Question about Briggs & Stratton Garden

1 Answer

My power washer with a B&S 6.75 engine would not start. As I was checking the air filter I found fuel leaking. I replaced the filter carb gasket cleaned bowl and replaced that ring gasket. It starts is I put fuel in the carb but does not stay running. I am a 71 year old widow and I don't know what else to try. HELP

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

  • Expert
  • 340 Answers

Margaret have you put the filter gasket back on tight enough? It needs compression from the starter to pull the fuel through.

Posted on Aug 03, 2013

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: yard man gas push mower starts but wont stay running

Hello jusapup68:

>>Did you Soak the Carburetor when you Cleaned it?
>>If No, then the Carburetor can Still be the Problem.
>>Does the Engine Start and Quit if you Pour a Small Amount (1/4 oz of Gas into the Carburetor and Try to Start the Engine?
>>If Yes, then Soak the Carburetor Overnight.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select Shop Online Parts and Accessories. Now Select the Model Tab. Select the OEM (MTD) and Enter the Model Numbers. Now Double Click on the Model in the Results Area.
>>Have you Checked the Spark at the Plug?
>>Here is a Basic Instruction File I am in the Process of Making. It will Might Say Mower, but a Snow Thrower/Blower is Powered by the Same Type of Engine, so the Diagnostics are Basically the Same. >>***Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Engine to Locate the Cause/Cure for a Hard/Not Starting Engine. This Does Not Include a Problem with the Valves. If I Suspected the Valves are Involved, then a Separate File for the Valves will be in this E-mail. This is a File in the Making, so Any Input is Appreciated.
>>1- Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace the Plug.
>>2- If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.
>>3- If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. *On Some JD Model Mower the Engines Use an Igniter. Remove the Igniter and Coil and have your Local JD Dealer Test them for you.
>>* **On Models with Point Set, the Condenser is Bad and the Point Set and Condenser should be Replaced as a Unit. Make Sure the Point Set Plunger is Fully Extended when Setting the Point Set Gap to .020in.
>>** If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat and the Plug was Firing, then Check the Compression. If the Compression is Good, the Carburetor has Been Soaked and Cleaned and the Plug is Firing, then Check the Flywheel Key. If the Key is Damaged, then the Plug Firing is Incorrect to the Position of the Piston During the Compression (Power Stroke).
>>*** On the OHV and Some L-Head (Flat Head) Engines there is a Compression Release. The Exhaust Valve Clearance has to be Opened to .020in for the Compression Release Not to Operate; in Order to get a Correct Compression Reading.***
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 202 Answers

SOURCE: lawnmower starts but won't continue to run

if you are getting no fuel to the plug you either have a stuck float, plugged fuel line or filter. does the gas reach the carb bowl? does the mower have a fuel pump? if so the diaphram might be bad.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

moretons
  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: 7.0 hp OHV Platinum Plus engine on a power washer

If you can get the carby bowl off the main jet is up the centre sounds like its blocked there should be a model type and code on the engine cowl or on the rocker cover you can look up an exploded view on a site called pats small engines

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Honda 160cc mower engine starts and dies.

Your carbeurator is crudded up. Get a can of aerosol carbeurator cleaner at any auto parts store. Remove the air filter and spray two squirts of cleaner into the air intake. Start the engine and keep it running by squirting more carb. cleaner into the air intake. WIth a little patience you will clean your carb. and solve your problem.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

redbeard00
  • 957 Answers

SOURCE: my cub cadet tank stops running 5-20 minuts after

Yes you may need a carb kit. It is not good practice to by-pass the fuel filter. The orifice in the jet is very small.
But anyways, There Could still be a blockage inside the carb, a small leak at the manifold, or the jet is worn out.
Let me know how it goes.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Gas leaks out side of pressure washer


Your washer was sitting for a while I suspect. Check the carb and make sure it is tight to the engine. If it is then you will need to take the carb off, careful not to tear any gaskets. Then remove the fuel bowl and clean out all ports. Make sure to clean out the jet as well as I suspect the fuel is clogged in the carb and overfilling. Your needle valve is stuck open and then flooding your carb and spilling out the side of your engine. Make sure your needle valve and float can move freely before reassembling. Good luck

Jul 27, 2014 | Troy-Bilt TROY-BUILT 91215 - TROY-BUILT...

1 Answer

I get a random misfire code when my engine is idling on my 04 isuzu 3.5L...i have changed sparkplugs, check all coils, replaced fuel injectors and still get same error message...what should i check ne


you could have a vacuum leak somewhere. check the fuel filter, it may be going bad. and battery. all these will cause a random misfire code. as well as your plug wires. intake air leak, spray carb cleaner around intake manifold while engine is running if the idle changes, then you have a leak. Good-day! but check for vacuum leak first! a vacuum leak will cause engine to hesitate and lose power.

Apr 30, 2014 | 2004 Isuzu Rodeo S 3.5L V6

1 Answer

Hi! I have a Coleman Powermate 5000 maxa er plus. It wouldn't start so I check out the air filter, it was kind of dirty and I found gas in it. I cleaned my carburetor with carb cleaner even if it was clean...


