I have a Coleman 1500 Watts power inverter that turns on (green led lits), but has no output. When I check the manual for that condition,it says that battery are not fully charged, recharge battery and reconnect again. The thing is batteries are fully charged, so it is not the cause of problem.
I opened it and found a loose cable. I soldered it (it is the cable that provides current to the red led which indicates a fault condition), and after soldering, I tested the unit and again the green led is on, red led off and still no output (red led is working perfectly after soldering).
Can anyone help me out with that?
The problem is one of the chips that run down the middle of the main board is burnt. If you check the fuses on the board you will find that at least one is blown. That chip is allowing a surge and it fries the fuses.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.
Re: Coleman 1500 power inverter has no output
I believe that the actual unit may have other problems and that you will need a schematic to aid in your troubleshooting of this issue. Once you have the schematic and a multiment you can check the voltages to see if things ar as they should be and then we can look at what is happening.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Amplifier Class AB Number of Channels 2 RMS Power (4 ohms) 120 watts x 2 channels RMS Power (2 ohms) 200 watts x 2 channels RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable Bridged RMS Power 400 watts x 1 channel Total RMS Power Output 400 watts Peak Power Output 1000 watts watts x 1 channel Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms THD at Rated RMS Power 0.1% Speaker Level Inputs No Preamp Outputs 1 pair Built-in Crossover High-pass (HP), Low-pass (LP), Full (AP) High-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 250 Hz Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 250 Hz Subsonic Filter N/A Signal-to-Noise Ratio N/A Channel Separation N/A Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB Bass/Gain Remote Yes Fan Cooled Yes Fuse Rating 20A x 2
did you set your gains and base boost also when you put sterio back in dash did you put rca's on proper outputs or the rca's could have pulled out when putting back in
you have high output and low output
are your subs getting sound to them at all any current going threw speaker wires to subs
radio settings might not be set to back end for subs this is a feature on most receivers to shut off back end subs
Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If the protect light remains on, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
400 watts delivered to 300 watt speakers the only way to do this would be to wire two subwoofers in series so that the power needed to drive them will be 600 watts to max, however this will increase your impedance on the speaker (8 ohms) load so what you can do to compensate is get an 8 ohm 600 watt resistor and put it in parallel with the speakers you will then have 4 ohms of impedance at a total capacity of 600 watts of power
In other words the amplifier won't blow these out now.
I do not reccommend that you push the Pioneer speakers over 100 watts. The jenson will already drown the car with bass through your pioneers so much you will want to turn off the bass boost when playing some low bass hip hop songs. It changes from one venue of song to another, so I just keep the jenson bass boost off and use my head unit to adjsut the sound to fit my listening prefences. I am telling you man, you will be blown away . Hook up the pioneers straight to the Channels,. do not bridge. I put Subs in my truck though. I used the Pass output to send the audio to me Jenson 2 Channel 600W amp. I drive one 10 inch enclosed JBL Class A/B Sub. I bridged the output of the 600 W amp to the 10 inch sub in my Z28. The pioneers never get drowned out. I did smoke my 2 channel Amp one time. and also took out a MTD 10inch sub. I am talk shooting flames and smoked the whole car up. I think if you bride the XA4150 to the pioneers, you will have the flaming smoke problem in no time.
are you absolutely certain your subs are in good shape? have you put a meter on them and measured the ohms as you depress the cone [causing the cone to move up and down on the pole of the magnet? do the ohms stay constant? go up to infinity[ suggesting an open] or go to zero or close to zero [ suggestting a short] both of these conditions will result in a zero or a very limited output from your amplifier, while still showing a green status light, if or when a full short or open occurs on the subs, a fault led will become lit, and whet that means is that u have fried the outputs....do a bit more testing with your vom....and good luck or try another speaker for testing purposes...