Question about Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 910

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HUSKYLOCK 901 Novice user - can't get tension settings right for normal fabric serging. Book does not give enough information. Would like suggested settings

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Sometimes the thread tension needs to be cleaned out. I put a smal screw driver in where the silver tension guides are (between the dials) and open them up and wiggle them a little bit.
If the machine is cutting theads and or not catching threads on the back the timing may need to be adjusted.

What type of stitch are you trying to do?

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

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Does anyone have a suggestion? I have threaded the machine correctly but I cannot get the machine to sew.

You have a nice serger, so let's start with some basics:
Is your serger cleaned?
Go back to the instruction book and set the entire machine to the factory settings. For example, set all the dials to tension 4. Use quality thread which is made for your spool holder. Usually cones of thread work best. Use an appropriate fabric, not sheer, not very heavy drapery fabric. Make absolutely sure it's threaded properly. Finally, make sure all the threads are under the presser foot.....then start serging. If the serger still won't serge without tangling, it might be good to have it serviced. I find that buying a new serger is more useful than having a worn out one serviced. Good luck!

May 05, 2014 | Brother 925D Serger

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Huskylock 910 starts to serge normal and then begins to take extra thread and make a mess. what can I do to fix this?

try changing the needles
make sure the serger is threaded correctly
check for any burrs in the needle plate area, or on the loopers
also make sure the tension is adjusted correctly for the fabric

May 15, 2012 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 910

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I have just been given a huskylock 341. The tension is off. How do I correct this?

Have you used an overlocker before? If not, I'd suggest that you obtain a user manual for it as they are completely different to a sewing machine and at some point you will need to rethread it. You can purchase one from here

This machine makes three and four thread seams, which is a combination of two needles and two loopers. For the three thread seam you can use either the left or right needle which gives you different sized seams. For the four thread you use both needles, one goes through the middle of the seam and the other is on the left side securing the seam. tally_girl_70.jpg On most overlockers you are able to move the cutting blade too and this will reduce or increase the amount of fabric being trimmed from the right side.

This page will give you some general information on sergers/overlockers too.

So adjusting tension is a matter of changing the tension on the top and lower looper threads to close up against the cut edge, or moving the blade over to make the seam a little wider or narrower. You may also need to finess the left needle tension so that the seam doesn't pull apart, I always test serge two layers and then pull open from the right side and see if the needle thread is showing (it will show a little bit but you dont want it so loose that it pulls open. Only tighten the needles in very small increments though, as you'll break threads and needles if you turn them up too tight.

Hard to explain without seeing what your machine is seaming now. But as a rule of thumb, start with all four tension dials (or 3 if doing a three thread seam) on 5. If the tension dials are correctly calibrated then this should give you a pretty good seam. You may wish to lengthen the stitches, I usually work with stitch length of 2.5 (same as your sewing machine stitch length) Stitch length will be a dial on the right side beside the flywheel or in front of the blade area. The blade adjustment should be a little knob near the blade area too. There will be a lower fixed blade and a moving upper blade which sits against the lower one, they work like scissors to trim the fabric. So to adjust the blade, you will need to take the pressure off the upper blade, then wind the knob to move it left or right.

Different weights of fabric will behave differently on the overlocker so you do need to adjust tension for each new project. For example, if seaming a jersey knit you'd use a four thread seam, this gives elasticity and strength and you can join two garment pieces with this seam. You'd probably make a 6mm or 7mm wide seam, the left needle will secure the fabric and the loopers will encase the fabric smoothly while the right needle secures them and gives extra strenth to the seam.

But on organza for example, I would make a very narrow three thread seam using the right needle as the organza will roll inside the overlocking if you cut the fabric too wide.

And on something like curtains I would neaten the edge with a wide 3 thread seam using the left needle to get a very wide seam, the fabric wont roll so you'd need to loosen the two loopers a little to smoothly encase the cut edge.
tally_girl_71.jpg For example, on this image above you can see that the looper threads are laying a little off the edge of the fabric in places, particularly the lower looper, (the side that looks like Y's where you can't really see the middle needle thread), so I would tighten the lower looper about .5 on its dial, then test again.

I hope that this makes sense to you, you will need to test serge, and adjust one dial at a time, test again and look at the result, then maybe adjust another thread until you are getting a smooth looking seam.

Sep 05, 2011 | Sewing Machines

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When sewing with the brother serger 1034d, loops of thread stick out beyond the fabric-it is not nice and close like it's supposed to be. the settings from left to right are: 4,4,3,3. this is what my...

Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

Aug 01, 2011 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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The looper stitches are coming over the cut edge of the fabric. I have the cutting width set to WIDE.

you don't say what make and model serger this is.

However, as a rule of thumb, set the blade to widest setting, then test serge and tighten up the top and bottom looper threads to encase the cut edge neatly. So you would need to turn the dials on the two right hand knobs to a higher number, just move each dial one number at a time and test serge again.

The other possibility is that the thread is not between the tension discs properly, so check your thread paths, when you pull on the thread below the tension dial, it should feel firm to pull.

I always test serge scraps when sewing a new fabric and adjust the tensions to suit it before beginning a new project as a lightweight fabric will behave differently to a heavy fabric.

Apr 02, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

What is the correct setting for a hand rolled hem?

I do not have this brand, but thought these instructions for a 2-thread rolled edge might help -

Presser foot - Rolled Edge
Needles - Right or Left (depending on the width you want).
Stitch Width - Normal to Wider (your choice)
Stitch Length - 1 mm/left needle; 0.5 mm if using the right needle.
Differential Feed - Normal
Blade Position - Up
Right Needle Tension - Tighten
Lower Looper Tension - Normal or Loosen
2-Thread converter - engaged.

The converter may also be referred to as a subsidiary or auxiliary looper. This fits into an opening near the tip of the upper looper to "trick" the upper looper into thinking it is threaded.

The above information is from "Serge With Confidence" by Nancy Zieman. I have found this book to be more helpful than the instruction manual that came with my Babylock Imagine.

May 01, 2010 | Bernina 2500DCET

1 Answer

Trouble with my Huskylock 680D overlocker Tensions

You need to re-thread the serger.

Refer to the manual or open the front of the serger to see if the threading diagram is there.

With most sergers, you begin with raising the presser foot, then set the tensions to zero.

Begin the threading with the upper looper (curved looper), then the lower looper and the needles last.

Pull the thread under the presser foot and to the left side of the serger.

Set the tensions back to normal 4 - 5 usually.

Lower the presser foot and hold onto the threas tails as you stitch a chain. If the chain of the four threads is ok, you are ready to serge fabric.

Feb 21, 2010 | Husqvarna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Huskylock 901

Your problem may be twofold. One, the motorbelt may be too tight. Remove the sidecover and loosen the two screws on the motor. Adjust the belt tension in such a way that if you oress with your thump halfway between the motor pulley and the handwheel, the belt should give way app. 15mm.

Check if this help. If not, you need to wash your machine with white spirits to get rid of old oil and grease. Best done by a technician.

Nov 18, 2007 | Husqvarna Huskylock Computerized 910

1 Answer

What are the proper settings for a serge pro

I have a Simplicity Pro model SW432.  The sewing sample that came with it had the following tension settings: Red 3.2 yellow 2 green 3.5 blue 2 The book gives illustrations about the different problems you might have.  Changing a tension a little and trying it for the partic. fabric you are using, is usually what a person ends up doing.

Oct 12, 2007 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

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