Question about Admiral Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Possibly a loose agitator, try lifting the agitator, if it lifts then it is un secure, remove the softener cap and down inside the agitator you will see the fixing bolt,
You will need to lift out the agitator to retrieve the bolt if it has come fully un done, refit the agitator and secure using a socket and long extension bar.
Posted on Apr 18, 2008
SOURCE: washer won't spin
press in clips each corner with putty knife and lift top remove screws bottom front panel slide panel down and off ..locate pump. turn washer to spin and switch on if faint hum felt at pump more than likely plugged with something if pump is running fine ck for something in drain lines..most washers i would say lid switch but on those i believe if switch was bad wouldn't aditate either ck by raising lid ..if agitates with lid raised ck lid switch if not switch ok
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
washer is 2 years old and this is 1/2 the cost I paid for it new. My
review of this product after 35 years of technical experience; GE
products (Hotpoint)aren't worth buying any longer.
The problem is the Motor. There is an electronic PC Board attached to the top of the motor and under the drip protector, which protects the PC Board. On this board, there is a green flashing light which displays trouble codes by flashing. Unplug the washer, remove the 3 screws from behind the control panel. Slowly pull the control panel toward you and slide it to the right to release. Inside the washer, there is a diagram with the trouble codes printed in the lower right hand corner. Everything else is self explained. Flashes indicate the problem and the solution is all written. Since I have the same problem and a technician, this is a defective product GE has discontinued and re-manufactured. After phoning GE the motor # Normal 0 WH20X10051 cost $252.25 to ship to my location.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
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I would try and check voltage at the overload on the motor
when in spin cycle and see if you have power there..
that should tell ya if your at least getting power from the timmer or not in the spin cycle to the motor
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