with power components in the door, connect the battery ground cable.

ADJUSTMENTSee Figure 4 The holes for the hinges are oversized to provide for latitude in alignment. Align the door hinges first, then the striker.
C/K series utilize hinges that are welded to the door and frame. No adjustment is possible except when replacement hinges have been installed.



Fig. 4: Door adjustment check points

1. If a door is being installed, first mount the door and tighten the hinge bolts lightly.
   

If the door has not been removed, determine which hinge bolts must be loosed to effect alignment.

1. Loosen the necessary bolts just enough to allow the door to be moved with a padded prybar.
2. Move the door in small movements and check the fit after each movement.
   

Be sure that there is no binding or interference with adjacent panels.

1. Repeat this procedure until the door is properly aligned.

R/V Series:
Door edge-to-rocker panel: 6mm Door edge-to-roof panel: 5mm Door edge-to-rear pillar: 5mm Door edge-to-front pillar: 2mm
C/K Series:
Door edge-to-rocker panel: 6mm Door edge-to-roof panel: 6mm Door edge-to-rear pillar: 4mm Door edge-to-front pillar: 7mm Door front edge-to-fender: 5mm

1. Tighten all the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).

Shims may be either fabricated or purchased to install behind the hinges as an aid in alignment.

Hope this help, TY for using Fixya (remember comment and rated this). Good luck.

If the door pops open after you close it, or the door is hard to push closed, the door closing mechanism has probably failed. Make sure you check for the obvious things, such as something sticking out of one of the shelves or orange juice cans rolling around the door shelf area causing the door to bounce back open when the door is slammed.


If you notice any unusual sounds when the door is opening and closing, such as a clicking or grinding sound, your door closer is probably worn.


There are three common types of door closers used in domestic refrigerators and freezers. We list here all three, along with how to access each component in order to change it.


The most common door closers used today are small plastic cams mounted at the bottom of the refrigerator and freezer doors. When you open the door, you cause the door to climb up onto the lower cam. When the door is released, the incline helps the door shut. To view a common door cam kit, <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1035 ">click here</a>. You can see how the upper and lower cams each have a hill and valley that work against each other to make the system work.


In order to change these, remove all food in the door, and remove the upper hinge in order to take the door off. Most hinges have a plastic cover that can be removed by prying up on it to expose the upper hinge screws. Usually, the cams mount with one screw -- one on the bottom hinge and the other on the outer door panel. On some models, the lower cam is riveted onto the lower hinge, and it's easier to purchase the lower hinge complete rather than try to drill out the old rivet.



If the cams you are replacing are for the freezer door that has a water line going through the middle of the cam, you not only have to remove the door but you must also disconnect the water line. Most water lines are fed through a channel in the door panel and clamped into place in the dispenser housing. Or, there may be a quick disconnect fitting behind the kick plate or apron on the unit. Once you've installed the new cams, you may want to put a light coating of lithium or silicone grease on the surfaces where the cams meet.


Another type of door closer is actually part of the upper hinge assembly itself. To view this style of closer <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=781123 ">click here</a>.


In order to change this style, pop off the hinge cover, and remove the screws that retain the upper hinge. From there, pry up on the hinge and pull it through the hole in the outer door panel. If the spring is broken and will not come through the hole, remove the inner door panel. This is a big job so you might want to remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Fold back the door gasket and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the door until you can separate the inner door from the outer door to gain access to the hinge assembly.


A third type of door closer commonly used is one that is internally mounted to the outer door panel, and you must separate the inner and outer door panel to gain access to the closer. To view this type of closer <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=616347 ">click here</a>. In this style, the hinge pin actually goes through the closer. The hinge pin has a flat spot on each side of it that meshes with the cams on the closer. To view this style of hinge pin <a href=" http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=641650">click here</a>. On some Sub Zero units, this closer is mounted to the lower portion of the door and removal of the inner door panel is not necessary.

The electrical connector at the top of the hinge cover is not connected properly.  Pull the left hinge cover and make sure that the electrical connections are secure.