Question about Bose Acoustimass 15 System

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How to open case of Acoustimass module

Probable lightning strike killed unit. Is there a fuse inside? How can the case be opened? Removal of two screws does not "loosen" case in any significant way.

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  • DAVMACK Sep 11, 2007

    I managed to get the case open following the steps posted by Hatebose. The end of the case slips off towards the side where the cables attach. ie. at 90 degrees to the length of the unit. It needed a stiff dunt to disengage.

    My fuse was OK too so I will have to send the lugging thing in to get fixed.....

  • milford Dec 02, 2007

    cant figure out how to open case already remove 2 knobs and 2 screws was able to get slight gap in seam but cant see or figure out anything else



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Just a bit more info...a bit more detail
Remove the two screws from the case at the back.
Sit the unit in normal upright position. Use a good torch and look at the back of the unit along the top seam where the plastic case joins the main body - there are three latches to disengage along this seam.
1. The thumbwheel which turns to the left & exposes the tab. This disengages a simple Tee'd section on the wheel which stops the case sliding down. As long as you can see the tab this is disengaged.
2 & 3. On the far left & far right of the seam are simple lever latches which must be pushed back towards the main body to allow the rear case to slide down. Push these in then the case will slide down quite easily.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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I had the same problem. Remove the "two screws", and also remove the LFE and Bass knobs on the side. There is a thumb latch at the end of the unit opposite the cable connections. You can not see it unless you use a flashlight to look in the seam of the unit. Use a screw driver to turn this until there is a plastic tab sticking out. Slide cover off. Unfortunately my fuse was good and I'll have to send the thing in for repair...

Posted on Sep 09, 2007

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Do as instructed above. Remove the 2 screws and knobs. Put the narrow section where the speakers attach in the back, over the edge of a work bench, with the main speaker body safely on the table. Spin the center tab down, as stated here and when the triangle shows in the middle, you have unlatched the center section. Now put 2 thin bladed screw drivers, on the left and right edges and press them in and toward the thin section (where the cables attach) you will hear or feel them click. NOW take the palm of your hand and pound the thin section that is hanging free DOWN and the back section will slide off allowing it to be removed.

Posted on Mar 17, 2013

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Please help how i can open the case

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

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When you say that your fridge/ white goods appliance was damaged by high voltage, we need to exactly what the voltage source was that did the deed.

If you are talking about a bigger voltage input source, from the mains suupply, then it is likely you would have had a fuse within the plug that would have blown. This should be the first thing you will check regardless of the voltage.

If however, you are telling me that your house took an in-direct or worse still a direct whack from a lightning strike, then my dear friend you have quite possibly a totally deceased appliance. For a start, such a strike could melt your plug and possibly socket. The fuse inside the plug wouldnt be a relevant factor here; because if the lightning made it from the sky to the ground, I am sure it can cross a 40mm gap within a plug. Then the lightning surge would simply travel up the power cord, knock out your gas pump, stepdown transformer and any lights or motors within the appliance. The cost of changing every part here is not worth it. You would be better off claiming on insurance or simply buying new.

there are a few ways you can investigate what has caused this, and possibly cure the fault, unless it is a lightning strike of course that is responsibe.

The first thing to do here is dismantle the mains electricity plug that is attached to the fridge. Check the small fuse inside this to see if it is functioning. You can do this in many ways. The best I find is to get a multimeter or the appropriate tester and perform a continuity test. See this link below

If the fuse is broken, then change it and repeat the test; YOU MUST replace the fuse with what the original one from the manufacturer was.

If the fuse is working, then your fault is elsewhere and you will need to perform the above tests on various components relevant to your fridge.

The worst case scenarioo is the lightning strike; and in order to identify this, you will need to do one or two simple things.

Firstly, head to your main consumer unit (fusebox) and check that all of the fuses are in the "closed" or "on" position. Open fuses indicate a power surge or a short circuuit somewhere on your supply, but relevant to your fridge. RCD circuit breakers all narrow down the searching to one localised area. You should also do this test for identification of original fault.. The same for when you as above check your main fuses.

If the fuses on the consumer unit are "open", then either replace them if you have to, or you simply either push them back in or move them to the "closed" position. Also check that the consumer unit is not damaged in any way, as you would expect from having too much electricity put through it. Fire damage, warping, blackening, discoluration, bent or broken components are all good indicators of this.

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Once you have done theseinvestigations please let me know the outcome and if it is negative, Iwill gladly advise you further.

I look forward to hearing from you soon and hopethis is the fixya for you;

Yours sincerely


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