The engine is pulling secondary air from the torn gasket area by the sound of it. It can't govern itself like that.
That must be fixed before any further tests !

Aug 19, 2013 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...

1 Answer

Unit runs much better and smoother with air filter off. Foam element is clean. When putting filter cover back on, unit looses power. At times the unit runs fine for up to 30 minutes and then just lloses...


hi there bcolli3

does the unit become very hard to start if warm or hot but ok if cold

have you checked for restricted muffler ?-

is fuel system working properly ?

a air leak could also cause this too ---vaccuum and pressure impulses are needed to operate carb diaphrams and pump and regulate fuel mix ,

check the manifold block/ carb gasket for a air leak, check cylinder barrell to block bolts are tight

check carb bolts are tight,

check that fuel lines are ok no holes / splits , and fuel filter is not restricted / blocked,

could possibly have worn rings too

do compression test and a spark load test
cheers pauly46

Jun 01, 2011 | Troy Bilt Tb320bv Spring Assist Blower/Vac

1 Answer

CRAFTMAN LEAF BLOWER WONT START


Fuel starvation - 'lean fuel' condition
Basic things to check:
1) spark plug
2) spark arrestor in muffler
3) fuel lines and tank filter
4) turn adjustment needles out (counterclockwise) 1/4 to 1/2 turn
Chain Saws:
5) check impulse tube and intake boot for cracks or leaks
*if all of the above are OK and/or do not improve performance then:
Remove Carburetor
6) replace gaskets/diaphragms
a) use a spray carb cleaner to clean jets, holes, and body of carb
b) fuel pump diaphragm goes against the carb body,
then the gasket towards the outside
c) metering gasket goes against the carb body,
and the diaphragm goes towards the outside

Nov 19, 2009 | Craftsman 4 Cycle Blower/Vac

1 Answer

MY MANTIS 7222 WILL NOT RUN WITHOUT THE CHOKE BEING NEARLY CLOSED. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT OR REBUILD TIME?


Two cycle engines must have a completely sealed crankcase to work properly. When the crankcase is sealed, the air to fuel ratio is set by the carb to optimize the operation of the engine. You can try the carb adjustments, I'd suggest backing out (counter clockwise) the high speed jet, if it has one. If not, it's a fixed jet and you'll have to disassemble the carb to clean it. If your engine on runs best with the choke on - the air to fuel ratio is messed. In other words, either you have a restriction in the carb preventing the engine from inhaling enough fuel and you're using the choke to get the right air to fuel mixture OR by restricting the air intake (putting the choke on) your engine is getting its air needs from some other place, such as a leaking seal or gasket in the crankcase. If you run the engine like his for long, you run the risk of burning up the cylinder and making a boat anchor out of the unit. A two cycle mechanic would do a pressure test on the crankcase to check for air leaks. If you're not able to have someone pressure check the engine, your best bet is to look for loose screws on the cylinder/crankcase - and to make sure the fuel delivery system (fuel filter in the tank, fuel line, and carb diaphragms) is in proper condition - replace the filter if dirty, fuel lines if mushy, and put in a carb kit. If that doesn't fix it, you've likely got an air leak that's going to require a mechanic with the proper test plates to find and fix.

Oct 09, 2009 | Garden

2 Answers

Engin will not stay running dies


No fuel filter but there is the air filter. Try removing the air filter and starting the mower. If this works replace the air filter. If not, then check the engine's carb. Engine was made by Tecumseh. There aren't many parts to a Tecumseh carb so replacing the few parts (gasket around bowl, float, needle and seat) isn't a lot of trouble.

Jun 13, 2009 | Garden

2 Answers

No power with a 5.4 liter


P0171 and P0174 is a lean condition in your air/fuel ratio. This is common to a dirty MAF, IAT Sensor. You can buy a can of MAF sensor cleaner at Auto Zone or any other large auto parts store and just follow the instruction on the can. IF the reading from the MAF and IAT sensor's are incorrect, the PCM is thinking that the engine is getting to much gas so it's leaning the air/fule mixture out to much and your getting the dtc code for a lean mixture in your engine. That is causing you the lack of power since your not getting the right amount of air/fuel ratio in your engine which should be 14.7:1, anything more then that will be at a lean condition and prone to knocking (detonation) or miss fire. Good luck and hope this helps. keep me posted. be glad to help

Jun 08, 2009 | 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty

1 Answer

Engine surging


sounds like it is "hunting". it is a fuel mixture issue.

May 22, 2009 | Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools

2 Answers

Troy Bilt power washer 020293- Oil in air filter


that is incorrect. if the oil has been over filled, it will saturate the filter element by way of the crankcase breather tube. it is the small plastic pipe that connects to the bottom of the filter housing. check the oil level. these machines take very little oil. approx 20 oz. if overfilled, it will leak out filter.

May 10, 2009 | Briggs & Stratton Pressure Washer...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Garden Logo

Related Topics:

41 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Briggs & Stratton Garden Experts

Phil Walker
Phil Walker

Level 3 Expert

608 Answers

John Trevino

Level 3 Expert

1388 Answers

donald boissonneault

Level 2 Expert

110 Answers

Are you a Briggs & Stratton Garden Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...