Question about Alpine MRV-F345 Car Audio Amplifier

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No sound The amp and fan turn on so does the display, but I can get any sound out of it, I bench tested it hooked up to a 12v pwoer source that is no the strongest but it powers up other amps w/ no problems, got a suggestion ???

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This is a good start but, I would make sure that the power supply you are using is able to supply the current needed to power this unit. Once that is done I would use a dummy load to emulate the speaker connections and the use an oscilloscope to monitor the audio output signal. If you still have no output it would be safe to assume that the internal circuitry of the amplifier is at fault. I would suggest that you get a schematic and trace the audio signal through the unit using the signal path guide on the schematic. This will let you know where the signal is dropping off at and if the drop off is being caused by protection circuitry or if on of your amplification stages are at fault.

Posted on Sep 03, 2007

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How do I bench test?


A bench test will require a 12VDC source, such as an car battery. You would connect wires according to the instuctions (i.e., red to 12v(+), black to 12v(-), and the required ignition wire you can toggle by touching it to the 12v(+) when required. Your schematics should show how the relay needs to be wired. And it's really simple. 85 and 86 are the coils. In most cases, (for example), 85 will have a 12v(+) connection, 86 will receive an input from the remote keyless entry (RKE) to activate the option. So, if you're using this relay, say, to activate your 12V(+) parklights, the 12V(-) from the RKE will go to 86, you'll have another 12V(+) wire connected to 30, and the connection to the vehicles parklights will connect to 87. 87a will have no connection in this application. The 12v(+) to the relay should come from a fused 12v(+) source.Trunk release will work the same, depending on whether it's a positive or negative trigger (depends on vehicle). You'll use the trunk output (should be a negative output from RKE) to the relay as described above. If the Trunk release is a negative trigger, you would connect a wired from a ground source (i.e., metal screw in kick panel) to 30, and 87 would go to the trunk's trigger wire at the switch.

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1 Answer

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an amplifier needs minimum voltage (usually 6Amps) to turn on. If there is 12V at the input of your amplifier, check the remote for 12V as well as making sure the ground is secured. I suspect based on limited information, that your alternator/charging system is the culprit.Take your amplifier to a local shop and have it bench tested (abuot $10) they will hook up to an independant power supply and verify its properly working. Then it can be eliminated as the source of the problem. Also be sure your wiring and fuse are accurate for the amount of current draw.
Since your protection has never come on, and the power light is going out altogether, you may have an input voltage problem.

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HEY, YOU REPLIED TO MY AMP PROB....


Are you sure that you hooked up the correct wire? You can try testing with a 12V test light, test with radio on then off, test to see if the wire has 12v when either source is turned on too. Other than that I will have to do a little bit of digging and see what I can come up with. I'll let you know what I find.

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Sounds like a protection problem. A relay may be stuck, or there really may be an internal problem you cannot see. Take it to a shop to have it bench tested independent of your vehicle.

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