Question about Speakers & Subwoofers
The power supply has 3 conductors -- Red, Black, Brown attached to transformer -- left to right. On the other (appliance) end, the power cord attachment has three hole connector sleeve with conductor solder lugs labeled 1 2 3. As the conductors were torn off the connector sleeve, I cannot be sure what color goes with which number. I have tried to look inside at the transformer end, but do not see any corresponding numbers on the circuit board. Please assist. Many Thanks Ed Werner
I am teh person who started this thread and I am happy to find the solution. The problem is not with Speaker but it is with DVD player. Infact it is not a problem, it is the setting which needs to be changed.
Go to the Setup menu and change the Speaker settings and set it to MultiChannel. This will give you sound to rear and center whenever it has to.
Hope this helps as it has to me.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
SOURCE: 8 wires on my subwoofer??
"One has positive and negative input, another positive and negative output (red and black on each)"
Just from your description, it sounds like pos/neg input are the 12 volt pos neg supply for the amp inside the subwoofer. Red is pos, black is neg.
"positive and negative output (red and black on each)"
This sounds like it's used if you want to proved 12 volt pos/neg to another component.
"and a third wire with left input right input positive and negative (blue, red, yellow and black)"
This is for the cables coming from the "subwoofer out" on the amp. This is 4 wires altogether -- correct?
Posted on May 08, 2009
Well yes transformers do fail and the transformer does say it has an internal fuse fitted which might have failed. The fuse on the board blowing is an indication of overload. The fact it didn't blow again shows that it is not getting any power or the fault has gone (doubtfull).
I doubt the transformer is a step up. But follow the circuit on the pc board till you come to electroytic capicator. This will have a voltage on it. The power level will be no more and perhaps less than the voltage on the capacitor. Another clue to the power level is if the secondary wires are narrower than those that go to the mains. That will indicate that less voltage comes out.
OK what to do. Well most makers say that the transformer is a safety item so it has to be replaced with the same type or one which is approved by the maker. So you can either contact the maker direct or find a service center, (for the brand) which might order you a replacement, or take the transformer to Radio Shack with details of the model number of the Sub, and see if they can get it for you. While there have a look at the multimeters. You should find one that will help you for all your future needs. I recomend one with a scale (rather than a digital). They are some around for £10 to £20 (I know you live in the USA but you can convert it) that will do what you might need it for.
The first thing to do if you get a meter is check with the ohm setting diodes or bridge rectifiers for shorts. IE: as if you had touch both probes together! Also do the same with any transitors you might find. As this could be the cause of the fuse blowing, and even the transformer's failure.
Posted on Mar 23, 2010
If you're still alive, you're lucky the transformer is blown or you would have melted the speaker coil. Home audio speakers aren't designed for direct and constant ac voltage from a transformer. If there was a substantial AC output you may have heard a brief LOUD 60-hz tone and then silence and smoke and maybe the lights would have gone out, too.
Ideally the secondary AC voltage (Blue/Orange) gets rectified to some DC level to drive the internal audio power amplifier which would be controlled by the bass audio signals entering via RCA cable from your audio source.
Maybe your future troubleshooting would best be served by buying a Digital volt/ohmmeter. I'd check for continuity in the primary and secondary windings to start. The unfortunate thing is that the real source of your problem is probably NOT the transformer. Even if it shorted out internally it would only trip the breaker controlling your wall outlet. The internal fuse blowing says the short or overcurrent condition was internal to the sub. The fuse may have blown a microsecond too late to save the secondary winding in the transformer, so now you may have TWO problems.
I'd stop messing around with it and ask an audio pro to take a look. Even if you find output voltage at the secondary you still don't know what it should be and what happens next circuit-wise. We still don't know what led up to the blown fuse.
Posted on Mar 23, 2010
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