My forks just dont have enough resistance.

you need a fly press or a bigish vise. Use alloy strips or blocks each side, one on bend point and one each side (say) 150-200mm away. Tighten vise until leg bends a little, release vise and see if returns to same point as you started. If yes then you need just a little more force. I stress that you want to straighen the bend by the smallest amount with each pump. Doing it on a hydraulic press with extreme caution would be even better. Take time to do job slowly.

Enough force applied will pop it out. But you can't grab hold and yank-you might pull apart the cv joint. Shops can use a slide hammer with an attached fork that slips around the cv joint housing. Another method is using a large screwdriver or pry bar between the axle housing and the cv joint housing. Slip it between them and place tip of bar against the cv housing. Now give it a good stiff push with your hand to pop out the joint and axle. Be careful of the aluminum axle case and the axle seal-don't break or damage anything. Just remember: enough force applied will pop out the circlip from its groove inside the axle case.

With the glow bar going and no gas smell that means you have a good circuit from control to valve and glow bar. For that glow bar to work it must change in resistance. If it is weak it won't change enough resistance to make the gas valve bi-metal open. Also the gas safety valve does not come preset and usually is bottomed out all the way for propane. You must adjust the orifice to aprox the same height as the old one to get the propah gas output for natural gas.



if your old valve did not leak and has continuity between the terminals it is fine. The ignitor/glowbar is weak. If it is dim orange that is usually a way to tell. Bumping the stove makes the bi-metal come on also is a sign of a weak glowbar


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If it is the original tire than you might have to spread the forks a little bit. If it is not the original front tire than the axle might be to long for that bike. In any case you are on the right track be careful when trying to spread the forks as to not spread to much and also don't get hurt in process. Good Luck...

You can get it out by removing the bolt(valve) in the bottom of the fork. However, this will not get it all out, so you won't know exactly how much you're putting in. Too little and it'll bottom out real easy. Too much and it'll be very stiff.

Of course, the best way is to totally disassemble and inspect the forks and set the oil amount by measuring the oil level in the fork. But, if you simply want to drain it out and replace it, catch all you drain out and put exactly that amount of new oil back in. This should get you very close, unless your forks have been leaking, then your level will be a little low.


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leaking seals usualy require replacement you will first need to remove the front wheel then the mud gaurd haveing done that losen the pinch bolts on the top & bottom tripple clampsthis will allow you to turn &pull down on the fork legs fascilitating the removal of same once removed useing a suitable receptacle ie a tub you dont mind getting oil in remove the drain plugs from the bottom of the fork legs pushing down on the staunchions will force the oil out once you are satisfied there empty you can comence dismantling remove the top caps turn them upside down this will allow the spring to be removed at this point you will either need to use the special yamaha tool to undo the staunchion from the tube assumeing you dont have said tool you can improvise by useing an extension bar and socket to hold the internal nut use a rattle gun to undo the bolt once you haveseperated the staunchion from the leg you will be able to prise the old seals out if you do not have the correct tools to press the new seals in with the staunchion & leg together you will need to use the old seal to aid you to tap the new one in if you have to use this method I advise you to place the new seal in the freezer for a while before insertion into the leg this will shrink the seal & make it easier to fit place the new seal into the top of the leg then place one of the old seals upside down on top of the new one useing a soft faced hammer tap the new seal into place useing the old seal as a drift before comenceing reasembly take care to lubricate the lip of the seals before inserting the saunchions good luck

look at the fork legs at the bottom there is a bolt on both legs its only a small bolt,,, undo this bolt and the fork oil will drain out,, to refill the forks take the top nut off the fork leg near the handel bars,,,,,,dont over fill with oil,,,and only use the proper oil,,or the seals will blow out and the forks will be very stiff

Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?

You need to assess to what level is the fork bent,if the metal on the chrome of fork is twisted then you need a new one else you will have to remove the forks completely,remove the tyre and get one of the fork tube out and go to machine shop they can use a hydrolic press to straighten it.And there you go!!Forks is back on..Please note you have to align the forks by twisting the steering..

yes replace them both to much labor to take a chance i would take it to a shop lots of little pcs that can be lost