Battery life is poor or fails to charge sufficiently
Hi there, I was wondering whether anybody might be aware of this problem and how to rectify this issue with this camera. It seems that the life/recharge nature of the integral Lithium battery is extremely poor/non-existent. Is there a way around this by substituting the original supplied battery with a more robust and reliable compatible camera battery alternative. Or is it a problem with the recharger or is it a problem with the camera itself. I realise that the camera is (1) inexpensive and (2) is now out of date but was wondering how might it be possible to (1) ascertain where the problem is and (2) what is required to solve this problem without having the resort of buying another camera. Thanks for any help or suggestions offered.
Re: Battery life is poor or fails to charge sufficiently
You can try other lithium batteries. If no luck and your camera is over 3 years old you may just have to buy a new one. The old ones cost as much or more to repair than the price of a new one. Then you could try Amazon for new/refurbished/used ones. I use Consumer Reports to get ratings on all products I buy. You may want to try that.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Generally that indication implies generator failure. Generator failure can come in multiple forms. A faulty ground will cause the generator not to charge and potentially burn it up. A severed phase wind (remember, your alternator is really a three-phase generator with a six pulse front end rectifier set) will cause the light to intermittently come on along with weak charging output. A voltage regulator failure will cause zero field current in the rotor. A brush failure will also cause a generator failure light to come on and stay on. A rectifier failure (any of the six) will cause the generator not to charge properly and turn on the MIL and generator failure indicator (looks like a battery). The condition of the battery can also cause generator failure, if the battery is defective (buckled plates, weak electrolyte, low water, etc.) it will place a very high load on the generator continuously, causing it to 'full field' the rotor which can cause the rotor to overheat and fail. Never run a generator without the battery terminals connected as this will cause it to fail quite spectacularly. Do not attempt to verify output of the generator with the battery terminal leads disconnected.
If generator failure is indeed the cause, find out why. Generators rarely fail. When they do, it usually is caused by poor ground connections, corroded battery terminals, high continuous loads, electrical faults and poorly-wired ancillary equipment, such as head units, amplifiers, inverters, etc. Always check all these out when replacing the generator. Never run a generator without the battery terminals connected as this will cause it to fail quite spectacularly.
The two main causes of battery life loss that no one thinks of are:
backlight settings (if you don't really need the backlight to stay on for 60 seconds after the last button press, lower it. this is a huge waste of battery life and it is easily changed in the settings menu of nearly every phone i have seen)
poor signal areas (when you have low signal, you phone wastes its battery life searching for acquirable signal. if it is unable to locate the signal, it will continue to search. this search uses up your battery life quite rapidly)
Hi, Laptop battery notification is not accurate but approximate. The remaining battery usage is calculated approximately and then notified to the user. If your battery's life is more than a year, then the calculation goes on decreasing. It cannot be rectified unless you go for a new battery. But still you can tweak the battery life by, 1. Switch of the wireless adaptor when not in use. 2. Decrease the screen brightness. 3. Configure your power plan in control panel to minimal power usage mode while on battery. 4. The notification limit for battery low can be custom configured in the control panel. set it to 30 % and this will prevent your laptop to dye without power as your battery power drains faster below 31% I hope this is helpful to understand the logic behind this.
The only easy way is for you to buy the service manual - it is pretty hard to tell you how to service your regulator if you don't know what it is...
And it is - or at least something in the charging circuit.
Early Suzukis had consistent charging problems, resulting in run-down batteries, short battery life, hard starting and frequent stator and regulator/rectifier replacement. Some of the problem is due to poor quantity or corroded electrical connectors, some to a poor ground to the regulator/rectifier and some just poor quality components or design. Keeping the connectors on the three stator wires clean and by running a heavy ground wire directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the regulator/rectifier mounting bolt will help.
You can download the GR650 manual here - just look for the tiny "Save file to your PC: click here" at the bottom right of the page.
I've used the search function with several variables with no concrete success and my Haynes manual only covers the single-phase regulator rectifiers.
Here's what I got:
-Charge the battery wait 30 minutes after disconnecting and it shows good volts.
-Disconnect the ground (-) terminal and check the draw with all systems off 0.6mA. That's a bit higher than I'd like but not horrible. Disconnecting the ECU fuse it drops to nil.
-Reconnect and run the engine at idle the volts across the battery show right about 12.
-Increase RPM to 3000 and the volts steady a bit but still remain at 12.
Everyone seems to think that stators rarely fail on these machines, but I'd like to be certain before I drop $80 or more on the regulator/rectifier. Anybody out there got a good idea?,Battery voltage at the battery should stabilize at aroun 14V, not 12V. The battery should be at about 12.5 when left overnight.
My ST2 will hit 14V at 2k RPM with no lights, 3lk with low beams, 4k lo+hi.,,,
1)camera is not turning on .
Is the battery inserted correctly?
Check the direction of the battery.
Is the battery sufficiently charged?
Use a battery that has been sufficiently charged.
2)camera switches off after powered on
* Is the battery charge insufficient to operate the camera?
Use a battery that has been sufficiently charged.
* If you leave the camera on, the battery will be exhausted. Turn the camera off frequently by using power save mode or economy mode etc.