The pin on my power connector is broken

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Bad cable connection

Check the USB cable for damage and dirt, especially at the ends. Then try using the wall charger, as this will provide greater power input than the computer/USB.

Broken charger or USB cord

Try using different chargers to see if you may have a problem with your charger or cord.

Obstructed/bad dock connector

Inspect the 30-pin dock connector at the bottom of the iPhone for dirt, lint, and damaged pins. Clean out the dock connector very carefully with a tooth pick or soft toothbrush. If the dock connector is broken, you will have to replace it.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Bad cable connection

Check the USB cable for damage and dirt, especially at the ends. Then try using the wall charger, as this will provide greater power input than the computer/USB.

Broken charger or USB cord

Try using different chargers to see if you may have a problem with your charger or cord.

Obstructed/bad dock connector

Inspect the 30-pin dock connector at the bottom of the iPhone for dirt, lint, and damaged pins. Clean out the dock connector very carefully with a tooth pick or soft toothbrush. If the dock connector is broken, you will have to replace it.

Bad cable connection

Check the USB cable for damage and dirt, especially at the ends. Then try using the wall charger, as this will provide greater power input than the computer/USB.

Broken charger or USB cord

Try using different chargers to see if you may have a problem with your charger or cord.

Obstructed/bad dock connector

Inspect the 30-pin dock connector at the bottom of the iPhone for dirt, lint, and damaged pins. Clean out the dock connector very carefully with a tooth pick or soft toothbrush. If the dock connector is broken, you will have to replace it.
God bless you

Search through the pages, Boris,

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=coaxial+connectors

Regards,
joecoolvette

This Code relates o the fuser unit, needs to be replace but if this code keep coming constantly from time to time than you need to check this:
There is a two wire power connector from the switching regulator ( by the interlock switch ) that goes to the fuser connector. This is one of the areas we check for the 6000 error code.
You could also check for a small piece of paper lodged in the fuser connector, both on the fuser and the one at the engine board.
also Check the power at the wall outket. Low power will cause 6000 errors.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mustafa_06f84c65ab5cc745

Broken heater lamp error

The temperature won't rise by 1°C/33.8 °F during warming up and the heater is turned on for 5 seconds.

The temperature won't rise by 1°C/33.8 °F during printing and the heater is turned on for 5 seconds with the duty cycle more than 60%.

1. Defective fuser thermistor.

2. Broken thermal cutout or heater lamp.

3. Defective engine/high voltage PWB.

Turn power switch off, and remove power cord.

Detach YC7 connector on the engine/high voltage PWB.

Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the detached connector.

Open (infinite)?

Yes Then - Replace the fuser thermistor.

No Then - Detach YC1 connector on the power source PWB.

- Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the detached connector.

Open (infinite)?

Yes - Replace the thermal cutout or heater lamp.

No - Replace the engine/high voltage PWB.


I hope this was helpful,
Shawn

Broken heater lamp error
The temperature won't rise by 1°C/33.8
°F during warming up and the heater is
turned on for 5 seconds.
The temperature won't rise by 1°C/33.8
°F during printing and the heater is
turned on for 5 seconds with the duty
cycle more than 60%.

Causes:
- Defective fuser thermistor.
- Broken thermal cutout or heater lamp.
- Defective engine/high voltage PWB.


Follow the flow chart:

Turn power switch off, and
remove power cord.

Detach YC7 connector on
the engine/high voltage
PWB.

Measure resistance
between pins 1 and 2 of
the detached connector.

Open
(infinite)?

Yes ---> Replace the fuser thermistor.
NO ----> Detach YC1 connector on the power source PWB.

Measure resistance
between pins 1 and 2 of
the detached connector.

Open
(infinite)?

Yes ---> Replace the thermal cutout or heater lamp.
NO ----> Replace the engine/high voltage PWB.

Broken pins are common on these power supplies. The units are hard to find. If yours only has broken pins in the connector, find the connector type and have it replaced. Fifeteen minute job...

They probably use MINI DIN types available from Digikey.com or Mouser.com.

just find another similar device with broken screen, buy it steal whatever and replace the screen with yours, should work

It is LIKELY that one or more pins and or wires in the remote cable are broken.

These MINI DIN connectors are "tender" and are easily broken and wires flex at the back of the connector and are broken.

FIRST check that all pins are present at BOTH ENDS of the cable.

NEXT use an ohmmeter to check continuity of each and every pin end-to-end. I suspect you will find one or more broken.

Be aware that repairing this cable requires patience and steady hand as the pins are so close together it is easy to have solder bridges, etc. Sometimes just opening the connectors are a problem to access the pins. Sometimes the cables are MOLDED and those are UNREPAIRABLE other than cutting off the bad conector and replacing it. You can usually buy replacement connectors at DIGIKEY.com and or Mouser.com. You have to CAREFULLY select the apporpriate pin configuration from the catalog page. One needs a small soldering iron and magnifying glass to work on the cable.

USUALLY the wires go from pin to pin. Also a shield on the cable has to be dressed and connected usually. You may find the shell of the connector tied to a pin or just the sheild of the cable.